Lower control arm replace the bushings and service or replace the whole arm? (1 Viewer)

[yosshaa]

Tried a bit of searching but didn't see anything specific to this in hits 30,000 hits.

I have a 2007 LC (AHC it works and I like it... until it breaks) with almost 250,000 miles, Just ordered nitro upper control arms. Looks like the lower control arms need to be done too.

Should I replace with OEM lowers at $330 each side or should I try to press in new bushings and add a new boot? I ain't afraid of the press or some hard work but honestly if I am going to spend 5 hours trying to recondition the old one and get the new bushings in versus just swapping on factory new... I could be inclined to watch playoff football and pay the extra rupee.


If you serviced or replaced your front lower control arms, tell me how it went for you.
Also, it doesn't seem like there are many quality aftermarket options... is this one of those stick with OEM and be done with it things?

 

[Patassa]

I think when I looked into this in the past, the consensus was not worth the headache to try and service. The one bushing (no. 2?) that's in the frame is a PITA enough as it is (sawzall and chisel was the ticket), without trying to replace the ones built into the control arm itself. I just replaced the control arms and the bushing in the frame.

 

[hoser]

Yes, there is only one bushing and one ball joint. The ball joint is only available aftermarket. The rear bushing is mounted on the frame side.

Front Lower Control Arm Romoval/Replacement

It's time to tackle my worn out suspension, specifically the UCA and LCA bushings and ball joints on my 1998 LC. I'm trying to locate a "How to/step-by-step" thread with photos/illustrations on "Front Lower Control Arm Romoval/Replacement". I also plan on replacing CV axle assemblies and tie rod...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[saucebox]

Absolutely yes to your last question—go OEM. The bushing work is enough of a PITA that nothing's saved by going cheap.

 

[Bisho]

Well, I think you answered your own question with your motivation level
You'r looking at about $75 per side for bushings and ball joints on the control arms - there are lots of threads here to describe the job. You are going to have to do the rear bushing yourself one way or the other (on the frame). I think the time difference is about 30-45 minutes per side, so your call if that is worth $500.

 

[yosshaa]

f so even buying new I still have to press out and replace the frame side bushing?

 

[TheForger]

f so even buying new I still have to press out and replace the frame side bushing?

Correct

 

[Agent T]

I can say from experience...go with new OEM lower control arms and don't mess with rebuilding the old ones. I spent too many hours and dollars chasing down a vibration issue which was ultimately corrected by replacing my recently rebuilt lower control arms with new OEM ones. Unfortunately, I had replaced uppers arms rebuild lower arms, install new rack, shocks, globes, springs and bushings all at the same time, so I had several possibilities to consider for my highway speed wobble.

 

[Helipilot]

I recently replaced both upper and lower arms, shocks, hubs and bearings, and all the bits and pieces required on my '07 with 160,000 on the clock. Bought all new OEM parts. Took two days but it went smooth after machining a bushing removal tool out of heavy wall tubing. I will replace the bushings in the old arms later and keep them as spares. You won't regret going new just from the time, labor and frustration factors. Good luck!!!

 

[2001LC]

If lower control arm in good condition. You can save on parts cost by restoring it. I let condition dictate. But new LCA are sweet!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I rebuilt both front uppers and both front lowers, with new bushings and ball joints. If I had to do it all over again, I would rebuild the lowers (including replacing the No. 2 frame bushing) without question, but I would not rebuild the uppers again. The lowers were much easier to do, whereas the bushings in the uppers are an absolute nightmare to get out.

 

[awesomeissquid]

+1 for rebuild lowers. I did the same as @JunkCrzr89 and would never rebuild the uppers again.

 

[flintknapper]

I think when rebuilding the uppers....the difficulty factor depends on how you choose to do it and with what tools you have or are willing to buy/rent/borrow. Also, the environment in which the repair is performed.

IF you don't have anything but a hammer, chisel and the parking garage space at your apartment....then I'd say don't even attempt this.

IF you have a garage/decent driveway a decent set of tools and some patience....then its doable without too much fuss, though you won't be eager to do AGAIN anytime soon.

IF you have a parts washer, a floor press (preferably 20 ton) a C-press, a bench mounted vice, lots of hand tools and a few cold beers then it isn't much of job.

Lots of different ways to do the uppers...but here is how I did mine without much difficulty:

• Wipe/wash the part off so you aren't handling a dirty/greasy/oily part. (IF you live in the rust belt and your part is significantly rusted...skip all of this and replace it).
• Place the Upper Control Arm (UCA) in a vice and with a hack saw remove the outer cap on both sides. This is in preparation to using a holesaw (deep 1-5/8") to core out the rubber bushing.

Use a deep holesaw mounted in a 1/2" drill to core out the rubber bushing. This will allow you to use your hacksaw to cut a single kerf through the 'shell' of the bushing.

Continued Below:

 

[flintknapper]

Remove the blade from your hacksaw, insert it through the shell of the bushing, reattach to your hacksaw handle and saw a single kerf all way through the shell of the bushing. STOP when you are all the way through and don't start cutting into the control arm bore.

Once you've done that....please note there is a hole in the control arm bore....USE IT. Take the largest flat point punch that will fit through the hole and with a hammer tap the bushing shell inward so that it deforms and relieves the 'press fit'.

Provided your bushing hasn't rust welded itself to the bore of the Control Arm, you can now tap it out with a drift punch/other. Even if it is rusted to the bore....you've still won the battle at this point. Just use whatever is needed to get between the shell and the bore wall and it will come out.

Now.... thoroughly clean the bores of the control arm. Use a press (I recommend a floor press) to remove and install the new ball joint. Lightly grease the shell of the new bushings and press them in. They go IN a lot easier than they came out.

Pat yourself on the back and go have that cold beer, DONE.......!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

and a few cold beers then it isn't much of job.

When doing the upper bushings, I drank 18 beers and caught my driveway on fire with my torch. I think the beers made it worse.

 

[silvarshooter]

Since you're not afraid of hard work the obvious vote is for rebuilding the lowers with OEM bushings and 555 BJs. If you make a press for the frame bushing you can use the same on the arm bushing. Order some acme rod for your press McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/rods/acme-lead-screws-and-nuts/. Not all circumstances are equal but I probably had an extra hour or two compared to just swapping arms, including repainting the arms.

 

[Bisho]

I found using a hydraulic jack between the arms was much easier than the press I built for the frame bushing.

 

[nissanh]

The hydraulic jack might expand the opening in the control arm. If you use this methond, mount the control arm in a press so that it will not expand under the pressure of the hydraulic jack.

 

[nissanh]

I got ready to do the front suspension. Ordered 4 upper bushings from partsouq. Realized I am dealing with a landcruiser so I want to make sure it is reliable above all. Toyota does not sell ball joints so I got all 4 OEm new control arms again from partsouq.

I am in the market for a 200. Found few good deals but backed out after hearing they have Slee and other aftermarket "upgrades" I trust nothing else when it comes to Toyota built quality, especially the LC.

 

[Bisho]

The hydraulic jack might expand the opening in the control arm. If you use this methond, mount the control arm in a press so that it will not expand under the pressure of the hydraulic jack.

Using heat, it didn’t take a tremendous amount of force to get the bushing moving, but getting the force in a straight vector was a challenge without the jack. My compression press kept sliding off and getting the force at an angle, as well as marring the outer sleeve when it did so. I had no issues getting it all back together afterwards.