LRA install & "while I'm here" items (2 Viewers)

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New Jersey
Going to attempt installing my 24gal LRA. Shop quotes around me are high enough that I'd be willing to give it a go first.

What are some "while I'm here" items that should be replaced? 2008 with 235k miles.

Called up LRA and they recommend me to replace the charcoal canister. As well as buy an upgraded fuel pump.
Toyota has 20% off this week on 4th of July. So if necessary might be a good time to pick up the charcoal canister and other parts.
Is this the correct part # for the charcoal canister? (77740-60471)
Was told that P4070 is the upgraded fuel pump.

Anything else I should know or replace? I've watch this installation video about 3 times now. Hoping I can get this done in say.... 3 days as a driveway mechanic.
 
The 24 gallon is the one where the spare tire has to be relocated, but doesn't hang down below the frame, right?
yup the spare has to be relocated, and sits flush-ish? against the muffler. But I've also read people hit their 40gal pretty hard without issues. To me I don't tow, so 24gal is the right balance between range and additional weight.

I already have a dissent bumper with swing arms in my garage to solve the spare tire issue. But from what I understand the LRA needs to go in first, otherwise the rear bumper gets in the way in install the other way around.
 
Perfect...I'm wanting to do the same thing. How long was the lead time on the tank? Did you go with the upgraded fuel pump for the LRA? Or you actually upgrading the fuel pump on the truck?

Chris
 
Perfect...I'm wanting to do the same thing. How long was the lead time on the tank? Did you go with the upgraded fuel pump for the LRA? Or you actually upgrading the fuel pump on the truck?

Chris
I bought the tank locally off someone who had a change of plan. Called LRA and they gave me the upgraded transfer pump (P4070) They told me it pumps twice as fast and is quieter. Some other threads on mud also suggest the same thing. It's $60 so might be worth doing it just to have it. I believe it requires a little plumbing adapter/clamps (different hose nipple size?) I'll have to see when all the parts are laid out in front of me.
 
Gotcha...yeah, I've seen they can come with either pump. The higher flow is noisier, but like you said twice as fast.

Chris
 
I'd definitely upgrade the pump (I have an upgraded pump sitting on the shelf waiting for the original Facet pump to die).

I wouldn't bother with the charcoal canister if yours is in good condition. The reason to preventatively replace is just that they are hard to access once the aux tank is installed (you need to drop the LRA tank to get to it).

If they haven't upgraded the install yet, look around here for the upgrade thread. It involves a K&N vent filter, some different hose, and I added a mesh screen from a motorcycle on mine.

Definitely watch this:
 
I wouldn't bother with the charcoal canister if yours is in good condition. The reason to preventatively replace is just that they are hard to access once the aux tank is installed (you need to drop the LRA tank to get to it).
What does a bad charcoal canister even look like? Just inspect for visible cracks? I don't smell fuel in cabin, nor do I have trouble fueling up. Would like to not spend $500 on a new canister if I can avoid it, but also would like to not drop the LRA again in the near future.

If they haven't upgraded the install yet, look around here for the upgrade thread. It involves a K&N vent filter, some different hose, and I added a mesh screen from a motorcycle on mine.

Definitely watch this:
yeah I've watched that video multiple times. Had to make sure I can do it myself before even buying the tank. The K&N vent filter is already in the cart. Hoping to have everything ready before install.
 
Going to attempt installing my 24gal LRA. Shop quotes around me are high enough that I'd be willing to give it a go first.

What are some "while I'm here" items that should be replaced? 2008 with 235k miles.

Called up LRA and they recommend me to replace the charcoal canister. As well as buy an upgraded fuel pump.
Toyota has 20% off this week on 4th of July. So if necessary might be a good time to pick up the charcoal canister and other parts.
Is this the correct part # for the charcoal canister? (77740-60471)
Was told that P4070 is the upgraded fuel pump.

Anything else I should know or replace? I've watch this installation video about 3 times now. Hoping I can get this done in say.... 3 days as a driveway mechanic.
I can sell you a new in box fuel pump that I ended up not needing. I have the 12.5 gal tank and found the provided pump was fine with the following mods. The LRA wiring diagram does not use a relay for the pump their is far to much voltage drop between the small wires and internal circuits in the switch. My wiring set up almost doubled the pumping rate. The other mod was to mount the pump on rubber vibration isolators, I purchased for the Carter, but need up using on the smaller facet .. sound level is below ambient road noise except when caveating at empty tank. I powered pump with 12 AWG wire , the Apexus switch is using 20 AWG wire and the wire supplied by LRA is in between even though it's claimed as 3 mm2 or (12 gauge). Place a rubber sheet between tank and body I used 1/8" x 4" x 10 ft 60A hardness sheet from Rubber Sheet Warehouse.com. x001x8NCS1. I also added heat shield material between tank and exhaust.



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Going to attempt installing my 24gal LRA. Shop quotes around me are high enough that I'd be willing to give it a go first.

What are some "while I'm here" items that should be replaced? 2008 with 235k miles.

Called up LRA and they recommend me to replace the charcoal canister. As well as buy an upgraded fuel pump.
Toyota has 20% off this week on 4th of July. So if necessary might be a good time to pick up the charcoal canister and other parts.
Is this the correct part # for the charcoal canister? (77740-60471)
Was told that P4070 is the upgraded fuel pump.

Anything else I should know or replace? I've watch this installation video about 3 times now. Hoping I can get this done in say.... 3 days as a driveway mechanic.
Having had multiple charcoal canister issues requiring replacement with my LRA, I would NOT spend the money to get a new one prior to install.
 
Having had multiple charcoal canister issues requiring replacement with my LRA, I would NOT spend the money to get a new one prior to install.
do you mean you had issue with the canister after LRA, and end up having to swap out the LRA?
Wouldn't that case mean swapping it during installation makes life easier. Or are you saying I might have to replace the canister after even if I put in a new one.
 
But I've also read people hit their 40gal pretty hard without issues.
We had a skid welded to the belly of our 40 gallon and rhino lined the whole thing. Just a few weeks ago we did alpine loop and got hung up on one of the rougher switchbacks. I reversed to get a better approach and my tow mount paid the price. After we were back at camp it was clear that the mount prevent me from running the tank over whatever it was I wrecked the mount on.

Idk how hard I’d want to hit that tank, I’d prefer to avoid contact all together.
 
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do you mean you had issue with the canister after LRA, and end up having to swap out the LRA?
Wouldn't that case mean swapping it during installation makes life easier. Or are you saying I might have to replace the canister after even if I put in a new one.
Original Charcoal canister went to s*** a year after LRA install. Never topped off, plumbing was good.

Fiasco was in getting a shop that wasn’t making issues worse with dropping and replacing the tank.

I’d hold off on the canister unless you’re getting CEL codes. P0441 iirc.

Budbuilt made a skid for my 40 gallon. If you reach out, they’ve got all they need to get yours buttoned up.
 
There is no need to replace the charcoal canister until it's causing problems. And when it does, it's a very straightforward part to change.
 
There is no need to replace the charcoal canister until it's causing problems. And when it does, it's a very straightforward part to change.
you'd think it'd be straightforward....
 
I’d hold off on the canister unless you’re getting CEL codes. P0441 iirc.
You see I was getting P0441 intermittently last month. I replaced the gas cap and it never came back on. But I'm also not sure if that was the culprit. Did replacing the canister solve your CEL?

you'd think it'd be straightforward....
I'd imagine with the LRA already on it's not as simple as "dropping" the tank. All the plumbing probably has to go. Basically reinstalling the LRA again.

Which is my dilemma.

Reason to preemptively change canister
1.) Being high mileage at 235k.
2.) Already have random records of P0441.
3.) Not having to deal with extra labor in the near future

Reason NOT to preemptively change canister
1.) It's $500+
2.) Could be a waste of money, and needing to spend another $500 in the future if things goes wrong.
 
You see I was getting P0441 intermittently last month. I replaced the gas cap and it never came back on. But I'm also not sure if that was the culprit. Did replacing the canister solve your CEL?


I'd imagine with the LRA already on it's not as simple as "dropping" the tank. All the plumbing probably has to go. Basically reinstalling the LRA again.

Which is my dilemma.

Reason to preemptively change canister
1.) Being high mileage at 235k.
2.) Already have random records of P0441.
3.) Not having to deal with extra labor in the near future

Reason NOT to preemptively change canister
1.) It's $500+
2.) Could be a waste of money, and needing to spend another $500 in the future if things goes wrong.
P2420 must be the one for the charcoal canister. I had quite the ordeal chasing that bugger down. Ultimately a new charcoal canister eliminated the CEL.

I tried all sorts of other parts cannon things including lubing the gas cap o ring thinking that was the issue. Vacuum switching valves, etc. none of those eliminated my codes. The canister being replaced did. Old one was full of fuel somehow.

Even with the sales, the canister is expensive imo. I would not change it if you’re not currently having the p2420 code. But again, that’s my experience and humble suggestion.

Even with the stupid stuff I’ve had to deal with, my LRA tank is my second favorite mod so far. I wouldn’t change it aside from lessons learned about who to take it to vs who to avoid, but experience matters. I have zero range anxiety and can go wherever I d@mn well please with even somewhat full aux tank knowing it’s in reserve should I need it. It’s been a while, but I have a thread involving this whole ordeal if you want to check it out. It was written while these issues and events were still fresh so likely more detailed than my response here. HTH
 
Even with the sales, the canister is expensive imo. I would not change it if you’re not currently having the p2420 code. But again, that’s my experience and humble suggestion.
yeah $500+ is not cheap especially when I just spent a few hundred replacing all fluids. Seems like a either I bite the $500 now, or hope no problem in the future after installing the LRA. Did the P2420 put you in limp mode? When I had P0441 the car put me in limp mode for a while and that was very inconvenient until I figure out it was the gas cap.
 
I strongly recommend changing the canister. I had to replave mine 6 years into the LRA and it was a pain. It did last 6 years, but $500 to replace something with easy access even if it only adds a year or two would be worth it
 
We had a skid welded to the belly of our 40 gallon and rhino lined the whole thing. Just a few weeks ago we did alpine loop and got hung up on one of the rougher switchbacks. I reversed to get a better approach and my tow mount paid the price. After we were back at camp it was clear that the mount prevent me from running the tank over whatever it was I wrecked the mount on.

Idk how hard I’d want to hit that tank, I’d prefer to avoid contact all together.
Isn’t the inside of the tank coated or aluminumized? I have a 24 gallon tank and really wanted to weld an extra plate on the bottom of it for protection, but then was concerned that I’d screw up the aluminizing inside the tank so I didn’t do it. I’ve run several years now with the 24 gallon and wheeled it hard. I’ve beat the snot out of my differential and RLCA mounts and the arms themselves, scraped my Dissent bumper and smashed my exhaust pipe. I haven’t put a scratch on the tank. Im sure if I had a 40, it would be pretty banged up so I think a skid in that case is wise.
 

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