Long distance expedition cruiser 80vs100

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Except that you always list it as an "advantage" of the 100 over the 80. But in actuality, it's not an advantage, just a way to compensate for the inherently weaker design.

Also, shaft breakage isn't necessarily the concern, but also remember a few other things about this design. The axles use bushings, not wheel bearings. If one goes, you are toast, unless you happen to be carrying a hydraulic press in your toolkit. Whereas on a full-floater with bearings, it's a simple job to swap in new bearings and races with hand tools. Also, C-clips can be a problem, though I seem to remember that the 100 uses a clip-less design like a Hilux. Can anyone confirm?

Again, don't go telling me about how no one breaks these on our U.S. trails, which are all within an hour or two of a service station. Who cares. I'm talking about being in the middle of the Kalahari where breakage can equal death.

Get real buddy! Criticizing components when there's been no reported failures is like preaching to the choir. Wanna talk Cherokees and Wrangler axles and we can discuss. 80 and 100? No point to it. :)
 
Get real buddy! Criticizing components when there's been no reported failures is like preaching to the choir. Wanna talk Cherokees and Wrangler axles and we can discuss. 80 and 100? No point to it. :)

I'm not criticizing components. I'm criticizing design. A subtle but important difference. :rolleyes:
 
Which is more than on a 100.

Anyway, I mostly agree with you, but even then, as you state, there are similarities among the 80 and 60 Series, and by extension 55, 40 (at least for certain drivetrain components), which is more than can be said for the 100. Also, I did say could "be more easily adapted." And not just older Cruisers, but even newer ones that you can't get here, but are often encountered in other countries, e.g. 78 Series Troopies also use the same front axle as the 80, and can be encountered with the same engine, and maybe tranny, etc.

It's all relative. For the two trucks listed as potential candidates, the U.S.-spec 80 has more in common with older, or other, Cruisers than the U.S.-spec 100.

If it were me, I'd take a diesel UNIMOG. Who cares about parts availability if nothing ever breaks? But then, I'm biased... :flipoff2:


Ironically the one MOG that was at SnT was sitting in the grass median just north of San Luis yesterday morning with a tow truck getting ready to hook it up...I really wish I had taken a pic of that one!!!!!!
 
Not to me. If neither fail in the field, who cares there's even a difference. Gotta argue about something else. Rear axle arguments between the 80 and 100 are pointless. :)

That's because you don't wheel anyplace where your life may be in danger if your truck breaks, i.e. exposure to the elements, lack of water or shelter, or marauding bandits with AK-47s. But the original poster might, therefore this is an argument that might concern him. These are the kind of details you have to pay attention to if you're going to make such a trip with no support.
 
Ironically the one MOG that was at SnT was sitting in the grass median just north of San Luis yesterday morning with a tow truck getting ready to hook it up...I really wish I had taken a pic of that one!!!!!!

Heh, that's too funny. I know those guys, I was the one that invited them down to SnT (with Jim's permission, of course). Was this the big red 1300L (looks like a pickup on steroids, with a canvas cover over the bed)? It's actually an ex-firetruck from Germany. I'll have to give them some s#!t.

I was talking to one of my buddies and he said they were pulling out vehicles all day long on Friday. I'll have to ask what they did to the truck. MOGs don't like the freeway, so maybe he burned up his tranny or something. Oh well, those 1300s are too big and heavy anyway. I think they weigh something like 10,000 pounds dry, and a GVWR of 25,000 pounds!!!

I'll take my smaller and lighter 404... :flipoff2:
 
[snip]And how come it is not possible to import a single car into the states? How is Podvin than able to register his "prototypes"?

Regards
Samo

This is the great irony...politics, IMHO. Most things done in this country is NOT for the benefit of public safety. As you mention, you can't import even a left-hand drive LC78 or 105 w/o it meeting a bunch of regulations...emissions, DOT glass, headlights, airbags, etc. OTOH, one can build a car in one's garage, have it registered, and drive with exemptions from emissions. It's clearly a double standard. Who would stand to lose the most if, say, one were to go to Japan and buy a new HDJ100 that sells for $40K USD w/ rear diff lock, A/C, no navi, leather, roof rack, or running boards?

FYI, it would be easier importing an overseas 100 series (not the 105) or 80 than a 70 since there is a precedence here already, meaning the 100 and 80 are/were sold here and were crash tested. The importing company responsible for getting your vehicle up to specs can apply for a crash test exemption saying its similar enough to US-spec 100's/80's. With a LC70, you technically have to crash test it. If it's '97+, you have to have front air bags installed. Plus all glass has to be DOT, headlights DOT, etc. And if it's diesel, depending on where you import, you may or may not be able to import a new diesel (in CA, it has to have some minimum number of miles). The LC70 was last sold in Japan in '02 or so, and even then, it didn't have air bags...probably the only JDM toyota w/o standard airbags.

There is also an age limit. If it's 25 or 30 yrs old (I forget which), it can be imported as a classic car and is exempt from everything. The other way is to get a letter from the automaker saying this vehicle meets the crash/emissions standards for the US. Now if you did manage to get a LC 70 in, what do you do if your windshield breaks?
 
Well, there's a little more to it though. I'm not on the up and up with kit-cars but from what I remember, a smog referee will determine what year model your kit-car most closely resembles. If there is nothing that resembles your car, it is given a 1960 designation. Then as the owner, you have the option to choose a smog test based on the model year the referee determined or your engine. If your engine is 30 years old, then you are in luck because there is a rolling 30 years smog exemption. They allow 500 of this specially constructed vehicles to be registered each year. They often reach 500 by the second business day of the year.
 
FYI, it would be easier importing an overseas 100 series (not the 105) or 80 than a 70 since there is a precedence here already, meaning the 100 and 80 are/were sold here and were crash tested. The importing company responsible for getting your vehicle up to specs can apply for a crash test exemption saying its similar enough to US-spec 100's/80's. With a LC70, you technically have to crash test it. If it's '97+, you have to have front air bags installed. Plus all glass has to be DOT, headlights DOT, etc. And if it's diesel, depending on where you import, you may or may not be able to import a new diesel (in CA, it has to have some minimum number of miles). The LC70 was last sold in Japan in '02 or so, and even then, it didn't have air bags...probably the only JDM toyota w/o standard airbags.

There is also an age limit. If it's 25 or 30 yrs old (I forget which), it can be imported as a classic car and is exempt from everything. The other way is to get a letter from the automaker saying this vehicle meets the crash/emissions standards for the US. Now if you did manage to get a LC 70 in, what do you do if your windshield breaks?

If it is possible to import a car without crash test exemption, I would definatelly buy a diesel 80 or 100 series from central america and bring it home.
 
Heh, that's too funny. I know those guys, I was the one that invited them down to SnT (with Jim's permission, of course). Was this the big red 1300L (looks like a pickup on steroids, with a canvas cover over the bed)? It's actually an ex-firetruck from Germany. I'll have to give them some s#!t.

I was talking to one of my buddies and he said they were pulling out vehicles all day long on Friday. I'll have to ask what they did to the truck. MOGs don't like the freeway, so maybe he burned up his tranny or something. Oh well, those 1300s are too big and heavy anyway. I think they weigh something like 10,000 pounds dry, and a GVWR of 25,000 pounds!!!

I'll take my smaller and lighter 404... :flipoff2:


No...it was the orange one with the white-ish aluminum camper type cover.
 
i dont know if a 100 is a + over a 80 but i love my 100.
lift going on soon now that i have all the parts.
still need diff drop from slee.
winch goes on this week to. cant wate to take off that bumper !

02 100
arb front ,back,side, k&n intake,ipf j01c,optima red.
parts i have and yet to put on. ome shocks, ome tortion bars,ome med load springs,
warn m8000 winch .
maybe a little small but the price was right.
need arb roof rack, new tires.
and some day lockers.
the nav is nice but my software is still 02 if any one has a upgrade that would be cool.

love the cruiser
J tapert
 
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You could buy a HDJ100 and swap the vin #'s and reg/plates over from a 100 you had sitting in your driveway. Then when it came time to get inspected, slap the plates back on the UZJ and go inspect it...then put the plates back on the HDJ. you might want to let it sit on cinder blocks and let it run at idle in drive for a day or two, so you can put some extra miles on it...so it doesnt look totally weird. LOL

OK totally illegal i guess but what really is bad about it? Your using the diesel which gets better gas mileage...
 
One way to tell if the vehicle is a C-Clip design is that the rear axle MUST have a removable diff cover like the early Landcruisers..........

You have to have the removable cover to install the clips, therefore the 100 is not a C Clip design.

As for the SF and FF argument, I am a fan of SF over FF for any vehicle that does not tow a heavy load. I base that on a lot of info I have gathered over the years of building and breaking axles, therefore please do not confuse this statement with agreeing with Shotts :D

Knowing the toyota engineers, the 100 series SF is overbuilt like everything else.

All that said, if it were between the US 80-series and the US 100 series, I would build an 80 series for expedition use.
 
One way to tell if the vehicle is a C-Clip design is that the rear axle MUST have a removable diff cover like the early Landcruisers..........

You have to have the removable cover to install the clips, therefore the 100 is not a C Clip design.

As for the SF and FF argument, I am a fan of SF over FF for any vehicle that does not tow a heavy load. I base that on a lot of info I have gathered over the years of building and breaking axles, therefore please do not confuse this statement with agreeing with Shotts :D

Knowing the toyota engineers, the 100 series SF is overbuilt like everything else.

All that said, if it were between the US 80-series and the US 100 series, I would build an 80 series for expedition use.


With cromo birfs :D
 
and check out the other thread going on as far as crossing vast expanses of sand dunes in a 100.... :)
 
All I know is if I took off tomorrow on a trip like this the LX450 would stay home and UZJ100 would go.

IF both vehicles were brand new I MIGHT reconsider....though doubt it.

I'd much rather take a 2001 vs a 1997 vehicle. Both are up to the task for sure.

All the axle, IFS, V8 and other spec crap talk are meaningless to me for this application.
 
All the axle, IFS, V8 and other spec crap talk are meaningless to me for this application.



????Why????

These features are precisely the point, and most worthy of discussion. As has been discussed so far, any Land Cruiser guy can do a front axle repair on an 80 in a few hours with simple tools. A broken rear axle could be replaced in literally minutes. A 100 series front axle repair would be 1) more likely, 2) more difficult, 3) much harder to get parts for, (not to mention the near certainty of a broken front diff!)

Don't most 100s take premium fuel? Where you gonna score that in the third world?

In a well maintained vehicle, I'm not sure how much the "newness" really matters. Keep it maintained, and the cooling system and related bits 100% and you're good for thousands and thousands of miles.

If I were planning this expedition, I would want a near stock vehicle, with good tires, range, and fuel economy. Since neither the 80 or the 100 really excell at range and economy, I would probably take something else. Ideal worldwide Land Cruiser--diesel 60 series!
 
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