LJ78 Build: "The Space Whale" (2 Viewers)

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@gannex , Impressive getting it out with a regular screw! Preservance wins in the end.

As far as using easy outs / extractors, the advantage is the twist is opposite of a normal screw and it loosens the broken pieces as it digs in deeper. But you gots yours out without damaging anything, and that was the goal. Same end state, nice job!
 

GTSSportCoupe

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@gannex , Impressive getting it out with a regular screw! Preservance wins in the end.

As far as using easy outs / extractors, the advantage is the twist is opposite of a normal screw and it loosens the broken pieces as it digs in deeper. But you gots yours out without damaging anything, and that was the goal. Same end state, nice job!

I don't think he got it out yet? Just preparing to do it?

@gannex My memory is dim, but I think the way I got mine out was:

- I drilled out the broken glow tip very carefully. I did NOT drill right through it, as this would have dropped metal bits into the cylinder (bad idea). But drilling into it served to weaken it and make it easier to get out. Blew the hole out with compressed air.

- Then I tapped the glow plug tip with an appropriate tap thread. Blew the hole out again. Sprayed some 'Move It' into the hole (my favorite penetrating oil). May have left it over night to soak in.

- I welded a matching (thread matches tapped hole) screw to the end of a bolt. The bolt had a nut on it.

- I threaded the screw end into the tapped glow plug tip. I held the end of the bolt part with a wrench, and I tightened the nut against the cylinder head surface with another wrench. Basically a 'puller' tool. As I kept tightening the nut it slowly pulled out the glow plug tip.

- I could swear I'd kept this 'tool' somewhere, but have looked around and not been able to find it. If I had it, I'd have lent it. Will look again and see what I can find.
 
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@GTSSportCoupe @Dprio34
It looks like I've screwed something up...

Today I tried to adjust the steering box to reduce the steering play, so I removed the air filter, loosened the lock nut on the steering box, and tightened the screw about 1/4 turn. It seemed to tighten the steering column play nicely, so I put the air filter back on and...

I tried to start her up again to test the steering, but now all of a sudden it won't idle. I start it up and give it a bit of gas to around 900-1000 rpm, with the harsh startup as usual, but when I drop the throttle, instead of idling harshly and gradually clearing up like it did before, the RPMs just immediately drop off and the engine makes a bunch of squeaky sounds and dies.

There's absolutely no way this could be related to my adjusting the steering box, is there? That doesn't seem to make sense. All I can think of is that I might've bumped something somewhere else in the engine, or that it could be related to the air intake. Have you guys got any ideas?
 
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@gannex , Definitely not related to the steering box.
You said, you took the air filter out...Is it possible something is blocking / preventing air from going to the turbo?

I would check for blockages from the Air Filter - Turbo Air Hose - up to the Turbo, first.
Try taking the air filter out and see it it starts / Make sure nothing got sucked into the Air Filter Hose.
You won't hurt anything temporarily trying to start it without the filter on, assuming you not in your wood shop or dusty place.

Also, did you end up getting that broken glow plug out yet?
 
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@gannex , Definitely not related to the steering box.
You said, you took the air filter out...Is it possible something is blocking / preventing air from going to the turbo?

I would check for blockages from the Air Filter - Turbo Air Hose - up to the Turbo, first.
Try taking the air filter out and see it it starts / Make sure nothing got sucked into the Air Filter Hose.
You won't hurt anything temporarily trying to start it without the filter on, assuming you not in your wood shop or dusty place.

Also, did you end up getting that broken glow plug out yet?

I took the air filter off completely. Still won't start. Starts very harshly and keeps running while I give it gas, but as soon as I take my foot off the throttle it chokes and dies. I have no idea what I did. I was driving around this morning...
 
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Well, sounds weird for sure... but if it isn't an air issue, it has to be a fuel issue.
Check the easy stuff first... linkage / return spring on the throttle body, leaks at / around the injection pump??

But... what about the "squeaky" noise? Did you change the tension on your Power Steering Pump or
Alternator Belts?

Did you change anything on the EGR System?
 
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Well, sounds weird for sure... but if it isn't an air issue, it has to be a fuel issue.
Check the easy stuff first... linkage / return spring on the throttle body, leaks at / around the injection pump??

But... what about the "squeaky" noise? Did you change the tension on your Power Steering Pump or
Alternator Belts?

All I did was tigten the screw on the steering box!
 

GTSSportCoupe

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I took the air filter off completely. Still won't start. Starts very harshly and keeps running while I give it gas, but as soon as I take my foot off the throttle it chokes and dies. I have no idea what I did. I was driving around this morning...

Did you undo any battery grounds in that area? Too late tonight for me to go out and look in that area around mine. But I have had a similar issue when I messed with one of the smaller grounds off my battery before.

Try pulling the ECU error codes. You have to jumper two pins in the diagnostic connector box (TE1 to E1 or something like that). Put the key to 'on' and read out the check engine light flashes. Toyota 2LTE error codes

Hopefully your timing belt didn't give up the ghost.

Check the connectors around your injection pump too. Make sure all is good.

Make sure you're not running out of fuel.

Check your throttle position sensor is plugged in.
 
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Did you undo any battery grounds in that area? Too late tonight for me to go out and look in that area around mine. But I have had a similar issue when I messed with one of the smaller grounds off my battery before.

I didn't touch the battery at all


Did you undo any battery grounds in that area? Too late tonight for me to go out and look in that area around mine. But I have had a similar issue when I messed with one of the smaller grounds off my battery before.

Try pulling the ECU error codes. You have to jumper two pins in the diagnostic connector box (TE1 to E1 or something like that). Put the key to 'on' and read out the check engine light flashes. Toyota 2LTE error codes

I'll check

Hopefully your timing belt didn't give up the ghost.

How would I know?

Check the connectors around your injection pump too. Make sure all is good.

I was having a really similar issue a few weeks ago when one of the connectors on the injection pump was loose! But they all seem to be properly connected now. It was the same thing though. The engine would start up and then the RPMs would gradually drop and it would die. That was when my mechanic friend was still helping me. he found that one of those connectors was loose and plugged it back in, and the problem went away.

Check your throttle position sensor is plugged in.

will do.
 

GTSSportCoupe

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I was having a really similar issue a few weeks ago when one of the connectors on the injection pump was loose! But they all seem to be properly connected now. It was the same thing though. The engine would start up and then the RPMs would gradually drop and it would die. That was when my mechanic friend was still helping me. he found that one of those connectors was loose and plugged it back in, and the problem went away.

On second thought, timing belt is probably fine or pistons would be hitting valves. It could have lost a couple teeth, but I doubt it.

I think having had this problem before is your main clue. Check all the IP connectors. The wiring harnesses on these old motors are BRITTLE; be very careful. I sure hope the wires around your IP are not cracking and breaking. I've had to fix a bunch around my motor over the years.
 
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On second thought, timing belt is probably fine or pistons would be hitting valves. It could have lost a couple teeth, but I doubt it.

I think having had this problem before is your main clue. Check all the IP connectors. The wiring harnesses on these old motors are BRITTLE; be very careful. I sure hope the wires around your IP are not cracking and breaking. I've had to fix a bunch around my motor over the years.

I believe it was the grey plug (next to the orange one) on the IP that was coming loose before. I tried pulling it out and plugging it back in again, made sure everything else seemed tight, and I've still got the same problem. It starts up and then RPMs slowly drop. Around 400 RPM, the engine starts to jiggle violently and make a squeaking sound, and then it stalls.
 

GTSSportCoupe

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I believe it was the grey plug (next to the orange one) on the IP that was coming loose before. I tried pulling it out and plugging it back in again, made sure everything else seemed tight, and I've still got the same problem. It starts up and then RPMs slowly drop. Around 400 RPM, the engine starts to jiggle violently and make a squeaking sound, and then it stalls.

Pull the codes and let us know what comes up. And check all the wires carefully (for damage) in that area when it's light out. The two critical wire sets to the IP are the pump timing (Ne) sensor and the spill control valve. Timing control valve is important, but not as critical. The two calibration resistors are also important but not as critical.

These trucks are a tough way to learn how to wrench.... I started on 80's Tercels and worked my way up from there.
 
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Pull the codes and let us know what comes up. And check all the wires carefully (for damage) in that area when it's light out. The two critical wire sets to the IP are the pump timing (Ne) sensor and the spill control valve. Timing control valve is important, but not as critical. The two calibration resistors are also important but not as critical.

These trucks are a tough way to learn how to wrench.... I started on 80's Tercels and worked my way up from there.

Where is the OBD1 port on this thing?

This is definitely a tricky truck to work on. Up until now, I was a lot more confident about it because I had a friend with a lot of experience to help me out with it. The plan was, he was going to go over all this maintenance stuff with me the first time so that I'd be able to do it again in the future...

I can't find the OBD1 port, but I checked the fuses in the power outlet. The 10A fuse in the "IG" port was blown. I'm getting another one to replace it now. But what is "IG"?...
 

GTSSportCoupe

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Where is the OBD1 port on this thing?

This is definitely a tricky truck to work on. Up until now, I was a lot more confident about it because I had a friend with a lot of experience to help me out with it. The plan was, he was going to go over all this maintenance stuff with me the first time so that I'd be able to do it again in the future...

I can't find the OBD1 port, but I checked the fuses in the power outlet. The 10A fuse in the "IG" port was blown. I'm getting another one to replace it now. But what is "IG"?...

Most mechanics who know diesel cruisers, don't actually know the early electronic diesels very well (or even later ones like 1HDFTE etc. for example).

Anyhow, the diagnostic connector box is in the engine bay on the passenger side inner fender. Attached very close to your boost sensor. It's a little grey box that opens up. Inside the lid it shows all the terminals. Use a piece of wire to carefully jumper TE1 to E1.

I can only help so much by internet and typing, but I think the 10A IG fuse might be 'Ignition' fuse? I'm sorry, I'm out of time to help tonight. Download the electrical diagrams I'm pretty sure I sent you a link to. They're translated to english. They show where all these components are, and what the fuses connect to.
 
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Most mechanics who know diesel cruisers, don't actually know the early electronic diesels very well (or even later ones like 1HDFTE etc. for example).

Anyhow, the diagnostic connector box is in the engine bay on the passenger side inner fender. Attached very close to your boost sensor. It's a little grey box that opens up. Inside the lid it shows all the terminals. Use a piece of wire to carefully jumper TE1 to E1.

I can only help so much by internet and typing, but I think the 10A IG fuse might be 'Ignition' fuse? I'm sorry, I'm out of time to help tonight. Download the electrical diagrams I'm pretty sure I sent you a link to. They're translated to english. They show where all these components are, and what the fuses connect to.

Okay so I replaced the fuse, but it didn't affect the idling issue.

I found the OBD1. It was stuck in the hole in the side of the engine bay, loose, by my battery. I shorted the connectors and turned on my ignition, and the check engine light just flashes regularly. I think it doesn't have any codes.

I think the Space Whale needs to see a professional at this point. I'm going to bring it to EBI cruisers. But I'd still at least like to get it running moderately well to drive there, rather than having to get a tow. I have no idea how this happened, as all I did was adjust the steering box. It seems like the steering box adjustment worked, but I couldn't even test it out, as I couldn't get it started after that. The issue seems similar to how it was when one of those fuel pump leads was unplugged, but everything seems to be good there, so I'm clueless at this point.

...edit: I wonder if it could be related to the glow plug hole on cylinder 2. The hole was originally plugged with a bolt and it looks like the previous owner added some automotive silicone to seal up that bolt. After I pulled the bolt to check how deep the broken glowplug tip was, I didn't put any silicone on it when I put it back on. I wonder if there could be a vacuum leak through that hole. It would seem to me to be a good enough seal, but I guess the negative pressure on that hole could be very high. The weird thing is I was able to drive fine for a couple of days, then I parked, and now this...
 
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I doubt it would be the glow plug hole; if that were the case the engine would just run on three cylinders. Also, the pressures on that bolt due to compression will be orders of magnitude higher than the vacuum, if anything you'd be hearing whistling from the pressurized cylinder gasses escaping past. To me this sounds very much like an electrical problem, and it doesn't necessarily have to be related to anything you touched when adjusting the steering box. My current Prado (before I tore it apart) would occasionally die while I was driving, when I disassembled the engine loom I discovered several frayed and cracked wires and a couple of poor quality repairs. It's totally possible that you have some decaying wires in the engine bay as well, I would suggest taking a close look at them in good light, and even try jiggling the looms gently and see if anything changes.

If you have a working manual throttle knob you could dial the revs up to 1000rpm to keep it running and limp it to a mechanics shop if all else fails.
 
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To me this sounds very much like an electrical problem, and it doesn't necessarily have to be related to anything you touched when adjusting the steering box. My current Prado (before I tore it apart) would occasionally die while I was driving, when I disassembled the engine loom I discovered several frayed and cracked wires and a couple of poor quality repairs. It's totally possible that you have some decaying wires in the engine bay as well, I would suggest taking a close look at them in good light, and even try jiggling the looms gently and see if anything changes.

I think that sounds reasonable. The issue feels a lot like the issue I was experiencing when I first restarted the truck after 2 months hiatus and my friend found a loose lead in the side of the fuel pump

If you have a working manual throttle knob you could dial the revs up to 1000rpm to keep it running and limp it to a mechanics shop if all else fails.

Is that the little screw with the notch in it for a flat head?
 
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The manual throttle knob looks like this, and is located on the lower right portion of the dash, near the door. Depress the throttle pedal and turn the knob clockwise until you feel it take up the tension on the pedal.
Screen Shot 2020-12-09 at 2.15.47 AM.png
 
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The manual throttle knob looks like this, and is located on the lower right portion of the dash, near the door. Depress the throttle pedal and turn the knob clockwise until you feel it take up the tension on the pedal.

I don't see such a knob. Could it be the little nut next to the cable for the hood latch here?

20201209_012139.jpg


I found a random wire not connected to anything. I wonder if this could be related... I will continue to investigate in the morning. What is confusing me is how this could be happened so suddenly. I was driving around this morning!

20201209_012803.jpg
 
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@gannex , the other day when you were in the glow plug area and re-attached some vaccum lines for the EGR system, there are a lot of brittle wires & connectors in that area. Definitely worth re-inspecting that area.

Maybe this is a long shot, but pull off your cross over pipe/ inter cooler pipe & elbow at the intake and remove the butter fly valve above your intake manifold.. This way you could at least cross lack of sufficient air off the list of possible causes. While you were at it, I’d remove the entire EGR system. Nick & AirNutHead may be able to advise much better, what codes if any this with through to you ECU.

Keep us posted.

405020FB-81B7-4037-B8A0-77AE805FF6BC.jpeg
 

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