Looking for Diagnostic Help (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 26, 2023
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Location
Issaquah, WA
Hi Gang,

Having some recent problems with my ride and trying to figure this one out. 1999 LC100, daily driver (love this vehicle, 2 of my kids have learned to drive in this thing), ~340k miles (267k when I bought it 3 years ago). All stock. Since I've had it, I've had done the following replacements: radiator, CV axles, rack and pinion steering gear, heater-T's and water pump/timing bell, all swapped out. Along the way I've only had really 1 issue, last year the engine starting running really rough and the coil packs were swapped out. Also, there is a rear main seal leak that will have to get repaired at some point....it does leak, but try to keep up with it, at least for now.

My issue most recently happened suddenly and has persisted. In November 2024, I was out running errands and the water pump went out (at a stoplight, steam came out, had to tow vehicle). I never tried to re-start, just pushed it to side while I waited on the tow. Got the vehicle back, and it had this weird ticking thing while it's cold, almost completely went away when warm. Took it back and the shop said they had re-installed the intake manifold incorrectly. Got it back, and the ticking persisted (like skipping a beat or something, hard to explain).

Took it back the last time, several weeks ago now, and the shop did dome diagnostics and found that #7 cylinder was not firing, and replaced that coil pack (I thought this was weird, as they were just replaced last year). I waited until that night to pick up the vehicle, so I could make sure it was cold when I started it. Low and behold, the ticking/skipping a beat thing is still there. Better...but still there, this is the current status as I write this.

Just to explain a little more on the ticking thing: When it's cold (deep cold), I start it up and it high idles for a minute, then rpm's start to come down a little. This is where the engine starts skipping (I know this is not a good explanation), but it's as if the engine is skipping a beat, you can feel it while sitting still in the car. Then when I put it in drive/reverse it's very sluggish at low rpm's. And when building rpm's (accelerating) it sometimes will "chug". Honestly, since I've driven this vehicle for 3 years now, I know what "good" feels like when the engine is properly running, and something feels off. This all mostly goes away when the engine gets up to temp, but you can still feel something.

No dash lights come on, no codes (I've taken it to O-Reilly's to use their OBD reader), so I'm at a loss to figure this out. The shop told me, that if they were to continue to diagnose the issue, that they would start with removing and cleaning the intake manifold. I just don't have the funds to let it sit in a shop for endless diagnostics.

Anybody have any good ideas on what I should be checking? Maybe there is a diagnostic checklist for things like this? For your knowledge, I'm not a mechanic, but I do have some tools and can be handy around an engine bay if needed. Many thanks in advance for your knowledge and ideas.

Regards,
Greg
 
"Ticking" sounds like the symptom of a loose spark plug. Discussed here many times in a few threads.

No links for you but suggest google search as Google provides better hits.
 
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"Ticking" sounds like the symptom of a loose spark plug. Discussed here many times in a few threads.

No links for you but suggest google search as Google provides better hits.
Interesting, in addition to the coil pack they replaced a few weeks ago, they mentioned the technician found a loose spark plug as well. I'll definitely go check all of them. And I'll go look for that thread. Thanks for the info.
 
Removed intake manifold to install water pump? Thats sus.

Whats parts are you using for all these jobs? Toyota or whatever the shop has laying around?
 
Removed intake manifold to install water pump? Thats sus.

Whats parts are you using for all these jobs? Toyota or whatever the shop has laying around?
Would have to
Removed intake manifold to install water pump? Thats sus.

Whats parts are you using for all these jobs? Toyota or whatever the shop has laying around?
Yea, no idea why. I've personally never removed/replaced a water pump, but I know it's on the front, not the top of the engine. Not sure on the parts, probably what gets ordered from the local parts supplier (O'Reillys, etc). When the coil packs were replaced last year, I do know they used Denso for those.
 
Hi folks, wanted to follow-up this post to see if anybody had any good ideas. Just so happens the alternator went out a couple of days after my original post. On the tester at O'Reilly's it was charging the battery at 12v, and it's my daily so I went ahead and purchased the Optima 100 amp (it was in stock). Will probably keep this original ad get it rebuilt at some point. Figured I'd go ahead and do the sparkplugs while I was at it as well.

Pro tip: At all costs try to avoid pulling off the coil pack boot in the cylinder. I was on the last cylinder at like 11pm last night when it happened. Holy bejesus I would not wish that on anybody. Took me about 4 hours of pulling that thing out bit my bit with longnose pliers and a pick tool I had. Some seem to be very sticky, and it seemed to help if I just kept constant pressure and twisted slowly as it was coming out.

Drove it around today, and it runs really good, much better than before. Only thing is there is still some hesitation, but only under load while warming up. Like while accelerating, just after it shifts gears and the rpm's drop, this is when it happens. Kind of hesitates or chugs. It did it a few times while warming up, then went away. Not sure, but maybe it is one of the coil packs.

I'm not super familiar with the capabilities of testing devices. Is there some place I can take it see which one of the cylinders is misfiring? (I'm assuming this is a misfire since the spark plugs helped, but maybe that is not right). The testers at Napa or O'Reilly's don't do this. Do most shops have this capability? Any thoughts?

Thanks

sparkplug4.jpg


sparkplug3.jpg


sparkplug2.jpg


sparkplug1.jpg


Coil pack boot.jpg
 
@Greg1977

To answer your first question, yes, there is a source for diagnostic procedures. The Toyota factory service manual (the one the dealerships use) is in the Resources forum for free download. You do not need to be a mechanic to use it. Some of the diagnostic procedures are lengthy; don't try to find a you tube quick alternative - there aren't any.

You can buy a bluetooth enabled OBDII code reader anywhere (including Amazon and O'Reilly's) that enable you to read most of the diagnostic trouble codes, with your phone. The codes are clearly explained in the service manual.
If you use it twice, it'll pay for the gas you use to get to a parts store to have them read for you. Get the cheapest one they have; they're all the same and you do not need a diagnostic tool that will display the codes for you; Torque or any other OBDII phone app will do that for you. Unless you have an IPhone, and then you have problems I can't help you with.

I can't say this is your problem for certain, but if you use aftermarket parts, your truck will not perform the way it did from the factory. It just won't and don't let anyone try to tell you differently. This isn't a C10 pickup truck. Having said that, I'd tend to believe even a crappy parts store coil pack would last a year, but maybe not. I know they don't perform as well as the OEM parts, even when they're new.

Many online parts suppliers will sell you OEM parts at discounted prices; PartSouq and Amayama are two. There are dealerships in the states, Olathe in KS and Ourisman in VA for example, that sell at discounted prices too, but they're more expensive than the non-Toyota affiliated parts resellers are. Lexus parts has links to Lexus dealerships that sell online and also sell at discounted prices.

Your absolute best bet is to find a human parts retailer and work with him to have your needs met. This requires more work on your part, but in the end, you'll save money and know your truck more intimately.

If you really want this truck to last, stop using aftermarket parts and find a reputable Land Cruiser shop to work on it. Or, start buying tools and do the work yourself. Most of it really isn't that hard.

Lastly, and this is trivial, but those plugs look like they have a huge gap.
 
@Greg1977

To answer your first question, yes, there is a source for diagnostic procedures. The Toyota factory service manual (the one the dealerships use) is in the Resources forum for free download. You do not need to be a mechanic to use it. Some of the diagnostic procedures are lengthy; don't try to find a you tube quick alternative - there aren't any.

You can buy a bluetooth enabled OBDII code reader anywhere (including Amazon and O'Reilly's) that enable you to read most of the diagnostic trouble codes, with your phone. The codes are clearly explained in the service manual.
If you use it twice, it'll pay for the gas you use to get to a parts store to have them read for you. Get the cheapest one they have; they're all the same and you do not need a diagnostic tool that will display the codes for you; Torque or any other OBDII phone app will do that for you. Unless you have an IPhone, and then you have problems I can't help you with.

I can't say this is your problem for certain, but if you use aftermarket parts, your truck will not perform the way it did from the factory. It just won't and don't let anyone try to tell you differently. This isn't a C10 pickup truck. Having said that, I'd tend to believe even a crappy parts store coil pack would last a year, but maybe not. I know they don't perform as well as the OEM parts, even when they're new.

Many online parts suppliers will sell you OEM parts at discounted prices; PartSouq and Amayama are two. There are dealerships in the states, Olathe in KS and Ourisman in VA for example, that sell at discounted prices too, but they're more expensive than the non-Toyota affiliated parts resellers are. Lexus parts has links to Lexus dealerships that sell online and also sell at discounted prices.

Your absolute best bet is to find a human parts retailer and work with him to have your needs met. This requires more work on your part, but in the end, you'll save money and know your truck more intimately.

If you really want this truck to last, stop using aftermarket parts and find a reputable Land Cruiser shop to work on it. Or, start buying tools and do the work yourself. Most of it really isn't that hard.

Lastly, and this is trivial, but those plugs look like they have a huge gap.
Appreciate the reply. Honestly, I probably didn't look around enough on the forum before I posted. I found quite a bit of information once I really started looking around. Apologies for starting another thread, and I'm sure some folks probably rolled their eyes, but I'll know next time.

Knew about Partsouq, but not the other one (Amayama) nor the US dealers you mentioned. Thanks for that, and the bluetooth reader, I'll get one of those.

I'll get it fixed up one way or another, just need to sort through the troubleshooting steps. Once I got into the accessory area of the engine bay while doing the alternator, I realized it's not that complicated. Just gotta get a little physical with it. I'm 48 and pretty healthy but wrangling a 15lb alternator around for several hours...let's just say I felt it the next day. Next on the agenda is locating the oil leak... :)
 
Hang in there.
 
The hesitation is probably your coil packs. If you didn't use denso then replace whatever you used with denso. The ticking is 99% of the time going to be your exhaust manifold, especially if it's going away once it's warmed up. They're known for cracking unfortunately. The has been a well documented issue. Just figure out which side it's coming from. If it's the passenger side it's not too hard to replace. If it's the driver side it's going to be more difficult.
 
Just wanted to close the loop on this one. For the coil pack issue, I realized at some point during the sparkplug change out, that the coil packs were not Denso. There is almost no part marking on them (just a very vague 03112 on the side), with no branding. Obviously not Denso, so I went ahead and swapped those out last Saturday to Denso brand (DEN 673-1303). It was like instant fix....that was for sure the issue. It was like a brand new engine. in fact it felt good enough that we drive the vehicle to a recent beach vacation to Oregon (several hundred miles), no issue. Literally the day after we returned, I was out running errands and the engine got really hot very quickly. Took me 5 gallons (yes, 5) of coolant replacement to get back home, probably could have done this more efficiently, but was trying to avoid the tow cost. Turns out that the radiator replacement that was done 3 years ago by a shop, was with an off-brand no-name radiator, and it appears that a large crack opened up near the top of the radiator (spewing out all over the engine). So, I spent yesterday swapping out the radiator to Denso brand.

I wanted to post again to close the loop and mostly to re-iterate the fact that Denso or a reputable brand MUST be used on these vehicles (as @Malleus and @jsloden mentioned). Obviously most folks posting in this forum preach this, but for me it was like, what the heck is going on with these "professional shops". So now, in the past few weeks, I have had to swap out almost every engine component that was done by shops in the past 3 years (sparkplugs, coil packs, radiator....now I'm wondering what brand water pump that was just put in by the shop I use, or used to use). But, it's a learning experience along the way for sure! :censor: :)
 
Next time you need work done, get it done right the first time with the guys at Torfab in Everett.
 
Next time you need work done, get it done right the first time with the guys at Torfab in Everett.
Good call, I thought about using Torfab, but the drive up to Everett has deterred me thus far (long tow for a broken down vehicle). I found another shop that looks promising and a bit closer for me. Rockatowski's (https://maps.app.goo.gl/iYDHVrHTZzUx5YUK90). Ever heard of them?
 

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