Looking at 1988 4Runner
- Thread starter Trinn
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2ndGenToyotaFan
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They are crap.... where is it and what was the phone number? 
If it's the V6, it was before all the headgasket issues, so that should not be a problem. If it's a 4 banger you want to know if when the timing chain has been replaced... Really you want maintenance records, as that is the improtant stuff. Check to see if the rear window works from the switch up front and the key in the gate (If it doesn't, use that to bargan with, it's usually an easy fix if it doesn't work, but don't tell them!)
If it's the V6, it was before all the headgasket issues, so that should not be a problem. If it's a 4 banger you want to know if when the timing chain has been replaced... Really you want maintenance records, as that is the improtant stuff. Check to see if the rear window works from the switch up front and the key in the gate (If it doesn't, use that to bargan with, it's usually an easy fix if it doesn't work, but don't tell them!)
2ndGenToyotaFan
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Find out when/if the timing belt has been changed, if they changed the idler bearings while at it.... The V6 is not an overly powerful, or economical engine, but it's got some decent torque.
My number one rule is don't look too long... And then, it's body, body, body, body, frame, body, frame. All else is easily fixed, provided purchase price is right.
But chasing rust is not my idea of fun, nor is frame damage; get under there and make sure it's straight. Generally a good idea to stay away from repaints, as they are red flags for previous accidents. Many of the Toyota V-6 engines, including the 3.0, had (and still have) sludge problems, sometimes evident when you look closely at the oil fill cover and shine a flashlight inside the valve cover. A finger will work too, but make sure to do it with the engine cold (and off, of course).
So if the body and frame are good, engine sounds and drives right, the tranny shifts as it should, and the A/C works, definitely don't wait too long. Someone else will snag it! Always lowball. Always, unless it's a sweetheart deal and you don't want to risk rocking the boat! Don't be ashamed, they'll only laugh at you for five minutes after you've left, and you'll probably never see them again anyway. You can use verbiage such as,"I sure don't want to insult you, but the most I could possibly offer you would be (roughly 60-70% of asking price, +-). You can always pay more than you say, but a private seller will seldom take less than you've already agreed to pay.
Welcome to the mud!
But chasing rust is not my idea of fun, nor is frame damage; get under there and make sure it's straight. Generally a good idea to stay away from repaints, as they are red flags for previous accidents. Many of the Toyota V-6 engines, including the 3.0, had (and still have) sludge problems, sometimes evident when you look closely at the oil fill cover and shine a flashlight inside the valve cover. A finger will work too, but make sure to do it with the engine cold (and off, of course).
So if the body and frame are good, engine sounds and drives right, the tranny shifts as it should, and the A/C works, definitely don't wait too long. Someone else will snag it! Always lowball. Always, unless it's a sweetheart deal and you don't want to risk rocking the boat! Don't be ashamed, they'll only laugh at you for five minutes after you've left, and you'll probably never see them again anyway. You can use verbiage such as,"I sure don't want to insult you, but the most I could possibly offer you would be (roughly 60-70% of asking price, +-). You can always pay more than you say, but a private seller will seldom take less than you've already agreed to pay.
Welcome to the mud!
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I agree on this school of though. I have dealt with many, many rust issues on my FJ60 and will never go through that again. For the average home mechanic there is not much that you cannot do, except for body rust and frame damage.
I spent 2 months looking for the right one and I am glad I waited.
