Lower Control Arms - Replacement (2 Viewers)

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I don't see much information on replacing the lower control arms on a GX460 (some 470 stuff).

My LCA bushings are getting pretty bad, dry rotted and tearing which is starting to cause a steering wheel shake at around 55 MPH and has caused some uneven tire wear. Research shows replacing the bushings as an option, but not much of a fun one. Add in the mileage and desire to refresh the lower ball joints while I'm in there, and it'd seem smarter to just go ahead and replace the entire LCA assembly.

MyLParts has the genuine Lexus LCAs for $306 per side (plus 10% off with code CL5). Called the local Toyota dealership and got a quote for $2,100 to replace the LCAs and do an alignment. Decided it's too easy to DIY to justify that cost, even though I know I will regret not just paying someone else one of these days.

While I'm in there, I plan to replace:

- LCAs w/ ball joints
- Outer tie rod ends
- inside/outside sway/kdss bar bushings
- optional is your alignment cams, nuts and bolts if yours are potentially froze up in the old bushings and need cut off


Anything else I'm missing that might be a smart idea to replace/address while in there? Anyone thinking they'd want a basic DIY for this?
 
Are there any after market options that may be cheaper and offer better performance e.g. urethane bushings, etc.?
 
Are there any after market options that may be cheaper and offer better performance e.g. urethane bushings, etc.?

There probably are cheaper, but I don’t want to have to do it again anytime soon so I don’t mind paying up. Concerning urethane bushings: I don’t need an improvement over the stock rubber ones and actually prefer them over super stiff ones, I want comfort over precision feel, plus I don’t wanna deal with squeaks, pressing custom bushings in, etc.
 
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I'm currently in the process of replacing the LCAs (and the entire rest of the suspension....) in my GX470. I went with Moog LCAs ($160/ea on Rock Auto), but if you want to do it just once I'd recommend OEM Lexus. I'm planning to upgrade my old OEM LCAs with Whiteline poly bushings in the future if/when the Moogs wear out.

Your alignment cams will almost certainly be froze. All four of mine where. I was able to salvage the actual bolts, nuts, and eccentric washers but had to cut out the cams. I used a cheap Harbor Freight sawzall I've had for years and a four-pack of 24 tpi metal cutting blades. I used one blade per bolt and it took around 45 minutes per LCA to cut them out. Oiling the blades seemed to help but they still got really hot and were trashed at the end of each cam. You can get replacement cams for $15-30 from Toyota, which I'm picking up tonight and will be installing tomorrow. I am going to slather them in antisieze and hope they don't seize again.

So this is a moderate DIY job in my opinion. Bolting/unbolting is easy but sawzalling stuff complicates things. You'll also need a 250 ft/lb torque wrench for re-torqueing the connection between the spindle and the LCA (on top of the ball joint).
 
Haven't seen any aftermarket KDSS lower control arm. SuperPro are supposed to work on one for GX460/5th gen with KDSS, but it's not out yet. $306 for OEM is really good price. Depending on where you live, the bolt might be stuck to the bushing and might need to be cut.
 
LCA replacement is pretty straightforward. Can be frustrating depending on how bad the bolts have seized. If you have not personally experienced working with the KDSS swaybar, I recommend you invite a buddy who has. Its a pain the first time around. Definitely have new alignment cams, bolts, and fresh sawzall blades handy. As others have mentioned, apply anti seize to everything so they don't seize again. I have used aftermarket control arms (Moog) for the GX and many many other vehicles, and always end up replacing them again with OEM. If you plan on keeping your GX for a while, I recommend sticking with OEM. I purchased LCAs from McGeorge Toyota in Virginia.... comes with new bushings and ball joint installed. Paid $298 each shipped to NJ.

I wouldn't touch tie rods unless your having an issue.

KDSS bushing replacement is a good idea.
 
I don't expect an issue with the cams being seized, but plan to pick some up at the local dealership just in case, that way I can easily return them if I don't use them. My alignment guy said they weren't froze up last year when he did an alignment.

Why would you suggest not to touch the tie rod ends, just economically speaking? I typically replace them on any vehicle I have with over 100K miles due to how crucial they are and often cheap to replace, just time it with new shocks/other work (which I neglected to do with the lift install on my GX) and the following alignment and you're good to go, though they are a surprising $45 each side for the GX.

For off road vehicles specifically, I like to replace them and store one for a spare when traveling remotely. Have seen many an issue with snapped/bent tie rods off road, and one spare is small and easy to carry.
 
I don't expect an issue with the cams being seized, but plan to pick some up at the local dealership just in case, that way I can easily return them if I don't use them. My alignment guy said they weren't froze up last year when he did an alignment.

Why would you suggest not to touch the tie rod ends, just economically speaking? I typically replace them on any vehicle I have with over 100K miles due to how crucial they are and often cheap to replace, just time it with new shocks/other work (which I neglected to do with the lift install on my GX) and the following alignment and you're good to go, though they are a surprising $45 each side for the GX.

For off road vehicles specifically, I like to replace them and store one for a spare when traveling remotely. Have seen many an issue with snapped/bent tie rods off road, and one spare is small and easy to carry.
You’re right they are cheap and it wouldn’t hurt to replace them. I was brought up to believe if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Many of my vehicles, past and present have gone easily over 200k miles without ever replacing tie rods.
+1 to keeping a spare while wheeling
 
DIYed the LCAs today, not too bad of a job. Took about 4 hours total. Worse part is fighting the KDSS sway bar back into its correct place after disconnecting it, that and separating the lower ball joint from its lower mount.


44CA6B46-EC21-4590-B084-E514A03466F3.jpeg



I didn’t use the new alignment cams, as mine weren’t frozen, so I have some of those for sale if someone needs them (all OEM directly from Lexus dealership). $140 for the entire setup new, $100 shipped.

BCA22C71-91CB-4DD7-9CAA-E9CB04B42D40.jpeg



I also found out my welder tank was empty…on a Sunday…so didn’t get to install the Total Chaos alignment gussets, and don’t plan to redo it just to install them, so have a full set of those for sale as well. $145 shipped new, will do $100 shipped. Already welded and painted on the backside, ready to install.

6018EE24-DCE1-4D9A-B0E8-87C000FFAA07.jpeg
0B513E1A-5156-4D9A-B429-A0847BBBC373.jpeg
 
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Here’s the alignment cams and bolts breakdown:

8A874729-D589-4C56-8186-CC1A0C18566D.jpeg
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1CB0AE20-8183-4530-9DF9-CF6148278A68.jpeg


If anyone wants my old LCAs to rebuild ahead of time for this job, you’re welcome to them for free (pay shipping).

They’re in good shape, normal wear and tear but no notable corrosion, just worn bushings and cut ball joints, so those two things would need replaced.
 
They are probably Chinese arms, given the price, and I'm betting they came from the same factory that made my Moog arms. My Chinese Moog arms have been fine. However, if I were to do it over, I would have just paid $600 for OEM arms vs. $300 for the Chinese ones, just to have the peace of mind that they'll last another 10 years and not fail catastrophically on the trail or road.
 
They are probably Chinese arms, given the price, and I'm betting they came from the same factory that made my Moog arms. My Chinese Moog arms have been fine. However, if I were to do it over, I would have just paid $600 for OEM arms vs. $300 for the Chinese ones, just to have the peace of mind that they'll last another 10 years and not fail catastrophically on the trail or road.
Yeah, that's too cheap lower a arms, hell, that's too cheap for upper a-arms new.
 
Yeah, that's too cheap lower a arms, hell, that's too cheap for upper a-arms new.
Control arms aren't rocket science. The going rate for aftermarket UCA's is just plain silly. It's a freaking ball joint, 2 bushings and sleeves, and some metal. We are being hosed by Ironman, SPC, TC, OME, and all the "premium" UCA vendors. They have to be clearing $500-$600 per pair in pure profit. 🤮

edit: ^^^ says the guy running Freedom OR UCA's... :lol:

edit #2: I guess what I'm saying is MSRP is a poor indicator of "quality" on a simple part like this. Kind of like winches, and people having decent experiences with Badlands, etc.

edit #3: In fact, it's kind of baffling that the Freedom OR UCA costs more than the LCA, and the LCA comes with cam bolts, bushings, ball joints, and KDSS mount and a lot more metal...
 
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Based on the amount of suspenion travel that is lost on IFS with any lift over 2", I'd say it's more than just the UCA people are getting hosed on....
 
Control arms aren't rocket science. The going rate for aftermarket UCA's is just plain silly. It's a freaking ball joint, 2 bushings and sleeves, and some metal. We are being hosed by Ironman, SPC, TC, OME, and all the "premium" UCA vendors. They have to be clearing $500-$600 per pair in pure profit. 🤮

edit: ^^^ says the guy running Freedom OR UCA's... :lol:

edit #2: I guess what I'm saying is MSRP is a poor indicator of "quality" on a simple part like this. Kind of like winches, and people having decent experiences with Badlands, etc.

edit #3: In fact, it's kind of baffling that the Freedom OR UCA costs more than the LCA, and the LCA comes with cam bolts, bushings, ball joints, and KDSS mount and a lot more metal...
My $165 Moog LCA's have been just fine so far, but in hindsight considering the OEM Toyota is not that much more expensive, I wish I would have gone that route as to have no question about longevity/quality. Since the Freedom LCA's are probably made in the same Chinese factory as the Moog (and likely other) aftermarket arms, they are likely cheaper being a volume item, compared to the UCA's that are likely made in smaller quantities.

Cheap stuff is always a mix bag. I can also tell you my Moog rear UCA's and LCAs (all of $120 for all 4) have been great so far, but my Moog tie rod ends are junk and have crappy boots. Just like HF tools, some are a good buy, others are not. In the future I'm going to just buy OEM Toyota or another true name brand, for critical/hard-to-replace parts, but use cheap stuff elsewhere where it is easy to replace or does not matter that much.
 

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