Lower door patches: tips, tricks, pitfalls?? (1 Viewer)

[81fj40]

I just ordered two lower patch panels from Real Steel for the front doors to replace the Bondo/rust bonanza created by the PO.
Looking for any pics, tips, tricks or other thoughts on process and procedures for doing this job right.
Searching turned up minimal info, but maybe not searching the right terms.

Anyway, any help is much appreciated.
Cheers!

 

[3_puppies]

be cautious of heat, they will warp and be wavy

 

[Living in the Past]

I have a door still in Australia with some rust on the right side door. I do not know if a bottom door patch is needed but one became available locate for half price. Once I get the door will let who ever does the repair decide which route to go. Bottom line seen enough threads on here of warped wavey door skins after the repair to let an expert do the job. From reading on here unlike a lot of other repairs that can be fixed but with door skins your pretty much screwed once it's been done wrong. Used to be able to braze on HVAC units to where the joints looked like they were done in the factory. It took years to do that. Besides not having any desire to learn to weld on body panels I do not have much need for it. Job done right is something proud of. A wavey door skins is something you will see every time you drive your cruiser.

I may try working a repair on this hard top side. But that's only because the panel was free and have a couple damaged beyond repair panels to get the pieces from. 10/81+ doors are hard to find in this country, especially with vent windows

 

[lumberjack]

I have replaced a few bottoms over the years and it can be very time consuming and tedious to get it right. I build half doors and fix bottoms when a set come in needing repair. You can see some of my work in instagram @ ljackhalfdoors. I have also run into problems with replacement panels not lining up right and having to cut and adjust the new panel to fit, which is really annoying when you paid for a panel to fit. I do like to weld a piece of L stock or square tubing to the door to keep it from warping as I go. You have to keep watching the door for warp and take care of it right away. I made the fatal mistake on my first door and it warped in a good half inch and I had to cut the weld completely out and start over to fix it.

 

[zerotreedelta]

As mentioned, be prepared for patch panels to be, er, "not quite fitting". I got three different panels from RealSteel - bib, cowl, and rear doors, and all three were off in some manner. Nothing insurmountable, but some oddities for going through the work of production.

I've documented quite a bit of the metalwork (hardtop, windshield, rear doors), albeit I got new front doors vs repairing. Might be some info for you from the other repairs though - front doors would be similar, albeit would require going even slower on the welding part.
Build Thread ~ Build Series (YT)

@Living in the Past , you might be interested in the hardtop one...rebuilding that rear corner and inner flange is a bit interesting, albeit doable.

 

[brian]

The real steel door panels are not even close...I ended going with ccot panels.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Does seem like some teething pains there with RealSteel - I only really wanted a couple of the inner corners for the rear doors, but the outer skins were a bit off, with the drivers door even having a completely incorrect bend. It was set for pinch welds on three sides like the pax door, but the drivers door has that step-lip in the center for the doors to meet. Definitely strange...so not too surprised on the front door panels.

 

[Jetlander]

I have replaced a few bottoms over the years and it can be very time consuming and tedious to get it right. I build half doors and fix bottoms when a set come in needing repair. You can see some of my work in instagram @ ljackhalfdoors. I have also run into problems with replacement panels not lining up right and having to cut and adjust the new panel to fit, which is really annoying when you paid for a panel to fit. I do like to weld a piece of L stock or square tubing to the door to keep it from warping as I go. You have to keep watching the door for warp and take care of it right away. I made the fatal mistake on my first door and it warped in a good half inch and I had to cut the weld completely out and start over to fix it.

I’m not on Instagram so is it possible to post pictures here of your L stock setup? This is my next welding project.

 

[zerotreedelta]

I wonder if doing a lap flange with a panel flanger vs buttweld across the flat portion would also help stiffen it up a bit - would give tiny bit of structure, at least in theory.

 

[lumberjack]

So if the black line is my seam, I will tach weld the L stock or square tubing just above the seam. You still have to go slow and stitch weld and let the panel cool down. Plan to work on something else at the same time to give the panels time to cool down to the touch between welding runs. also tap each weld with a hammer while it's still hot to relieve some of the stress.

 

[lumberjack]

I wonder if doing a lap flange with a panel flanger vs buttweld across the flat portion would also help stiffen it up a bit - would give tiny bit of structure, at least in theory.

Thanks!! Another reason for me to buy another tool! Might have to try this some time.

 

[zerotreedelta]

They are pretty handy, although I didn't happen to have any panels that I could use it on for the FJ40...most were either curved or too tight.

 

[FJDonny]

I had the same issue with my doors. Ordered the same parts from Real Steel. Heat is an issue. Will warp the door. Here are some pics of the work.

 

[brian]

the flanger is the way to go.

 

[middlecalf]

@brian do you spot weld then fill the seam? Or weld all the way along?

Only issue I’d have is the overlapping metal which has been the source of all my rotten original metal and seams, and the inside seam can’t be seam sealed or welded closed. But it’s a trade off with that and heat warping I guess.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Typically it's spot welded.

Why wouldn't you be able to run some seam sealer on the inner? You should have access to in inside from the holes in the door, no?

 

[brian]

weld the whole way, one spot at a time.

 

[jjenloe]

So if the black line is my seam, I will tach weld the L stock or square tubing just above the seam. You still have to go slow and stitch weld and let the panel cool down. Plan to work on something else at the same time to give the panels time to cool down to the touch between welding runs. also tap each weld with a hammer while it's still hot to relieve some of the stress.

View attachment 2692496

I like this idea. My doors are warped like hell and will most likely need to do something like this to get it sorted.

 

[middlecalf]

No room to reach in with a seam sealer tube or gun. Painting required one of those extension tube thingys.

 

[brian]

weld through primer