Longer wheel studs

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ntsqd said:
I'm not sure what you're saying here. That I should just fork over the $900-$1000 that ARP quoted me for making the 48 studs ?

I'm reluctantly open to the idea of using a 1/2-20 aftermarket wheel stud if someone can find one with a shoulder that isn't about 7/16" shorter than the OE stud's shoulder. The aftermarket stud with the longest shoulder in a suitable OD that I've found thus far has a shoulder length of ~0.900" The OE stud has a shoulder length of 1.344"
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I was sarcasticly saying you should spend less on new wheels than a grand for some dumb studs to run whatever wheels you are presently in love with.

Theres a reason no one makes them, they are not needed.

If you are that in love with you aluminum wheels, just drill them out to the right size to use TOYOTA mag lugnuts properly.

The reason toyota never used a stud this long is because the they designed the wheels and lugnts properly.

And to think my old DD with only 4 out of 6 lug nuts on it hasnt lost a wheel ever.

Whats the specs on the rig you are so worried about the wheel falling off of?
 
your sarcasim is getting a bit old.

there are times(rare I know) longer studs come into play. Should somebody do research on what rims they are buying sure......but buddy drilling has nothing to do with this it has to do with the thickness of the rim itself.

Sometimes people find themeselves with a thick rim then to add insult to injury they find it dont(the rim) clear the TRE or the caliper or both then they start looking for longer studs cause somebody told them to use 1/4 spacers with their rims
Chop Shop said:
I was sarcasticly saying you should spend less on new wheels than a grand for some dumb studs to run whatever wheels you are presently in love with.

Theres a reason no one makes them, they are not needed.

If you are that in love with you aluminum wheels, just drill them out to the right size to use TOYOTA mag lugnuts properly.

The reason toyota never used a stud this long is because the they designed the wheels and lugnts properly.

And to think my old DD with only 4 out of 6 lug nuts on it hasnt lost a wheel ever.

Whats the specs on the rig you are so worried about the wheel falling off of?
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ntsqd, if you must use the wheels in question and you do not feel safe than order the aarp studs.
i am taking it you have to order a certain amount for them to make them.
so order them when you see some one else on here looking for longer front wheel studs than sell them to them, you will eventually make your money back and then some.
and for the know this is wat he needs but longer.
toy4xfun-albums-bs-picture13141-mytruck-208.jpg
 
Chop Shop said:
I was sarcasticly saying you should spend less on new wheels than a grand for some dumb studs to run whatever wheels you are presently in love with.

Theres a reason no one makes them, they are not needed.
Click to expand...
Actually, I think that most don't know how much thread engagement they should have, and I have the unfortunate engineering education that tells me otherwise. For most rock crawlers it isn't an issue because of their steel wheels choice.
If you are that in love with you aluminum wheels, just drill them out to the right size to use TOYOTA mag lugnuts properly.
Click to expand...
You've priced THOSE lately, right? If you have not, you're in for a real surprise. May as well buy the superior ARP studs and be able to use a commonly available lug nut instead of a semi-rare part.
The reason toyota never used a stud this long is because the they designed the wheels and lugnts properly.
Click to expand...
No, not properly. Just differently. There are many ways to do this. A thin wheel web is the design compromise that Toyota made, but not one that I'm willing to make.
And to think my old DD with only 4 out of 6 lug nuts on it hasnt lost a wheel ever.
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And you chase desert racers with your DD? I do with the Mini and it is my occasional DD.

toy4x, thanks for the picture. I have a pdf drawing of the OE stud that I made posted in one of these two threads, but the oddity of the shoulder design is much more obvious in the picture.

What lead me to even notice this problem was a wheel vs. stock steering arm clearance issue. 1/8" to 1/4" shim spacers would be a good call, but not with this little of thread engagement. I'd call the thread engagement borderline now, but driving the truck is going to cost me some FJ80 TRE's as the wheels are tearing the boots. There is no way that a shim spacer could be safely added.
 
how far will a 11/2" spacer push your tire out past the fender?
they will bolt to your stock studs and then you can bolt to the studs provided in them.
i know you have looked at this but for cost reasons it might be better.
another option just discussed on here is ifs hubs, the use different wheel studs.
 
toy4xfun said:
how far will a 11/2" spacer push your tire out past the fender?
they will bolt to your stock studs and then you can bolt to the studs provided in them.
Click to expand...

When I installed my one inch spacers on the rear I didn't have enough thread engagement, at least for my comfort. I was able to find a longer stud.

Draw your own conclusion. I don't think this was safe.

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ntsqd said:
You've priced THOSE lately, right? If you have not, you're in for a real surprise. May as well buy the superior ARP studs and be able to use a commonly available lug nut instead of a semi-rare part.
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The wrecking yards are full of them. A full set will fit in your pockets. Then you just need to get the er rims drilled.

I have tons of those nugnuts. Im speaking of the ones with the shoulder and washer built in. They came on over a million trucks and 4runners. Old yes, but hardy rare.
 
cruiser88 said:
your sarcasim is getting a bit old.

there are times(rare I know) longer studs come into play. Should somebody do research on what rims they are buying sure......but buddy drilling has nothing to do with this it has to do with the thickness of the rim itself.
Click to expand...

drilling does to relate to the thickness of the rim. Its too thick for proper thread engagment, so using a nut with a shoulder that goes into the rims thickness about a 1/4 inch would have say 1/4 inch more engagement than say and acorn on the same rim? yes/no? One would need to drill the rim to fit a factory toyota shoulder style lugnut.:popcorn:
 
you really are thick headed.
Chop Shop said:
drilling does to relate to the thickness of the rim. Its too thick for proper thread engagment, so using a nut with a shoulder that goes into the rims thickness about a 1/4 inch would have say 1/4 inch more engagement than say and acorn on the same rim? yes/no? One would need to drill the rim to fit a factory toyota shoulder style lugnut.:popcorn:
Click to expand...
 
ntsqd said:
Neither set of my wheels use anything but a typical 'acorn' type lug nut. That is what came on the 60 holding it's Enkei's on, and that is what the tire & wheel shop supplied for Eagle's on the Mini. Neither wheel set has a large enough set of lug holes to use the old style of mag wheel lug nut, and neither wheel is hub-centric so a flat-faced lug nut wouldn't work either.

In a 12mm wheel stud I have about 9.5mm worth of the thread engagement per nut. That's not even 80% of one thread diameter!
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are you talking about american racing eagles?
not sure about the Enkei's.
 
Chop Shop said:
drilling does to relate to the thickness of the rim. Its too thick for proper thread engagment, so using a nut with a shoulder that goes into the rims thickness about a 1/4 inch would have say 1/4 inch more engagement than say and acorn on the same rim? yes/no? One would need to drill the rim to fit a factory toyota shoulder style lugnut.:popcorn:
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Consider that the wheels on the Xcab are a cheep wheel. I bought them because they weren't made of gold so that replacing them when they do start to show the abuse won't be a pocket drainer. So say you're the cheap wheel mfg. and you have the option of reducing the thickness of the wheel center. That means more wheels from the same amount of raw stock. Certainly helps your bottom line doesn't it?

Except that the dang blasted engineers are telling you that in this alloy they have to be X.XXX" thick or they won't hold the claimed load and you'll have the DOT raining on your parade, to say nothing of the lawsuits that you'll get slapped with, because the wheels failed and some numbnutz wiped out a whole busload of school children.

Do you still think drilling those wheels is a good idea? I sure as hell do not.

--------------------------

Pappy, are those front or rear studs? If front on what? Toy4X's picture is the front stud that I'm dealing with. The total length of the shoulder is 1.344" long because they go through the rotor and then the wheel flange. The splines engage the back ~1/2 of the wheel flange nearest to the the rotor.

If I were crawling the thick spacers might be an option were I not morally opposed to them. That's a whole other thread & I won't go into it here. In my use such spacers would work the steering bearings and the steering system really, really hard. As it is I only get about 2.5-3 years out of a set Koyo steering bearings before they are brinnelled to the point that the steering is unacceptably notchy.
 
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look i am not an engineer but i have a set of ifs hubs the only difference between the ifs and solid axle are where the wheel mounts ifs is about 1 1/2" out ward from where the solid axle is so what if i put 1 1/2" spacers on they use the same bearings and every thing.
please explain?
 
ok now you are talking with a forked tongue, i read two of those threads and will read the third but you are hell bent on running aluminum rims but against aluminum spacers?
look i can see the forces against a spacer but i also can see the same forces can be applied to the aluminum wheel.
 
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