Lou's [it only needs a clutch] 1976 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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There are quite a few variables invoked. One is to make sure you get the right ratio steering box. I think it's 4 turn.

In your car it will free up that space on your frame where the steering box is so close to the motor.

I think the parts pile we got for PMc has a collapsible steering column for Saginaw.
 
yeah, i actually saw a few good pics in the 40 section, i was shocked....they mentioned that the 4.5 turn box with the 4 bolt mount was the way to go....and that the 2.5 was tooo sketchy....

one was a 350 with the ram horn manifolds as well. still makes a VERY tight fit......because the angle is moved slightly inside the front of the frame all the way up to the bumper area......

thanks....
 
Scout box locates the more powerful box (versus a mini truck) on the inner frame and the pitman arm goes forward.

If you are not planning on rock crawling much or locking the front a Mini truck is the easiest route and it uses your existing road and stuff.

One advantage of Saginaw is that it gets rid of one link in the steering and evey link adds slop.
 
I'll see if I can find something but Nolen described it pretty well. If you are not going to crawl this truck or go much over 33" tires or so the mini truck conversion is the simplest and cleanest conversion. After about 35" tires the mini truck set up starts to rain n out of steam. Either of the Saginaw conversions address this power issue but one puts the box in front of the front crossmember with a rear facing arm while the other places the steering box behind the front crossmember with a forward throw. I think it is cleaner and less subject to damage there but either will work just fine. Scout boxes can be a bit hard to find, however.
 
does anyone happen to have some front turn lamp gaskets laying around?

I am having some grounding issues with my running lamps and figured they were loose and that the gasket is a help to hold the 2 piece buckets in there together.....
 
ok....

have another issue.....

The Gob has been running pretty good for about a week, no alternator charging....just hooked up the "white/blue" ammeter line on the back of the alternator....

been driven to gas station, and all the way to canton to the muffler shop. did fine......brakes are a bit soft still...but battery obviously wasnt being charged.

figured out my alternator charging issue with some help from pat h. and basically it's charging now....

here's the problem, and it's probably not related...but would like ideas or info.....


I drove my son to school on friday and headed down old canton road to jackson. caught every light on the way there and was good to go. i was coming up the hill on old canton just north of northside dr/highland village area and it fell flat on its face....

wouldnt run properly...basically felt like it was running on 2-3 cyl/ stalling under load...i putted up the hill and coasted through the red light into the chevron parking lot.

left it there. they piddled with it a bit while i was at work. starts fine. idles fine. drive .5 mile now and it wants to quit.....

fuel is fine, or so i think. pump works. fuel filter free.....plugs not fouled.....

it "feels" like its timing related....ish...

may try the old distributor in the am.....


any thoughts?
 
Fuel is most likely. Try pouring a bit of gas down the carb when it starts running rough and see if it picks up. What's the set-up on the ignition side? Old school coil? Might be breaking down. Wires/cap/rotor?
 
Bossman said:
Fuel is most likely. Try pouring a bit of gas down the carb when it starts running rough and see if it picks up. What's the set-up on the ignition side? Old school coil? Might be breaking down. Wires/cap/rotor?
Click to expand...

it would be hard to do that, since it only does it under load. but it doesn't feel like fuel starving, it feels like a bad miss/ multiple misfires...

it's a chevy 350 HEI distributor.....
 
So it happens when it's warm and under load?

Spark plug wires baked by exhaust?
Fuel lines too close to exhaust?
Other heat related issue?
 
77TLCFJ40 said:
So it happens when it's warm and under load?

Spark plug wires baked by exhaust?
Fuel lines too close to exhaust?
Other heat related issue?
Click to expand...

fuel lines seem ok. fuel pump and plug wires are all new.

I added a see through filter under the hood right by the carb just to see, and it is flowing fine.....

hell, the HEI distributor is new, but the coil may be causing the problem. I am about to replace it with an ACCEL hi power coil.
 
@cruiseroutfit got me squared away and on the right track. i went ham and ordered everything. pump, pulley, belt in hand. bracket ordered. conversion kit ordered.

should have everything but the final pittman arm and tie rod by friday.

cruiser outfitters want me to take measurements on those after install/mock up so they can get the right stuff the first time. i like the sound of that!!!....

there's nothing more maddening than following someone's lead and realizing you will need something else later, or the part that worked for them doesnt work for you.
 
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