- Thread starter
- #21
So you don't torque the outer nut to 47 ft lbs, you leave it at 20 ft-lbs?
Loose Wheel Bearing. Reuse it??
- Thread starter landtoy80
- Start date
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landtank said:
Yes, as I posted both nuts on a side at 20.
One other thinbg to be conscience about is the locking washer. That needs to be flattened out as good as possible. Torqueing against a washer that is not flat will allow the nuts to seem to loosen when the washer does flatten from the forces of driving on the wheel.
landtank said:
Exactly, that is why I include new washers (90215-42025) in the set-ups I ship out. They are relatively cheap and definitely flat.
- Thread starter
- #25
Dan How much is/are the bearings and washer and what brand are they?
I just ordered this stuff from d-man a bit ago. The washers are really cheap, like less than a buck kind of cheap if I remember right.
He has or can get both Timkins and Koyo bearings, the Timkins are a bit cheaper than the Koyo's.
He has or can get both Timkins and Koyo bearings, the Timkins are a bit cheaper than the Koyo's.
- Thread starter
- #27
I tried both the 48 in/lbs and the 20 ft/lbs and I got about 11 to 12 lbs on the scale.
- Thread starter
- #28
I found a page that shows good and bad bearings.
http://www.theautoist.com/wheel_bearing_maintenance.htm
http://www.theautoist.com/wheel_bearing_maintenance.htm
- Thread starter
- #29
< I repeat this until I can maintain at least 18 ftlbs after spinning the wheel.>
What do you mean by 18 ft-lbs?
What do you mean by 18 ft-lbs?
FWIW the OEM bearings are Koyos.
I torque the nut to 20 ft-lbs and then spin the hub 4~5 revolutions each way and then recheck the torque. The first few times the torque drops from squeezing the grease out. Once I recheck the torque and it is at least 18 ft-lbs then I leave it alone and place on the locking washer and the outer nut.
Timkins were also used as original equipment in later production 80's. they are significantly cheaper than Koyos as well.
- Thread starter
- #33
I have noticed they when you torque the lock nut to 47ft/lbs that the adjusting nut turns a little bit. The lock warsher is there to keep the adjusting nut from turning when torqueing the lock nut.
But when you get to 47ft/bls, the adjusting nut turns a little bit. If you take a hammer and a screwdriver, you can move the adjusting nut back. The lock nut and the lock washer will move too.
The little notch on the warsher keeps the nuts from turning. But there is a little play with the locking warsher and spindle.
What I did this time was too back off the adjusting nut and checked the resistance. I don't know if it makes any difference but I am sure that over some time the nut and washer will move to this position .
When I adjusted the wheel bearings last time, I had about 6 lbs on the scale. When the nuts moved back maybe it moved enough to have loose wheel bearings.
But when you get to 47ft/bls, the adjusting nut turns a little bit. If you take a hammer and a screwdriver, you can move the adjusting nut back. The lock nut and the lock washer will move too.
The little notch on the warsher keeps the nuts from turning. But there is a little play with the locking warsher and spindle.
What I did this time was too back off the adjusting nut and checked the resistance. I don't know if it makes any difference but I am sure that over some time the nut and washer will move to this position .
When I adjusted the wheel bearings last time, I had about 6 lbs on the scale. When the nuts moved back maybe it moved enough to have loose wheel bearings.
- Thread starter
- #34
Junk, You should add this or the http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/birf-repack.php to the FA? page as the older (at least the 94FSM) doesn't have the complete instructions on adjusting the wheel bearings.
