Looking for purchasing advice

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The term rust has be repaired is a red flag. They probably did a bondo over rust repair. If its not running, how do you know any of the parts are good? It could have a spun bearing in the motor, and a ton of other unknown problems. I would give no more than 1000 bucks for that. That is a basket case with a ton of work needed. If you are up for spending a lot of money and time, get it. I always recommend just saving up a bunch of money and buying a nice one.
 
I'd say $2000. But I'm not a fan of the V8. There is a lot of work to be done there. That's if you want to keep the V8. Does the motor turn over? How long has it not run? I wouldn't go over $2500 for sure.
 
You are almost always money ahead to save $ longer and get a nicer one like whitestripe said. So don't get Cruiser fever and offer too much. I would say this is a truck you can really low ball on. It doesn't even run. No head light. Mis matched body. Interior is a mess. And rust. Its no gem even if it is an FJ40.
 
What are you looking for in a Landcruiser? If your looking to wheel it, then offer em $2000 and see where it goes, but your going to put some Money into that and never get it back.

If you want a "Landcruiser", post what you want plenty of folks here on mud will be happy to help you find one that is running!

Good luck, keep us posted
 
Thanks guys. I'm looking for a project that I can work on with my son and teach him some life skills. Do not want to spend more than $3000 on a decent one that can be a rolling restoration. Ideal would be an FJ40 with good body but in need of mechanical/cosmetic work (not severe rot). Would prefer one that running (even if very rough) or non-running if problems are known. Manual transmission so that I can teach my son to drive a stick shift. I plan to just drive locally around town without top during summers (my mid-life crisis vehicle... :-)
 
350s are cheap if you need to buy a runner.

For a manual, common options are Sm420/465(granny low for wheeling), Nv4500 (5 speed low gear and OD), Toyota 4 speed (smooth shifting, no granny gear).

An option I'd consider would be putting in the drivetrain from a newer 4X4, and putting in a custom centered rear diff rather than Adaptors to the t-Case.
 
If you buy, and if you remove the auto tranny, I'd like to be the first in line to purchase the used tranny-to-transfer case adapter. Further, if you buy and don't mind some customization, I've got an FJ40 front grille panel that someone put in dual headlamps, one on top the other, actually looks like a fairly professional install, rectangular lamps, nice chrome bezels around each pair of duals, actually got at a swap meet. I'm thinking 100 bucks for the grille panel with dual head lamps (plus probably some outrageous freight charge) ???
 
Went and took a look at it. There's some significant rust on the body mount points and rear skirt. Looks like some took sheet metal and "glued" (not welded) panels over the rot in the floor and body panels without cutting it out and then sprayed everything with black paint.

Did not try to start the engine but it looked much better in person than I thought it would.

Top was in pretty rough shape. Roll cage was missing too.

Too much body re-work needed for my comfort level.
 
save your money and buy the best you can afford ... they ALL need work, no matter how good they are or seem ... let's face it they're all over 30 years old (those sold in North America) ... personally, I'd rather see the warts then I've got an idea what it will cost to fix up ... I'm a bit of a traditionalist so factory drivetrain etc works for me, but I understand the attraction to the gm small block ... take your time, you'll find one ... they are out there ... hopefully one you can enjoy while you're fixing it up ... welcome to Mud ...
 
Thanks guys. I'm looking for a project that I can work on with my son and teach him some life skills. Do not want to spend more than $3000 on a decent one that can be a rolling restoration. Ideal would be an FJ40 with good body but in need of mechanical/cosmetic work (not severe rot). Would prefer one that running (even if very rough) or non-running if problems are known. Manual transmission so that I can teach my son to drive a stick shift. I plan to just drive locally around town without top during summers (my mid-life crisis vehicle... :)

Good ! the first life skill to learn your son is to try to find a good FJ40 for under $3000 ;)


:cheers:
 
I'd pass on that one. x2 on the "rust repaired" warning.
A quick spray paint job is worse than having the original rust.
The fact that the trim is painted, hood latches, etc. indicates to me that no decent prep work was done on the body.
You wouldn't be able to trust the quality of any of it as a base for any new body work and it is hard to remove for a fresh start.
The black paint has already flaked off of the running boards.

Look for one with the best body you can find and with the trim, lights, dash knobs, window hardware, emblems.
All of the little trim parts are more expensive and harder to get than the mechanical stuff.
The 4 missing park turn lamp assemblies for example are about $200 worth of parts.

If you find one for $3K expect to add another 3K to get it roadworthy.
 
Thanks again for the replies. Yeah - I know $3K is optimistic. But there's always hope...
 
There is a much more original running 1977 FJ40 for sale in Maryland for $3999. It has a lot of rust too, but at least it runs and has the original drivetrain, top, and seats. I would consider that one over the one above. Here's the link:

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/cto/5081239386.html
 

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