This just came up on my Facebook. This is the solution to avoid buying the delta control arms. Not great but definitely better.
Local Friends - Pls help me sort my 80 series geometry! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Jeff Elliott
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This just came up on my Facebook. This is the solution to avoid buying the delta control arms. Not great but definitely better.
Can’t see the link.
lumbee1
Native American
80 Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit FJ80 FZJ80 Land Cruiser
80 Series DIY Front Axle Relocation Kit to better aid in tire clearance while attempting to maintain a lower Center of Gravity (CG) on your 80-Series Land Cruiser.
redlinelandcruisers.com
I think for the extra $50 I'd rather have the eimkeith radius arm mounts. His pieces are not just two plates like the Redline ones, but a single laser-cut and folded bracket that self centers into the factory mount pocket. In addition to moving the axle forward a smidge, Keith's brackets give 3+ degrees of caster. Check these out:
Radius Arm Mounts
One of my goals for our FZJ80 is to keep a relatively low frame height while maintaining as much up-travel as I can. I'm pursuing this in stages; first a 50mm
eimkeith.com
Keith is from Monroe, NC, right down the road from me.
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lumbee1
Native American
Seriously? Sounds like a road trip.I think for the extra $50 I'd rather have the eimkeith radius arm mounts. His pieces are not just two plates like the Redline ones, but a single laser-cut and folded bracket that self centers into the factory mount pocket. In addition to moving the axle forward a smidge, Keith's brackets give 3+ degrees of caster. Check these out:
Radius Arm Mounts
One of my goals for our FZJ80 is to keep a relatively low frame height while maintaining as much up-travel as I can. I'm pursuing this in stages; first a 50mm
Keith is from Monroe, NC, right down the road from me.
I have the eimkeith panhard correction kit installed on my 80. The quality and fitment is top notch. I don't have the radius arm mounts, but I would be open to trying them. Another cool thing about them is that even after welding on the mounts, you can always drop back to the factory hole if you prefer the stock setup. The panhard correction kit is the same way. Factory location is not obscured.
According to Keith's website, if you live in NC, you cant buy directly from him (online atleast)
warranty, returns, & cancellations.
I warranty all of my products against substantive defects in material or workmanship. However, as the bulk of these items are non-decorative; no warranty is off
eimkeith.com
"*North Carolina Sales: As of January 1st, 2021, all NC sales must go through one of my dealers or installers. I appreciate you all patronizing these guys; they’re working hard for your business!"
- Thread starter
- #29
^^^ This ^^^
I bought and he promptly and politely refunded me. Pointed me to his dealers - none of whom show parts for 80's. I just reached out to him to see what other options there might be. I wonder if a quick trip to his place and some cash money could overcome the NC prohibition?
I bought and he promptly and politely refunded me. Pointed me to his dealers - none of whom show parts for 80's. I just reached out to him to see what other options there might be. I wonder if a quick trip to his place and some cash money could overcome the NC prohibition?
I ran into the same problem. I called him to tell him that none of his dealers sold 80 parts and he sent me the part in the mail. I got it the next day. I still need to run by there and pay him for it.
I just messaged Keith on IG. He said for us to order from Alpine Performance and Offroad. Apparently they are NC-based. Call Brian at 704-657-1131 to place your order.
Call David miller and have him buy it.
- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks Dave - He sent me to Albert at Mill Creek who's in Tennessee. Guy sent me an invoice yesterday which I paid so we'll see how long it takes to get here. I suggested to Albert that I pay him and he have Keith drop ship it directly to me since I'm around the corner.
So, here's a question - while I'm in there - should I be replacing bushings on all these arms etc.? Truck has <100K miles on it and I haven't looked closely yet at the bushings. Is it a "only if they're cracked" thing or "they're gonna crack soon since the truck is 25 years old now" thing?
It can never hurt to replace the bushings. They are old. That being said, it’s not a fun job and I didn’t take my own advice with my truck. Still rocking my originals. Up to you. If you do replace them, go with OEM. Poly is not a good solution. Aftermarket will wear out quickly.
I offer very flexible repayment schedules and charge very low interest rates in comparison with the normal Auto Title Loan companies here in SC.
- Thread starter
- #36
Folks, sorry to revive this thread but my shimmy still exists and I'd like to sort it out. A few updates:
Thanks
- I lost the drop brackets and installed the Slee plates for a 4" lift. At the time, I didn't see any torn bushings but I didn't replace them either.
- I installed the eimkeith panhard brackets and adjusted for the proper lift
- Not that it matters, but I'm running a part-time kit so there's no driveline involvement
- The shimmy comes on 40-50mph but not consistently so... It's like a tire out of balance / phase
Thanks
fourtrax
SILVER Star
what does your alignment show after the above changes.
how are your panhard bar bushings. any cracks on the frame side mount?
how is the tread wear on the front tires.
how are your panhard bar bushings. any cracks on the frame side mount?
how is the tread wear on the front tires.
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- Thread starter
- #39
I haven’t been back to the alignment shop as I didn’t think it would help me sort out the big difference in castor between the two sides but I can for sure take it if y’all think it’s Worth the 100 bucks?
I have one of those digital angle finders - was thinking of pulling the tires / wheels and putting it on top of the knuckle while on jack stands - wouldn’t that confirm a difference in knuckle angle? If it is that different, I’m guessing I need a new housing?
On the rebuild, I can pull all the knuckle stuff and check preload with the fish scale again if y’all think that’s the next step?
Thanks for all the advice and keep it coming!!
I have one of those digital angle finders - was thinking of pulling the tires / wheels and putting it on top of the knuckle while on jack stands - wouldn’t that confirm a difference in knuckle angle? If it is that different, I’m guessing I need a new housing?
On the rebuild, I can pull all the knuckle stuff and check preload with the fish scale again if y’all think that’s the next step?
Thanks for all the advice and keep it coming!!
This bushing is done. It's time for new ones.Selected Bushing:
Used a long pry bar between the frame and the control arm, if this cracks open up when you level in the pry bar, time for new ones.
They might last a few more years, but they'll contribute to sloppy handling.
Factory spec is 3⁰ +/- 1⁰.
Looking at your pics, yes.
At 25+ years old, the rubber is not gonna be in good shape. Miles is kind of not relevant here just because of the age of the rubber.
I'm still rocking original stock suspension in my current '93. It mostly rides like a Cadillac. Mine would definitely benefit from new bushes.
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