LJ70- 2LTE Repair Adventure! :D (1 Viewer)

[danktank]

@Dprio34
Thanks for the reply,
Have noted the information.

the timing belt number is correct. Works fine and lasts a long time.

Managed to get the timing belt last Thursday.

Get a brand new Voltage Regular while you are at it. Avoid used stuff as much as possible.

The alternator is the Integrated I/C regulator type with front mounted vac pump. Haha

Regarding fake Toyota parts....I’d say, stay focused on your project.

Will try to focus. Am indeed the kind of guy who is really easy to be carried away by all sort of worries.

Mitsuboshi also makes belts / crosses with you alternator V belts.

Ooh, Ok. Will check for part number and see if the local shop have it.

 

[danktank]

@GTSSportCoupe
Thanks for the reply
Apologies for the late reply.

If it were me, I'd replace the broken injection pump. It can be done on the engine, but is a lot of work for sure. 4hrs out, 4hrs in about.

Hmmm, Ok
Will attempt it someday..... someday... (Hope that day will come)

*inhales deeply while thinking about all the possibilities of the process going wrong* XD

It is unknown waters for me to pull the pump out so will be quite a wild ride. haha

Any tips or tricks to tighten/loosen the inner nut holding the injection pump to the timing case?
Don't have enough space to fit a standard 12mm wrench...
A 1/4' 12mm socket with a U-Joint doesn't seem to tighten it well either...

Many of the regulator/rectifier parts are interchangeable with other Toyota alternators. You can probably use Megazip drawings to figure it out.

Ahh, Ok
Will check it out.

 

[danktank]

25/5/2021 Engine Repair Update
Finally got the timing belt case from a local shop. (yay!)
It is new old stock from 1991...
Old but work just fine.
Really a hassle to find... but hey, got it. XD
Junkyard ones are mostly cracked or incomplete.

Alternator is also tested and repaired for a reasonable price at a reputable shop.
Only the rectifier was replaced.
The shop says everything else is fine.
2 Weeks warranty.

Does anyone happen to know the torque spec for the alternator vacuum pump oil inlet banjo bolt, pivot bolt and adjustor locking bolt?
Couldn't find it anywhere in RM520E (main manual), RM169E(supplement manual) nor the body and chassis manual...

Also, can the copper washers of the vacuum pump oil feed banjo be reused?

Can't wait to get it on the road again!

-Tee

 

[Dprio34]

@danktank , with the new timing case / oil pump, make sure you pack the oil pump gear with some Vaseline or some such product to get it to prime. Otherwise, you risk damaging the engine... just a friendly reminder.

Pivot Bolt on the alternator = very very tight! I use a breaker bar to tighten it. Ballpark, 70-75 ftlbs. Mine would come lose on occasion at the suggested setting. Get a permanent marker to mark your known location So it will be easier to spot any movement. Consider buying brand new bolt there or upgrading to grade 8 or 10.

 

[danktank]

Hey @Dprio34,
Thanks for the reply, duly noted!

Will likely apply blue thread lock to all the bolts as most of them were loose during disassembly.

 

[danktank]

June was burned... Had somethings come up and not enough time to attend to the car...
Welp, (hope the engine isn't seized)
Lockdown until I can't even keep track of time anymore...

Went to test fit the timing belt cover before putting everything back.
Of the 11 bolt holding it on, I only have 5 of it left.
The remaining 6 is missing before I even took off the cover few months back...
Tested each of the hole with one bolt with good thread to ensure the threads are in good condition.
7 out of 11 bolt holes are stripped clean!
The bolt could slide in and out...
I wonder what did the mechanics used to tighten it...
Need to helicoil the holes before reinstalling everything...

Is it really necessary to use shoulder bolt to secure the cover or could I substitute the missing bolts with standard m6 bolt?

 

[Dprio34]

@danktank , sorry to hear your Oil Pump Body Casing is stripped out where you bolt of the Timing Cover. That is a pretty labor intensive job to replace that Oil Pump Body. The stockTiming Cover bolts are cheap. Maybe $2-3 dollars each. I recommend using stock bolts, otherwise you may be sucking a lot of dust and dirt inside the timing case which wouldn't be ideal if you used regular bolts.

 

[danktank]

5/7/2021 update:

Manage to put everything back together! XD

@Dprio34 hmmm, ok
Have substituted the timing belt cover bolts with standard m6 shoulder bolt instead for now as all my automotive parts sources say "we don't sell fasteners".
Will see if could order from somewhere else in the future.
The spacing, diameter and thread size is identical to the original factory ones, except for the head.
Did not have a drill short enough to fit between the engine and radiator so left the threads as is for now... (Didn't want to drain the coolant)
The bolts are slightly oversize and manage to tighten up within the hole tho
Applied plenty of thread lock and it manage to hold up.
The plastic belt cover seals properly too (nice)

Ran like a dream on the first start and no longer shudders during idle like previously.

Now that worn out idlers (A/C and Power Steering) are replaced and it quieten down by a lot, there are some new sounds...

There is a 'tick tick tick tick' sound audible on the intake side of the engine...
Seems to come from the cylinder head area.
Gets more frequent as revs increase even after warm up...
Also there is a popping sound from the same area? (Hard to describe... sounds like the cat popping meme)
()


Have rechecked fan belt tension and all 4 belts and pulleys are running true.
Everything is tightened properly too...

Any possible cause for the noise? should I be concerned?

 

[danktank]

End of November turbo productivity mode

WIPER VERY SLUGGISH, even on high
12 volt at motor connection verified so removed the wiper motor (and broke the linkage bushing in the process).
Linkage feels smooth, does not bind.

Grease inside gearbox is completely hardened making the movement pretty stiff.
Brushes still got plenty left.
Rotor winding does not seem burnt


Gear in wiper motor gearbox is made of plastic (nylon maybe?)
Is silicone grease suitable for gear lubrication?
What other kind of greases are recommended for plastic to metal lubrication?


Have not fully taken it apart nor cleaned anything yet.

 

[danktank]

Ohhh no

Are the wiper linkages bushings..... replacable...?

The bushings are waaaay to crispy...

 

[danktank]

Is silicone grease suitable for gear lubrication?
What other kind of greases are recommended for plastic to metal lubrication?

Are the wiper linkages bushings..... replacable...?

Anyone?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Anyone?

You'll get more response if you start a new thread just about this problem.