Longer front sway bar links - thoughts? (9 Viewers)

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^ $150 is a deal! But I don't see what keeps the ASB in a fixed out of the way position when disconnected?
 
this is what jeep guys did for years. I never had a problem with my setup.

http://www.4x4xplor.com/homediscos.html

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^ $150 is a deal! But I don't see what keeps the ASB in a fixed out of the way position when disconnected?

There's no motive force for it to move except gravity and inertia. The rubber grommets at the frame mounting points provide more than enough resistance to keep it in place after you spin the ASB upward out of the way.
 
^ I wouldn't expect any appreciable difference with longer links...even if it were possible (driveshaft interference).

However based upon my experience with running my 100 on-trail without the front ASB a QR disconnect would be highly appreciated by me! If the on-road manners weren't so nasty I'd run without the front ASB...but IMO with my rig its borderline dangerous...if not irresponsible relative to passenger's and/or other motorist's overall safety.

Even with the Timbren bump stops on the front? I was thinking that might help to reduce some sway when running without a front ASB.
 
^ they don't 'engage' early enough in the front suspension articulation/travel to make any real difference for on-road sway...especially in emergency maneuvers.
 
I posted some images etc of the 2" longer links http://forum.tlcfaq.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=287


I'm continuing to test... I've lifted the front end again with a torsion bar adjust, up 1 inch to 21 1/8 inches (hub center to fender lip) and some (not as bad as before links) of the harness has returned... Once my rear bumper is on and ride height is set I will likely need to increase the length of the new links - maybe 2.5". I'll continue to update.
 
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I'm not interested in this for adding additional travel to the front, but primarily releasing some of the tension that has to be built up from cranking T-Bars. Seems like a no brainier to drop $100 on a set of front links if it prevents $x,xxx in wear and tear over an extended period of time.
 
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I'm not interested in this for adding additional travel to the front, but primarily releasing some of the tension that has to be built up from cranking T-Bars. Seems like a no brainier to drop $100 on a set of front links if it prevents $x,xxx in wear and tear over an extended period of time.

It's quite shocking the ride difference when the ASB isn't pre tensioned. It's very smooth side to side transitions with out the scary feeling of no ASB in place.

More to come. I hope others will experiment as well.
 
I switched to extended rear ASB bracket in the rear when updating all the ASB bushings. Didn't consider lengthening the front ASB brackets but as RobRed pointed out, it makes sense. Going to look into 1.5" extended links and report back.
 
Any updates on the front links?

I just ordered my rear links from extreme land cruiser, and have a set of OEM's for the front to get ready to extend. Probably going to go with 1" unless anyone has something different that they like.
 
This is all RobRed to credit, but I'll try to help with an explanation (at least the way I think of it)

Think about it like a recurve bow for bow and arrow.

The bow is the sway bar, and the truck is the string. The further you raise the truck (pull the string back) The more tension is placed on the bow. It also becomes less stable, and places force on the components that keep it in place.

The concept is to put the sway bar back to a neutral position, releasing the tension/stress on components, better allowing it to do its job.
 
Ah ok, I think I'm getting it. So relative to the control arm mounting points and the frame mounting points, the sway bar is being angled down with all added vehicle lift. This is also putting stress on the frame mounts, as the now too short links are pulling down on the bar. Correct?

I had never thought about it like that. I ran disconnects on my old 4Runner but never made them longer to return the angle back to stock level.
 
Those with skid plates may have a problem with longer front sway bar mounts as it pushes the bar into it.

I always thought it would be easier to simply use the old rear links as many have already updated their rears to the longer 80 series links.

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The front and rear links are different so you can't re-use the old rear links up front. Robred had a new pair of front links cut and added 2" to them. The writeup on his site is here:

http://forum.tlcfaq.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=287&sid=ab533c87d79dfbd1fb5d2a65b1721278

Maybe he will chime in but after installing he mentions he possibly should've gone with longer ones. My front end is basically maxed out with 2.75" of lift in the front. I have not added extended links up front but I would think 2.75" over stock would make sense to match the lift on mine.

I ordered my rear links from Man-A-Fre - tried Extreme Landcruiser but they didn't have any in stock and took to long to get back with me. Even though the Man-A-Fre site has said under construction for some time now I placed a online order and my parts shipped quickly and arrived in a few days.
 
Why would the rears not work up front? They fit fine (aside from skid plate interference and add an extra couple inches to the sway bar link Am I missing something ?


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If you raise the front suspension height 2"...measured from hub center...the ASB, at link location, is effected less...could measure or calc but guessing its probably 50% or less.
 
Why would the rears not work up front? They fit fine (aside from skid plate interference and add an extra couple inches to the sway bar link Am I missing something ?

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2 totally different links. One is U ended (rear) and one is O ended (front)

Front and Rear links.....

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If you raise the front suspension height 2"...measured from hub center...the ASB, at link location, is effected less...could measure or calc but guessing its probably 50% or less.


You're probably close in your thinking that the ratio of lift to link extension is not 1:1

The 2" longer links have been great - so my initial thinking that maybe a longer version may be needed is not correct.

After 200 plus miles of offroad in Death Valley last week I can atest to the value of the longer links. I'm glad I did it.

This is all RobRed to credit, but I'll try to help with an explanation (at least the way I think of it)

Think about it like a recurve bow for bow and arrow.

The bow is the sway bar, and the truck is the string. The further you raise the truck (pull the string back) The more tension is placed on the bow. It also becomes less stable, and places force on the components that keep it in place.

The concept is to put the sway bar back to a neutral position, releasing the tension/stress on components, better allowing it to do its job.


Good explanation. One thing to keep in mind is that when the suspension is absolutely perfectly level and straight (this is laboratory mind you) there is no difference in the longer links effect... once the suspension is different (which is every second of every day) right to left then the effect of the longer links comes into play.

It's a cheap mod and I encourage every to experiement for their needs.
 
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