Looking for last minute input on my lift and 305 tires plans...

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619TOY

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Just trying to dot my I’s and cross my T’s before I pull any triggers, mostly looking for input on the 305 tires which hardly anyone is running, so I have very little to go off of. In case I missed a post somewhere, I’d love to see and hear from anyone running 305’s since this is only in my head at this point. Most threads referencing them seem to die out prior to providing any concrete information…


 305/65-18 BFG KO2’s or Nitto G2’s

o Closest AT tires to 33x12.50x18’s (33 ½ x 12 ¼) and at the lighter end of the weight spectrum for similar sizes, 55-62 pounds each.

o I know I could save myself some grief by going with a narrower tire

o No matter how hard I try, I’m just not sold on the 275/70-18’s or 285/65-18’s that are so popular, they just look a little too small for the 200 to me

o Not ready for anything bigger than 33’s right now, maybe when these are worn out we’ll go with some 35’s

 ICON 2.5 adjustable shocks front and rear

o Looks like one of the most versatile shocks available right now and I’ve come to grips with having them rebuilt from time to time…

o Seem to be a popular choice for running 35’s, which we may very well do someday

 ICON front upper control arms

o Pricey but really high quality looking and sealed joints

o Not sure if these will eliminate any rubbing issues???

 OME 2722 rear springs

o Seems to be the most popular and accessible rear spring for ≈2” of lift

 Diff drop

o Looks like Toytec makes one for Tundras or from aMiR904 (who seems to be having a difficult time keeping up with demand)?

 Spidertrax 1.25” wheel spacers

o REALLY don’t want aftermarket wheels so these are probable going to be necessary. I honestly like the looks and simplicity of factory wheels and pretty much haven’t seen any aftermarket wheels I like well enough to justify the cost and hassle.

o I really don’t want to have to use the spacers either, but it may be a necessary evil

o Other than the slight added stress on the bearings, I’ve run spacers on my 80 for nearly ten years of HARD off-roading with no issues, so I don’t have any reliability concerns with them

 Slee KDSS relocation brackets

o Put some feelers out to see what the likelihood of needing these will be, sounds like they may not be (and that they’re nearly impossible to install:mad:)…

I really don’t want any metal to tire rubbing at all, but I’m open to trimming or “massaging” fender liners and mud flaps if necessary:D. My 4Runner rubs the factory UCA’s at full lock and while I don’t like it, I’ve accepted it. I definitely don’t want that on the 200 though…
 
Steve, besides the 305s (which I know nothing about), you seem to have a good list there.

As to the Icons (they are great, don't get me wrong), have you compared them to offerings from King, Fox, or the new OMEs?

If I were getting into the racing shock game, I must say I really like the specs and looks of the BP51s.
 
I run a 295/65 R18 which is a 33.1" x 11.8" with an OME lift. You wont need the KDSS relocation bracket for that size tire if you are using wheel spacers.

You will need to remove the front mudflap, possibly a little bit of trimming/removal of the rear flap.
 
As to the Icons (they are great, don't get me wrong), have you compared them to offerings from King, Fox, or the new OMEs?

No test drives, that's for sure. Just reviews, PM conversations and friends that have them. Honestly it's being driven as much by perks as anything.
 
Nice List - here's my advice

I have 35's & didn't have to trim any of my rear mud flaps - I went the Icon route (2.5 CVCD's all 4 corners) great shocks, ability to adjust, you immediately feel the difference in the adjustments.
The Kings are nice and have good reviews
ARB's - Just too new for me to purchase if I was in the market - but that's me
Fox - leave those to mountain bikes and power sport vehicles not 6000+lbs rigs.
Remember - King and Icon already have a shock rebuild program in place when that time comes.

UCA's - think about this - save the $900 extra dollars on the Icon UCA's (which I agree are pretty @ $1400) and go with the SPC's UCA's (which are $500). My truck is GIANT and I still cant see the UCA's from the side (up in there). The bling wont show.

The 2722's are fine and better when you have some weight in the rear. I just keep a fat girl in the back at all times - (we all love them)

thanks
 
619Toy, I have been running 305/65r18 Falken wildpeaks on stock wheels on my tundra for a little over a year. On the truck I had SPC upper arms and had to run wheel spacers to clear. In preparation to sell the truck I took off the SPC arms and put the stockers back on. The 305s clear no problem. Just for shiggles I threw one tundra wheel on the cruiser. the lift in the pic is simulated with a floor jack.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/about-to-pull-the-trigger-on-my-lift.861798/#post-9784263

Please post a build thread when you pull the trigger, will be interesting to compare notes on install and actual lift.
For my cruiser I have gathered Icon 2.5 coilovers and rear shocks, OME 2722s and working on picking up a set of Rock Warrior wheels. They are lighter and 10mm less offset (easier to clear 12" tires).
 
You wont need the KDSS relocation bracket for that size tire if you are using wheel spacers.

Thanks for the confirmation!!

UCA's - think about this - save the $900 extra dollars on the Icon UCA's (which I agree are pretty @ $1400) and go with the SPC's UCA's (which are $500). My truck is GIANT and I still cant see the UCA's from the side (up in there). The bling wont show.

Truth be told, I'm completely anti-bling, to the point that I power coated or re-powder coated every part on my 80 lift low gloss black...
Supposedly the Icon's have more range of motion than some of the other aftermarket arms, plus I'm getting a bit of a hook up. Hopefully I don't regret the added expense.

The 2722's are fine and better when you have some weight in the rear. I just keep a fat girl in the back at all times - (we all love them) thanks

Oh man, I don't have a fat girl. Honestly I'd consider the TJM's too at 3/4" lift if anyone stocked them or there were any reviews.

619Toy, I have been running 305/65r18 Falken wildpeaks on stock wheels on my tundra for a little over a year. On the truck I had SPC upper arms and had to run wheel spacers to clear. In preparation to sell the truck I took off the SPC arms and put the stockers back on. The 305s clear no problem. Just for shiggles I threw one tundra wheel on the cruiser. the lift in the pic is simulated with a floor jack.

Are the Tundra wheels the same width and offset? I didn't think they were?

Please post a build thread when you pull the trigger, will be interesting to compare notes on install and actual lift.

Will do! Unfortunately Icon doesn't stock everything, so we're probably ≈3 weeks out:crybaby:
 
The only fat girl I have is my rig - ha ha

that's what is should call her - if I ordered one of the Toyota "name your car" stickers and named it fat girl it wouldn't be a week before I had my rig keyed up - guaranteed.
 
I believe the Tundra and Landcruiser stock wheels are the same, 18x8 60mm offset. my plan "B" if I don't get the rock warriors is 2014 TRD 18s with 285/75/18 Toyo ATIIs. I'm going to take a stab at BJowett's tundra front suspension conversion, so I was thinking the extra 10mm of tuck might be needed...also one of the big drivers for leaning toward tall/skinny tires.
 
I'm on the edge of my seat to see that installation (Tundra front end parts on LC) come to completion.
 
The wife's car is in the shop and she's been driving the cruiser for the past two weeks....and loving it. I'm Chomping at the bit to get going on it. Planning on lots of pics, as this will be the second LC/Tundra set up (after Brian's).
 

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