Looking at an LC200 in Wilmington, anyone available to help inspect? (1 Viewer)

[mycars]

Hello NC Mudders,

I am finally ready to buy my first LC and officially join this amazing community of enthusiasts. I just moved to Sneads Ferry (stationed at Camp Lejeune) and am interested in an LC currently for sale at Go Automotive in Wilmington. The dealer has great reviews on Google, but has anyone here worked with them in the past? Also, would anyone be willing to help me inspect the rig sometime this week or next weekend? I would obviously compensate accordingly for your time and help with beer, liquor, lunch, gas money, etc. Whatever you feel is appropriate.

Here is a link to the LC.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Mike

 

[Malleus]

@mycars Welcome to the world! There's really not much that can go wrong on these trucks. If it was me, I'd look at the chassis and evaluate the rust situation. This is purely my opinion, but there are too many of these that have never been up north to ever buy one that has been, even for a day. If we were talking about a 40, that would be a different conversation, but rust is a sin you can absolve without an awful lot of penance.

I have had my LX570 since 2012 and have replaced the starter, steering gearbox and rack (that's a design flaw, based on my conversations with Lexus, but I haven't heard of anyone else on 'Mud with the same complaint) and cam tower seals (a very common problem on Land Cruisers, but not LX570s). Of those, the olnly problem you could find on an inspection is the cam tower leak. The upper rear corner of the block will be oily.

I have three other complaints, which you can find during an inspection, very quickly and easily. First, the Peltier cooler (front seat heater/cooler) in the Gen I 200 series sucks and my DS seat element is toast. Toyota fixed this in the Gen II 200 series, by replacing that POS with a functional element. Still, check the heating function; it should fell like sitting on a hot steel deck in the sun. The cooling function should feel very cool. If either doesn't function noticeably, use that as a price negotiating point.

Second, check the AHS system. With the engine running and the transmission in park, the truck should move from N to H to L and back to N in seconds. If it doesn't the system may need new accumulators, but at 10 years, I'd doubt this would be a problem.

Last, check the 4WD function of the transfer case. This is one area I would negotiate a price reduction if you find it. There is a known design flaw in the actuator for the transfer case. It's a relatively easy fix, but it's time consuming and if it's not fixed, it will effectively disable the truck until it resolves itself (which it always has on mine; I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet because I don't wheel this truck).

You should be able to shift into LO from HI and back to LO without any noise (other than the slight actuator click you may or may not hear) and lock and unlock the center differential (it's the button you hit with your knee when you're getting in the seat )while idling in gear and driving straight,. This will happen more often when it's cold outside, so you may not see this in this weather, even if it's present, but check for it anyway.

If either function fails, driving backward and forward sometimes helps to clear the fault, as does stopping, putting the transmission in park and stopping and restarting the engine. The problem is the actuator sensor loses its place and can't determine whether the transfer case has actually shifted or not. The mechanical function is rock solid, but this little sensor is a problem child. The fix is well documented here. If you buy the truck and if it has this problem, I can help you with the fix.

Alternately, my 2008 LX570 is going to be on the market next month for somewhere around half this price (albeit with twice the miles, but it's a Land Cruiser, so mileage, in my opinion, really isn't a buying factor, as much as age and use would be) , so if you don't get this one, give me a call.

Good luck!

 

[mycars]

@mycars Welcome to the world! There's really not much that can go wrong on these trucks. If it was me, I'd look at the chassis and evaluate the rust situation. This is purely my opinion, but there are too many of these that have never been up north to ever buy one that has been, even for a day. If we were talking about a 40, that would be a different conversation, but rust is a sin you can absolve without an awful lot of penance.

I have had my LX570 since 2012 and have replaced the starter, steering gearbox and rack (that's a design flaw, based on my conversations with Lexus, but I haven't heard of anyone else on 'Mud with the same complaint) and cam tower seals (a very common problem on Land Cruisers, but not LX570s). Of those, the olnly problem you could find on an inspection is the cam tower leak. The upper rear corner of the block will be oily.

I have three other complaints, which you can find during an inspection, very quickly and easily. First, the Peltier cooler (front seat heater/cooler) in the Gen I 200 series sucks and my DS seat element is toast. Toyota fixed this in the Gen II 200 series, by replacing that POS with a functional element. Still, check the heating function; it should fell like sitting on a hot steel deck in the sun. The cooling function should feel very cool. If either doesn't function noticeably, use that as a price negotiating point.

Second, check the AHS system. With the engine running and the transmission in park, the truck should move from N to H to L and back to N in seconds. If it doesn't the system may need new accumulators, but at 10 years, I'd doubt this would be a problem.

Last, check the 4WD function of the transfer case. This is one area I would negotiate a price reduction if you find it. There is a known design flaw in the actuator for the transfer case. It's a relatively easy fix, but it's time consuming and if it's not fixed, it will effectively disable the truck until it resolves itself (which it always has on mine; I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet because I don't wheel this truck).

You should be able to shift into LO from HI and back to LO without any noise (other than the slight actuator click you may or may not hear) and lock and unlock the center differential (it's the button you hit with your knee when you're getting in the seat )while idling in gear and driving straight,. This will happen more often when it's cold outside, so you may not see this in this weather, even if it's present, but check for it anyway.

If either function fails, driving backward and forward sometimes helps to clear the fault, as does stopping, putting the transmission in park and stopping and restarting the engine. The problem is the actuator sensor loses its place and can't determine whether the transfer case has actually shifted or not. The mechanical function is rock solid, but this little sensor is a problem child. The fix is well documented here. If you buy the truck and if it has this problem, I can help you with the fix.

Alternately, my 2008 LX570 is going to be on the market next month for somewhere around half this price (albeit with twice the miles, but it's a Land Cruiser, so mileage, in my opinion, really isn't a buying factor, as much as age and use would be) , so if you don't get this one, give me a call.

Good luck!

@Malleus this is incredible and super valuable information!! Those are exactly the kind of things I was wondering about - what to look for, how to check those items, etc. I will keep you posted if this one falls through and I'm still in the market. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Also, I am not familiar with the AHS system you mentioned and just did a Google search on it with no results... Does that stand for Adjustable Height System/Setting? I know the LXs have an adjustable hydraulic suspension but I thought the LCs have static coilovers. Sorry to the lack of knowledge here and appreciate your help.

 

[Malleus]

@Malleus this is incredible and super valuable information!! Those are exactly the kind of things I was wondering about - what to look for, how to check those items, etc. I will keep you posted if this one falls through and I'm still in the market. THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Also, I am not familiar with the AHS system you mentioned and just did a Google search on it with no results... Does that stand for Adjustable Height System/Setting? I know the LXs have an adjustable hydraulic suspension but I thought the LCs have static coilovers. Sorry to the lack of knowledge here and appreciate your help.

Yes, AHS is the adjustable hydraulic suspension.

The Land Cruisers were available with every option the LX570 came with. Essentially, the LX is a Land Cruiser with only one option: which stereo you wanted. Also, I looked at the 200 Land Cruiser when I bought mine. I have had every series except the 55, most of them less than 4 years old or new (in the case of my 2004 100 series). I think every series up to the 200 really should have the minimum creature comforts for the maximum usability (my opinion only, you understand).

The 200 series, again IMHO, is different. Toyota did such a good job redesigning the 200 that the extra goodies don't cut into the offroad fun. I also have offroad Land Cruisers and the 200 was going to be my daily driver, and at the time I bought it, I was driving many miles daily. For the money, a used LX570 is a much better deal than the Land Cruiser. The Lexus onroad performance is so much better there is no comparison, and the auto height adjustment makes offroading that much easier. I proved mine on the tank trails at Fort Bragg (I used to work for the Army there as a civilian engineer, so I was all over the post). No one who saw me drive there could believe I was keeping up with humvees in a Lexus.

If I had to choose between a locked 1994 80 (my choice for the all time best Land Cruiser - only because a locked 105 is a unicorn around here) and the Lexus LX570, I'm not sure I wouldn't pick the Lexus, but it would take some hard thinking. Choosing between the Lexus and a 40 is another story. I've already made that choice.

 

[mycars]

Yes, AHS is the adjustable hydraulic suspension.

The Land Cruisers were available with every option the LX570 came with. Essentially, the LX is a Land Cruiser with only one option: which stereo you wanted. Also, I looked at the 200 Land Cruiser when I bought mine. I have had every series except the 55, most of them less than 4 years old or new (in the case of my 2004 100 series). I think every series up to the 200 really should have the minimum creature comforts for the maximum usability (my opinion only, you understand).

The 200 series, again IMHO, is different. Toyota did such a good job redesigning the 200 that the extra goodies don't cut into the offroad fun. I also have offroad Land Cruisers and the 200 was going to be my daily driver, and at the time I bought it, I was driving many miles daily. For the money, a used LX570 is a much better deal than the Land Cruiser. The Lexus onroad performance is so much better there is no comparison, and the auto height adjustment makes offroading that much easier. I proved mine on the tank trails at Fort Bragg (I used to work for the Army there as a civilian engineer, so I was all over the post). No one who saw me drive there could believe I was keeping up with humvees in a Lexus.

If I had to choose between a locked 1994 80 (my choice for the all time best Land Cruiser - only because a locked 105 is a unicorn around here) and the Lexus LX570, I'm not sure I wouldn't pick the Lexus, but it would take some hard thinking. Choosing between the Lexus and a 40 is another story. I've already made that choice.

Awesome, thanks for the helpful reply.

 

[roflbox]

If you want to bid on a LC200 from the club:
@jrmudder92 has his for sale:

Overland-Modified 2011 Toyota Land Cruiser

Bid for the chance to own a Overland-Modified 2011 Toyota Land Cruiser at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #72,704.

bringatrailer.com

 

[mycars]

If you want to bid on a LC200 from the club:
@jrmudder92 has his for sale:

Overland-Modified 2011 Toyota Land Cruiser

Bid for the chance to own a Overland-Modified 2011 Toyota Land Cruiser at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #72,704.

bringatrailer.com

Wow, that is an impressive truck. I am looking for something closer to stock though. Minor mods are ok but a fully built overland rig is more than I need right now. Thanks for sharing.

 

[rlynch356]

Couple of things on the 200..
1) rust on the frame - check it out good underneath. Northern truck or beach truck can be heavy here..
2) make sure the KDSS valves move . They are located underneath, bearish in line with the pass door.. depending on the year (08-15 pre face lift) you need a 5-6mm hex socket on a short extension … (can’t remember off hand)
Or 8mm socket also on an extension) there are 2 of them, just make sure they can turn 1/2 turn..
they have a tendency to rust and be difficult to open, which you would need to do if you do any suspension work at all.

you probably want to check the 200 forum for what it looks like as well..sorry don’t have a pic

Other than that,
Just make sure maintenance is up to spec, and
The normal used car stuff and you should be good to go.

 

[onemanarmy]

@mycars Welcome to the world! There's really not much that can go wrong on these trucks. If it was me, I'd look at the chassis and evaluate the rust situation. This is purely my opinion, but there are too many of these that have never been up north to ever buy one that has been, even for a day. If we were talking about a 40, that would be a different conversation, but rust is a sin you can absolve without an awful lot of penance.

I have had my LX570 since 2012 and have replaced the starter, steering gearbox and rack (that's a design flaw, based on my conversations with Lexus, but I haven't heard of anyone else on 'Mud with the same complaint) and cam tower seals (a very common problem on Land Cruisers, but not LX570s). Of those, the olnly problem you could find on an inspection is the cam tower leak. The upper rear corner of the block will be oily.

I have three other complaints, which you can find during an inspection, very quickly and easily. First, the Peltier cooler (front seat heater/cooler) in the Gen I 200 series sucks and my DS seat element is toast. Toyota fixed this in the Gen II 200 series, by replacing that POS with a functional element. Still, check the heating function; it should fell like sitting on a hot steel deck in the sun. The cooling function should feel very cool. If either doesn't function noticeably, use that as a price negotiating point.

Second, check the AHS system. With the engine running and the transmission in park, the truck should move from N to H to L and back to N in seconds. If it doesn't the system may need new accumulators, but at 10 years, I'd doubt this would be a problem.

Last, check the 4WD function of the transfer case. This is one area I would negotiate a price reduction if you find it. There is a known design flaw in the actuator for the transfer case. It's a relatively easy fix, but it's time consuming and if it's not fixed, it will effectively disable the truck until it resolves itself (which it always has on mine; I haven't gotten around to fixing it yet because I don't wheel this truck).

You should be able to shift into LO from HI and back to LO without any noise (other than the slight actuator click you may or may not hear) and lock and unlock the center differential (it's the button you hit with your knee when you're getting in the seat )while idling in gear and driving straight,. This will happen more often when it's cold outside, so you may not see this in this weather, even if it's present, but check for it anyway.

If either function fails, driving backward and forward sometimes helps to clear the fault, as does stopping, putting the transmission in park and stopping and restarting the engine. The problem is the actuator sensor loses its place and can't determine whether the transfer case has actually shifted or not. The mechanical function is rock solid, but this little sensor is a problem child. The fix is well documented here. If you buy the truck and if it has this problem, I can help you with the fix.

Alternately, my 2008 LX570 is going to be on the market next month for somewhere around half this price (albeit with twice the miles, but it's a Land Cruiser, so mileage, in my opinion, really isn't a buying factor, as much as age and use would be) , so if you don't get this one, give me a call.

Good luck!

That's quite a list of potential expensive repairs for 'not much to go wrong'

And how pathetic is it that on the perceived Holy Grail of off road expedition trucks that there is a faulty actuator problem for the Tcase.

Blows my mind how overcomplex and over complicated they are hell bent on making these trucks. For what reason I cannot understand.

 

[mycars]

Couple of things on the 200..
1) rust on the frame - check it out good underneath. Northern truck or beach truck can be heavy here..
2) make sure the KDSS valves move . They are located underneath, bearish in line with the pass door.. depending on the year (08-15 pre face lift) you need a 5-6mm hex socket on a short extension … (can’t remember off hand)
Or 8mm socket also on an extension) there are 2 of them, just make sure they can turn 1/2 turn..
they have a tendency to rust and be difficult to open, which you would need to do if you do any suspension work at all.

you probably want to check the 200 forum for what it looks like as well..sorry don’t have a pic

Other than that,
Just make sure maintenance is up to spec, and
The normal used car stuff and you should be good to go.

Thanks for the helpful tips on what to look for. I got a couple photos from the dealer today, what does everyone think about these?

 

[pkniland]

That amount if rust would not scare me.

 

[mtweller]

I'd consider that very clean for a '13. I settled on a truck that spent some time up North to get the Amazon Green I wanted... I wish my truck looked like that underneath.

 

[mycars]

Quick update - I hope to check out the truck tomorrow in person. I will try to take pics of the KDSS valves if possible and post them here. Thank you for all the help and advice!

 

[mycars]

I saw the truck today and checked it out the best I could as a novice - exterior, interior, crawled underneath, checked under the hood, etc.

• KDSS Valves - I tried to find them and take the best pics I could, see below and let me know what you think please
• Rust - some areas looked ok and others I'm not sure. Same as above re: pics and your thoughts
• Works well
  • A/C - dealer explained the recent repairs, seems good to go
  • Heated and cooled seats are good
  • Cooler box is good
  • 4WD LO and HI work well
  • Center diff works well
  • CRAWL works well
  • No leaks evident near radiator
• Not up to spec (some minor):
  • L rear bumper cracked (2 pics) and R side scratched, should it be replaced?
  • 2 engine tray bolts missing - to be replaced by dealer
  • Condition of brakes - TBD by PPI
  • No floor mats
  • Missing front cigarette lighter and panel next to it (ashtray?)

The dealer seems like a really nice guy, very transparent, and his father-in-law has owned the LC for the life of the truck. The father-in-law has owned nothing but LCs since 1994 and the whole family are big Toyota/LC fans. However, the dealer was not the most knowledgeable on the ins and outs of the rig, but neither am I as I am looking to buy my first LC.

I have a PPI appointment scheduled with an indie shop, MobileTech, on 5/10 and one with the local Toyota dealer on 5/16 (the earliest they could do). I think I would prefer the Toyota dealer to do the PPI but would appreciate hearing your thoughts on that and everything else here. Thank you!!

 

[mycars]

A few more pics...

 

[S4Cruiser]

Pics don’t look bad but I’m also a bit of a perfectionist and that plus the current used car market = $$$. if you like the truck and are ok with paying the price, that rust wouldn’t equal long term issues (unless you neglect it).

I would like to see pics of your b7 rs4!

 

[uzj100]

The rust does not look bad and pretty similar to all the other 200s I have inspected for friends.

 

[mycars]

Pics don’t look bad but I’m also a bit of a perfectionist and that plus the current used car market = $$$. if you like the truck and are ok with paying the price, that rust wouldn’t equal long term issues (unless you neglect it).

I would like to see pics of your b7 rs4!

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

That 200 looks ok. That's my favorite 200 series front end. The Toyota True Start battery is a good sign that dealer servicing was done. The power steering fluid looks dark though.

You can search the vehicle service history on the Toyota owners website just set up an account and put in the VIN.

The rust isn't too bad. Grind, treat and paint.

Easy work if you can rent a lift at the base auto hobby shop.

Get a can of Kroil and soak those rusty fasteners down a few times before replacing them.

You may be able to find a replacement rear bumper in magnetic grey on the forum classifieds. Lots of people are putting heavy duty rear bumpers on these lately.

Good luck, welcome to Landcruisers and nice RS4!

 

[mycars]

That 200 looks ok. That's my favorite 200 series front end. The Toyota True Start battery is a good sign that dealer servicing was done. The power steering fluid looks dark though.

You can search the vehicle service history on the Toyota owners website just set up an account and put in the VIN.

The rust isn't too bad. Grind, treat and paint.

Easy work if you can rent a lift at the base auto hobby shop.

Get a can of Kroil and soak those rusty fasteners down a few times before replacing them.

You may be able to find a replacement rear bumper in magnetic grey on the forum classifieds. Lots of people are putting heavy duty rear bumpers on these lately.

Good luck, welcome to Landcruisers and nice RS4!

Wow, amazing advice and tips! Thank you so much for all of that.