Looking at Multipurpose welders and Welding Helmets, anyone with recent experience with Professional versus Big Box store models?? (1 Viewer)

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About to purchase a multipurpose welder but as everyone knows there are literally dozens of brands out there, almost all made in Chy nuh. So decided to go with the Lincoln brand which appear to be manufactured (mostly) in the US, at least for the US market.

Either way I've narrowed it down to one of their 140amp MP or 180amp MP machines but what I don't know is how much of a difference there is between the Lincoln welders sold in welding supply/gas stores versus the welders sold in the Big Box stores??

From what I can figure out the welders sold in the welding supply stores with similar amp ratings are supposed to be more durable for long term frequent use compared to the welders sold in Home Depot, Lowe's, Northern Tool, etc (for US shoppers). One comment I found in a Reddit discussion said there are less plastic parts and that the electronic components for the Pro models are beefier and coated or encased to help prevent damage or corrosion??

So I've been looking at some of these:

WELD-PAK 140HD or LE31 (big box models) compared to the Power Mig 140MP which does mig, tig, stick (leaning toward this model as it's MP and the Pro line)


or:

WELD-PAK 180i MP DV (big box store model)


compared to the new Pro model Power Mig 211i (mig and tig only, doesn't do stick).


The 211i is one of their new models, digital readouts, etc but more expensive of course


So anyone have experience with any of these Lincoln models? @PIP , @Broski , @aztoyman
 
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Sounds like you are becoming quite acclimated to the welders. I have not used these welders in particular, I use Miller welders myself. But my 2 cents is go for the 220V version.
 
The only Home Depot bought Lincoln machine I ever used was my buddies small 100 amp?. 110 volt flux core and that was in the 90's I think. It's still going and it was ok for light work.

I just had a Miller Cricket XL back then and I still use it quite a bit. Mainly for portable work like fixing or building fencing and gates, Emergency repairs, etc. I was poor back then and all I could afford.

Saying that, get the best you can afford. I recommend a 220 volt machine or maybe a dual voltage one because a 110 volt machine can be handy at times. But 220 is probably what you need more often.

IDK about box store vs welding supply models. Call Lincoln customer service.

I never had a multi process machine. Other than a TIG can typically stick weld because it is a constant current machine. MIG is constant voltage.

Personally I prefer a simple machine instead of all in one. I don't want to do without a machine if one of the processes isn't working and it needs repairs. Maybe not an issue??

I have HTP welders. Made in Italy. No problems in 13 years.

I think Hobart (Miller company I think) are good machines too. It's good that you're doing your research. It's an investment.
 
I don't have any experience with those welders, but let me say this- I will NEVER buy a red welder again. My first real welder was a well used Lincoln 255 MIG. It was a decent machine. Some quirks like all old welders have, but I got daily use out of it until the transformer died during a big project. I bought it's equivalent, a new Lincoln 256 from my local welding supply Co. It had an unstable arc. I checked all the internal connections. Found some defects in the feed and spool holding parts. Remachined some parts so they worked right. It still sucked.

It had a warranty so I called Lincoln. I dropped it off at a repair center 2 hrs away. 5 months later after much hounding they say it's fixed. The problem? They said it was a bad liner lol. I owe them $200 they say. I pick it up, refuse payment and it still can't Weld. I complain to corporate. They send an outside sales guy. He can't get it to Weld right either. He says he'll make it right and get me a loaner machine while they figure it out.

The guy never answers his phone. I never get a loaner. Months later I call the same service center I took the welder to last time and guy says they have my welder there lol. He says all they can do is load test it and it tests fine. So he can't fix it. I call Lincoln corporate again and ask that they get me a welder that works or refund my purchase. Next day the sales guy drops the welder off, makes endless excuses for his failures and says the welder is fixed, he's sure.

The 256 was not fixed. It still didn't work. I sold it full disclosure at a loss and bought a lightly used Miller XMT304 and feeder for about what I originally paid for the Lincoln.

What an awesome welder. Inverter MIG is amazing. Miller quality is excellent.

If you can swing it, buy an inverter machine. They are incredible.

Lincoln really let me down. Thier warranty is useless. Quality is poor. I will never recommend Lincoln to anyone.
 
I like and use Miller
When I worked in the movie industry thats all they used.
They have the money to buy whats best.
The tool guy also told me that the big box stores tools are for home owners and don't buy there as its not the same quality !
I have heard good things about the Miller 211 if my old Miller matic 250 ever dies that's what I would get.
I wish I could be more helpful
 
PIP: sorry to hear about the run around Lincoln gave you, was that awhile back or??

I considered the Miller Multimatic 215 and I'm sure it's a great machine, only negative is that it's about double the cost ($2000+) compared to a similar MP Lincoln.

 
PIP: sorry to hear about the run around Lincoln gave you, was that awhile back or??

I considered the Miller Multimatic 215 and I'm sure it's a great machine, only negative is that it's about double the cost ($2000+) compared to a similar MP Lincoln.


This was 6 years ago. Still bothers me.

Oh, I forgot to mention while the new $3500 Lincoln MIG was "getting fixed" for most of a year my old Miller 350 Syncrowave from the 1980's ran about a mile of 7018 and 7014 flawlessly.
 
Found a good review done by a weld shop of the Lincoln Weld Pac 180i MP DV (K5257-1)



Comparison of a Miller welder to the 180i:

 
Are you wanting to weld aluminum? If so I’d go with a machine that has AC/DC tig. DC tig on aluminum can be done but the benefit of AC is a cleaner weld when tigging.

Back in school (2014-2016) I used the multi process machines and hated them for tig. Some were scratch start, others were lift start while the actual tig machines were a high frequency start and it made life a lot easier. When I bought my welder I went with a MIG machine and eventually I’ll add a dedicated tig machine with a HF start.

My personal machine is an ESAB machine I got for less than $1k and I love it. It is 120/210 and has welded everything I needed it to off of a generator running 110 volts (max I’ve done is 1/4”)
 
Found a video about a Lincoln warranty claim like @PIP mentioned, this one went back and forth for a year. So it seems like Lincoln quality is hit or miss but just as important their warranty service appears to be not very good.

 
I've been looking the Miller welders, appear to be high quality, commercial grade, dependable, good warranty and service, they're just a bit on the expensive side for individual/non-commercial use.

There is a newer Millermatic 142 120V Mig welder (3/16" single pass however) with a 60% duty cycle at 100amps. Seems like most big box store 120v welders top out at 20-30% duty cycle before the machine has to cool down, but it has an auto-set mode that is a change from the 141 model. Price is around $1050 but if you buy it when they have a rebate take $200-300 off that.


FWIW found a good video showing a tour of the Miller factory in Wisconsin, happy to see something that's still manufactured in the US.

 
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I've been looking the Miller welders, appear to be high quality, commercial grade, dependable, good warranty and service, they're just a bit on the expensive side for individual/non-commercial use.

There is a newer Millermatic 142 120V Mig welder (3/16" single pass however) with a 60% duty cycle at 100amps. Seems like most big box store 120v welders top out at 20-30% duty cycle before the machine has to cool down, but it has an auto-set mode that is a change from the 141 model. Price is around $1050 but if you buy it when they have a rebate take $200-300 off that.


FWIW found a good video showing a tour of the Miller factory in Wisconsin, happy to see something that's still manufactured in the US.


I love miller...its all we use. I have close to 35-40 of them, from the 110v maxstars, bobcats to the dynasties....the shop looks like a miller catalog.
 
Have you looked at Hobart? They’re a solid brand from when I was looking at buying my own welder a year ago. Or is the issue that you want to keep it as US manufactured as possible?
 
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Cyberweld is good and also IOC (Welding Supplies Online - Welder Supply Store | WeldingSuppliesfromIOC - https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/) and Baker (Shop Top of the Line Welding Gear - https://bakersgas.com/). I got my 211 from one of them but don't remember which. Miller offers discounts often which the online sellers honor.

My actual true first mig was a Hobart flux core that I never could get to work right and ended up giving away. That was probably more of a flux core issue than anything else. Hobart may have some good stuff and may be Miller's sister company but I doubt they're the same quality from what I've read over the years.
 
Anyone have experience with some of the newer welding helmets that fit well and have one of the clearer true color technologies while darkened?

Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, and Harbor Freight all sell helmets that are supposed to give you a more accurate color view of the weld puddle ie: not just dark green. Terms like Clear light, Clear Light 2.0, True Color, Pure Color, Real View, etc. etc.

Looks like the entry level helmets start ~$100-150 and the best can go to over $700!! For example Miller makes a Classic Series entry level helmet that has the Clear Light technology (not 2.0) that sells for $160 retail but has a smaller viewing area than some of their higher priced models. After that the price doubles for the next level Miller welding helmet (Digital Performance ~$350), and keeps going up from there.

On the lower end there are Harbor Freight helmets, one of their better models appears to be the Vulcan ARCSAFE which sells for ~$170.


Key points copied from the link above:

  1. Adjustable Shade Levels: The most common feature seen in auto-darkening welding helmets is their adjustable shade levels. Most helmets offer five to nine different shades, with darker shades offering more protection during longer welds or when working with hotter metals such as aluminum and stainless steel.
  2. Variable Sensitivity Levels: Many auto-darkening welding helmets come with variable sensitivity settings, allowing you to control how quickly your helmet darkens after sensing an arc flash sighted by its lens. Adjusting this setting can also help reduce eye fatigue and provide adequate protection without having to switch out darkness levels frequently.
  3. Delay Settings: Other models come with delay settings, which allow you time to adjust the hood into position before darkening takes place again after sensing an arc flash sighted by its lens. This feature will extend your helmet’s battery life and reduce eye fatigue from repeated flashes too close together in time frame periods, providing greater comfort while working long hours on your next project.
  4. Variable Speed Control: Some auto-darkening welding helmets also come with variable speed controls that help ensure optimal eye safety regardless of whether you are working on a long or short term project; longer welds can require faster rates of switching between scenes while shorter welds require slower rates of switching between scenes so as not to overpower the welder’s eyes unnecessarily due to intense arcs that can take place after high stress welding jobs have been completed on materials such as steel or aluminum within a long period of time frames in one specific day’s work session logged into history books for future reference reasons only practically experienced professionals understand about these situations going forward adequately without even second guessing themselves about it commonly at all whatsoever either due these actual occurrences in daily life realistically being something normal among experts in this particular field nowadays typically speaking generally symbolically.
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Looking for opinions on a helmet that works well with a clearer view and necessary controls but doesn't break the bank.








@PIP @Broski @Mudder @Waorani @brian @aztoyman @kevos37
 
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