I haven’t been back to the alignment shop as I didn’t think it would help me sort out the big difference in castor between the two sides but I can for sure take it if y’all think it’s Worth the 100 bucks?
I have one of those digital angle finders - was thinking of pulling the tires / wheels and putting it on top of the knuckle while on jack stands - wouldn’t that confirm a difference in knuckle angle? If it is that different, I’m guessing I need a new housing?
On the rebuild, I can pull all the knuckle stuff and check preload with the fish scale again if y’all think that’s the next step?
just check the wheels for play - lift the fronts off the ground, grab the tire at 10:00 and 2:00 and see if it rocks. This is how you can check if a wheel bearing is going bad or needs to be tightened. You can also just pull the tires and spin the hub (assuming your brakes aren't dragging at all) to see how the preload "feels". I doubt this is "it" but something to check easily and rule out.
Digital angle finder on the knuckle flats will give you a good indication of caster but unless you know you are on perfectly flat ground, it's only a rough estimate. But, it could give you a good idea if the two sides are out of phase. If so, that's a bit of a head scratcher to me - maybe others have seen that before but I would think it would be an indication of wreck damage or something wonky.
If the axle was bent you might see it in the radius arm or bushing bulge, but you would probably have some noticable tire wear. Any changes if you rotate tires or try running a buddies tires?
Pull a drive shaft. Engage CDL, take it for a drive. Replace try with other shaft out
If the axle was bent you might see it in the radius arm or bushing bulge, but you would probably have some noticable tire wear. Any changes if you rotate tires or try running a buddies tires?
Pull a drive shaft. Engage CDL, take it for a drive. Replace try with other shaft out
No noticeable differences with rotation. I may go get the tires balanced to see if they see anything. On driveshafts, it's part-time so the front isn't rotating and the rear is a brand new OEM drive shaft.
The biggest problem with death wobble is there is a variety of things that can cause it or a large combo of things.
When you did the front end rebuild were the trunion bearings and races replaced?
Check for hairline cracks near the steering box and on the panhard mount.
How old are the radius arm bushings?
Tires balanced?? If large tires use balancing beads
Rotors in good shape?
It's hard to see but a bend in the axle can cause it.
Check all suspension bolts to make sure they are torqued to spec.
Eventually you will need an alignment if only just for the numbers to see if they have improves.
No noticeable differences with rotation. I may go get the tires balanced to see if they see anything. On driveshafts, it's part-time so the front isn't rotating and the rear is a brand new OEM drive shaft.
Oddly enough I have a very similar wobble/vibration at 40 to 50mph. I'm regeared with 4.88's and I think my problems started after rubbing my rear driveshaft on Dickey Bell. My suspicion is that your rear driveshaft might not be balanced. Installing the 7pin mod and diff lock switch will enable your center diff locker in high range. Once the CDL is engaged, you can enable front drive and safely remove the rear drive shaft but still drive the vehicle around.
With the rear driveshaft out, you can quickly determine if it's a driveline problem or a tire problem.
For my particular issue, I think my rear driveshaft is out of balance and causes the vibration at 40 and another vibration at 80. I need to pull my rear driveshaft to confirm.
