Looking for recommendations on Suspension setup that won't beat us up.

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I'm running a 295/7018 and have minor rubbing on the KDSS bar with a +18mm offset wheel

Arm side or other side? And KDSS relocated or no? Did those tires rub the mud flap or front fender liner?

@HROD79 Note that some people have variances and can have more or less rub than others with the same setup. Based on how close my 285/70R17s are to everything with a 50mm offset, I couldn’t even run a 285/75R17 and have it work at all when twisted up off-road. I don’t want to compromise and give up mud flaps or relocate KDSS though.
 
Arm side or other side? And KDSS relocated or no? Did those tires rub the mud flap or front fender liner?

@HROD79 Note that some people have variances and can have more or less rub than others with the same setup. Based on how close my 285/70R17s are to everything with a 50mm offset, I couldn’t even run a 285/75R17 and have it work at all when twisted up off-road. I don’t want to compromise and give up mud flaps or relocate KDSS though.
Both sides at full lock. It is barely noticeable unless the suspension is flexed. Mudflaps are removed, and fender liners heavily modified, but fenders and bumper are not cut. No rubbing on the body at all
 
I'm running a 295/7018 and have minor rubbing on the KDSS bar with a +18mm offset wheel
Is this the same offset as the stock wheels with 1.25” spidertrax spacers. In my case I have the heritage wheels which I’m assuming is the exact offset as stock LC wheels.
 
Is this the same offset as the stock wheels with 1.25” spidertrax spacers. In my case I have the heritage wheels which I’m assuming is the exact offset as stock LC wheels.
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Just convert and add. No mystery to it. Heritage wheels i think are 58mm?
 
Is this the same offset as the stock wheels with 1.25” spidertrax spacers. In my case I have the heritage wheels which I’m assuming is the exact offset as stock LC wheels.

+18mm offset is 6.25mm wider than the stock Cruiser wheels with Spidertrax 1.25" spacers, which is a 0.246" difference on each wheel, so 1/2" wider overall. The Heritage wheels are +60mm offset so that would make them a +28.25mm offset with the 1.25" wheel spacers; therefore, a +18mm offset wheel would be 0.40" wider making them 0.80" wider overall. You'd notice that difference visually.
 
Fuel Anza wheels I have are not available anymore but I believe they are 18x9 and +20mm offset
 
+18mm offset is 6.25mm wider than the stock Cruiser wheels with Spidertrax 1.25" spacers, which is a 0.246" difference on each wheel, so 1/2" wider overall. The Heritage wheels are +60mm offset so that would make them a +28.25mm offset with the 1.25" wheel spacers; therefore, a +18mm offset wheel would be 0.40" wider making them 0.80" wider overall. You'd notice that difference visually.
I will eventually put on 295/70/18 when my current tires need replacing. More then anything else, just want to make sure they fit with a little plastic finessing and not have to do a bmc as my last 200 needed for 35”s.
 
Fuel Anza wheels I have are not available anymore but I believe they are 18x9 and +20mm offset
I had 18” Method racing +18 offset (no spacers) wrapped in 35” KO2 if you want to go up. Just need to BMC the front and it will slightly rub the kdss at full turn but not enough to cause issue.
 
I will eventually put on 295/70/18 when my current tires need replacing. More then anything else, just want to make sure they fit with a little plastic finessing and not have to do a bmc as my last 200 needed for 35”s.

I'll likely stick to no larger than a 285/70/18, but we will see.
 
Now that 295/70/18 becomes more prevalent, or even larger 33s, it's easy to be drawn down the bigger is better...

I think it's worthwhile to consider that this will effect gearing, braking, and handling. (Post 16'+ cruisers are well setup with better gearing and bigger brakes already). Impacts perhaps more than some are prepared for. Fortunately, there's readily available solutions, and should be weighed with the cascade of mods that should be done to fully enjoy the larger tire sizes. When done holistically, the 200-series becomes a new level of monster.

Gearing

Brakes
 
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Now that 295/70/18 becomes more prevalent, or even larger 33s, it's easy to be drawn down the bigger is better...

I think it's worthwhile to consider that this will effect gearing, braking, and handling for the pre-16 cruisers (16'+ cruisers are well setup with better gearing and bigger brakes). Perhaps more than some are prepared for. Fortunately, there's some readily available solutions, and should be weighed with the cascade of mods that should be done to fully enjoy the larger tire sizes. When done holistically, the 200-series becomes a whole new monster.

Gearing

Brakes
Seconded.
 
Now that 295/70/18 becomes more prevalent, or even larger 33s, it's easy to be drawn down the bigger is better...

I think it's worthwhile to consider that this will effect gearing, braking, and handling. (Post 16'+ cruisers are well setup with better gearing and bigger brakes already). Impacts perhaps more than some are prepared for. Fortunately, there's readily available solutions, and should be weighed with the cascade of mods that should be done to fully enjoy the larger tire sizes. When done holistically, the 200-series becomes a new level of monster.

Gearing

Brakes
Spot on. I have 4.88 gears on order but I have been waiting since last May.
 
Nope.

KDSS relocation kit. That will give you a full inch of clearance on the KDSS arm.
 
Do you think an spc uca will make a difference in avoiding KDSS rub?
Yes, but then the tires will rub on the rear fender and/or body mount.
Nope.

KDSS relocation kit. That will give you a full inch of clearance on the KDSS arm.
Agreed. While additional KDSS clearance is possible by using aftermarket upper control arms, that should not be the goal in installing them. If they are adjusted to gain clearance on the KDSS bar you will loose clearance in the rear. They should be set for achieving a correct alignment and keeping the wheel centered in the wheel opening. If additional clearance is needed a KDSS relocation kit can be installed, but those will pull your links to a bad angle and wear bushings pre-maturely. That being said I am running the Blackhawk full kit and now have zero rub. I’m willing to replace links regularly if needed.
 
Agreed. While additional KDSS clearance is possible by using aftermarket upper control arms, that should not be the goal in installing them. If they are adjusted to gain clearance on the KDSS bar you will loose clearance in the rear. They should be set for achieving a correct alignment and keeping the wheel centered in the wheel opening. If additional clearance is needed a KDSS relocation kit can be installed, but those will pull your links to a bad angle and wear bushings pre-maturely. That being said I am running the Blackhawk full kit and now have zero rub. I’m willing to replace links regularly if needed.
Yep. UCA should be used to help set the alignment. While you can use the UCA to push the tires back to avoid KDSS rub doing so means you're compromising the alignment, which affects handling.

Slightly smaller tire size and lower wheel offset will reduce or eliminate KDSS rubbing as well. i.e. a 35" KO2 is slightly smaller than a 35" Toyo, and a +18 offset wheel is further from the KDSS arm than a +60 OEM wheel

Honestly if you're happy with the rest of the setup, just spend the $100 on the relo kit. It's an extra $50 an maybe an hour of work to mount the sway bar links outside the LCA cradle to deal with the steeper angle that the relo kit creates on the end link bushings, if you're concerned. (I was, and I posted details somewhere around here about it along with the parts list)
 

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