Loose wheel bearing (1 Viewer)

[krich97]

Got a flat, and the only good part is it got me off my lazy (busy is really more the case lately) butt and I checked the front wheel - it seems that I have a loose bearing. The wheel will move from 6 to 12 O'clock (I couldn't tell if it was able to move from 3 to 9 but less so if it could). The leak is not patcheable and is not slow - I have to replace the tire, in fact maybe all 4 (or 5) due to differences now in tread height. The spare is old but unused. The other tires have quite a bit less tread left.

I don't know how long it has been loose but I suspect it could have been as long as a couple of months. I do not have time to fix it properlly right now and will need the vehicle in operation on Thursday at the latest and prefereably for part of tomarrow. I also suspect the bearing may be loose because of the knuckle service that was done when I purchased the vehicle a year ago (payed for by PO warantee). - Is this likely? and would the mechanic (a dealer) be responsible?

The most important question however is whether or not it is dangerous to drive in its current condition and if when I replace the tire it would be ok to simply have the tire shop snug down the bearing until I can get it looked at properly?

Thanks to all,

Kevin

 

[e9999]

probably would take less time to open it up and retighten the nut, if nothing else, than to go to a shop etc
E

 

[Rookie2]

Seems like 6-12 movement and no 3-9 movement would indicate something is loose in the trunion bearing axis. The first thing I would check immediately is the knuckle arm studs. These have been known to back out, particularly after a knuckle service. If so, this is very dangerous to be driving on. Also double check the bolts aren't coming out on the top retainer plate that holds the top trunion bearing. After that, I think it would be time to take a look see at the trunion bearings.

Others please chime in if I'm missing something here.


Rookie2

 

[krich97]

E - I agree - but I have to take it to the tire shop anyway and if they weren't gonna charge me much that is exactly what I was going to ask them to do. Then later take a proper look at it - Toyota quotes $346 (ooouch!) to repack the inner and outer bearings. My concern was if driving it for a day was in fact dangerous (to the truck or its passengers) - my recollection also was that the nut was very large and I am not sure I have a socket larger than 26 or 28 mm -

 

[Rookie2]

If the hub nut were loose, you would feel the same amount of movement across any radial axis... 6-12, 3-9, 10-4 etc... If the star washer tabs were properly turned down onto both hub nuts, then they would not be able back off.

R2

 

[krich97]

Rookie 2 - I am confused as to what is technically the knuckle arm stud? Is it above or below the knuckle , and am I just attempting to see if they can be tightened?

Thanks

 

[landtoy80]

<If the star washer tabs were properly turned down onto both hub nuts, then they would not be able back off.>

This is not ture.
At least with the aftermarket star washer. I can set the bearing correctly per the FSM and then back off the nuts within the little slop that the star washer gives in the grove of the spindle.
That little backing off of the nuts/star wahser can/will give a lose wheel bearing.

I haven't seen a OEM star washer to see how much play it gives in the grove of the spindle.

What I now do, as I had a loose bearing due to what I just wrote, is back off on the nuts/star washer after I have locked the tabs after I have set the bearings. I then check for play and to see if its in spech. with the spring scale.

One other thing that could cause a loose bearing is a worn/groved flat washer. Mine had deep groves in them. As the washer spins the grove might get deeper.

 

[e9999]

E - I agree - but I have to take it to the tire shop anyway and if they weren't gonna charge me much that is exactly what I was going to ask them to do. Then later take a proper look at it - Toyota quotes $346 (ooouch!) to repack the inner and outer bearings. My concern was if driving it for a day was in fact dangerous (to the truck or its passengers) - my recollection also was that the nut was very large and I am not sure I have a socket larger than 26 or 28 mm -

yes, that is true, you need a 54mm socket.
I'm not saying it would be a good idea to limit yourself to tightening the nut, but if that's all you were going to do anyway, then it's pretty easy to DIY


E

 

[e9999]

Seems like 6-12 movement and no 3-9 movement would indicate something is loose in the trunion bearing axis. The first thing I would check immediately is the knuckle arm studs. These have been known to back out, particularly after a knuckle service. If so, this is very dangerous to be driving on. Also double check the bolts aren't coming out on the top retainer plate that holds the top trunion bearing. After that, I think it would be time to take a look see at the trunion bearings.

Others please chime in if I'm missing something here.


Rookie2

I had some slight play when holding at 6 and 12, none at 3 / 9

Nut etc was a bit loose maybe - thrust washer scored/worn a bit

After repacking and resetting all, no more play at all

E

 

[landtank]

The weight of the tire will often hide the 9~3 movement.

 

[e9999]

The weight of the tire will often hide the 9~3 movement.

uh?
seems like it would be the other way around...

I can see that the steering slop might mask the 9/3, though

E

 

[landtank]

When checking the 12~6 position you lift the weight off the bearings, not so when checking the 3~9.

 

[Rookie2]

Rookie 2 - I am confused as to what is technically the knuckle arm stud? Is it above or below the knuckle , and am I just attempting to see if they can be tightened?

Thanks

The knuckle arm is what bolts to the bottom of the steering knuckle. The back end of the knuckle arm is attached to the tie rod. There are four studs that anchor into the bottom of the steering knuckle that are used to attach the knuckle arm with. These studs in several cases have been known to back out. If they have, you will see a space or gap between the knuckle arm and steering knuckle. This is likely not the problem, but since all you have to do is look, it's always a good thing to check periodically after a knuckle job.

Landtoy80 - One tab from the OEM star washer is bent over the thrust washer and another is bent over the hub nut. Since the star washer has a lug on the inside radius that locks into the groove of the spindle, I don't see how either can move from the set position if the tabs are tightly pinching each of the nuts that are on both sides of the star washer.


Rookie2

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Good call on checking the steering arm studs and nuts. When they fail, you have an unsteerable 3 ton truck. Assuming they are tight, it's a minor 15 minute job to reset the wheel bearing preload. Just do it, and report back. In my opinion it will not hurt to drive around a day or so without fixing it assuming your diagnosis of a loose wheel bearing is correct, but then if it were me, I would have adjusted the wheel bearing already because of my natural paranoia.

 

[Doc]

You can dig in there and tighten that retaining nut for pretty cheap. Plus, you get to buy a new socket!

I had the same problem on my 93, I tightened that nut and then drove the truck for 3 weeks with no problems until the parts from Dan arrived for a full knuckle job.

 

[landtoy80]

<Landtoy80 - One tab from the OEM star washer is bent over the thrust washer and another is bent over the hub nut. Since the star washer has a lug on the inside radius that locks into the groove of the spindle, I don't see how either can move from the set position if the tabs are tightly pinching each of the nuts that are on both sides of the star washer.>

Unless the OEM star washer has a bigger lug that locks into the grove than the afermarket the nuts/star washer has a little play in the grove.

Anyone have a pic of a OEM and aftermarket starwasher?

 

[Rookie2]

I wouldn't say that there is absolutely zero play between the lug and the groove, but it very minimal, probably less than a half a mm. Definitely not enough to result in a loose condition IMO.


Rookie2

 

[landtoy80]

Not enough to make it loose but enough to make it out of spech.
Over time it might wear the bearings enough to be loose, maybe.

 

[krich97]

Here is an update - today was crazy. It seems not to be the knuckle arm studs and rather the bearing, which I won't be able to address until Friday. When I took in the truck for tires, the only good part of the day, (OT Bridgestone dueler A/T revo 285/75 - ride is comfortable, looks much better than stock michelins, but for looks the 305/70's would have been better still - and I swear cruzer sits higher now even though it should not have made that much difference) - I got a good deal on the tires ($155 a piece plus mount and balance), but the head mechanic got sick and had to go to the Dr. I couldn't leave the truck their to wait and see if he would come back so the bearing will have to wait.
I had my wife who stayed home with our sick kids take me to pick up the truck and her car died in the parking lot of the tire store - overheating and running a bit funny - the rest of the day was crazy and involved visits to the kids Dr's office (pink eye and bronchitis) and a mechanic for the wife's car and . . .

Anyway I will update on the bearing condition etc when I can - but I have to say the new tires are really cool - I keep looking at them and when I tell my wife - "hey sweety, look at my new tires!" she just shakes her head and rolls her eyes - I dont think she feels the love . . .

 

[krich97]

Ok so the left side bearing was a bit loose. I did not find any play when it was tightened, so hopefully that was it. The grease was still good and things looked ok inside (no discoloration or obvious damage) so a tightening was all it got. Also new rear brake pads - there was only 2mm left! I still see a little of what appears to be slight positive camber on the front wheels (previous thread) vs the rear to I am going to have an alignment shop do a laser check to see I need glasses or if I need to fix something.

Thanks for the input -

K