open the hood and let it dry out for a few days with the battery unhooked
Lit up like a christmas tree :( (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter lp2k
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+100000
On alternator
Same happened to me when my alternator whent bad, I did not replace it, I had it rebuilt.
With luck when it dries out, it might come back to life, if NOT and you cant afford a stock one, just have it rebuilt.
On alternator
Same happened to me when my alternator whent bad, I did not replace it, I had it rebuilt.
With luck when it dries out, it might come back to life, if NOT and you cant afford a stock one, just have it rebuilt.
brian
SILVER Star
unloading an 80 off a roll back took all day?
Wah wah wah. You do realize your truck is 18 years old right? Do you expect parts to last forever? Quit your whining or sell your truck.
You should sell the rig and purchase a new Corolla.
These rigs are old, when you purchase one, you should also purchase factory manuals so you can learn to deal with the issues that are sure to come up.
Coming on this board and whining about an 18 year old vehicle that the majority of the members love with a burning passion will get you nothing.
These rigs are old, when you purchase one, you should also purchase factory manuals so you can learn to deal with the issues that are sure to come up.
Coming on this board and whining about an 18 year old vehicle that the majority of the members love with a burning passion will get you nothing.
Depending on your access to tools and 
ability, you could have probably resolved this issue on your own. If you chose to make it someone else's problem, that's a different story.
All of us have probably been a little over zealous cleaning the engine bay and had the same thing (or similar) happen. In the unlikely event your alternator is toast, they are fairly simple to rebuild. If you chose to replace it, be sure to read the threads on here about problems people have had with aftermarket alternators. In my experience your bet is to go with an OEM unit.
ability, you could have probably resolved this issue on your own. If you chose to make it someone else's problem, that's a different story. All of us have probably been a little over zealous cleaning the engine bay and had the same thing (or similar) happen. In the unlikely event your alternator is toast, they are fairly simple to rebuild. If you chose to replace it, be sure to read the threads on here about problems people have had with aftermarket alternators. In my experience your bet is to go with an OEM unit.
Next time, and just for reference, try cleaning your engine bay with the motor hot and running. NEVER use high pressure, and keep the spray away from any obvious electrical components (dizzy, alternator, battery, exposed connectors, etc). Basically, the spray wash should only be used to clean the inside of the fenders and the back of the motor, maybe the left side of the block. When you're done, keep the motor running and drive it for a bit, the heat should dry everything pretty quick. Been doing it this way a couple of times a year with no problems.
If you want to really clean the motor right, you need a rag, elbow grease and degreaser/brake cleaner.
If you want to really clean the motor right, you need a rag, elbow grease and degreaser/brake cleaner.
...to back off a little from the heat you're taking...the reason your truck is acting up has to do with the fact that either you cleaned the engine bay with high pressure hose and degreaser (better way to do this is steam clean, which uses no pressure), or your alternator is dying as everyone has said. It's just the reality. And I don't care if you rant. But better to ask for solutions here, we're all solving demons in our 18+ year old Land Cruisers (you're not alone).
If you're going to have your alternator changed, it's probably worth it to replace the (likely not OEM) belts with new OEM units. This is just good PM and will help make sure you don't run into issues in the future with belt failure. A 18 year old vehicle could very well have a non-functional alternator.
The EGR code PO401 has been covered a ton in this forum. There is good info. This code does not affect the reliability or functionality of the truck in a strict sense, so don't worry about it. However, if you have to pass smog, having the EGR working properly is key. It seems the place to start with this is to replace the VSV for EGR. I'll add that you should also replace ALL the hoses in the EGR system (some are likely clogged, decreasing the effectiveness of the system) and bypass the upper intake manifold through-pipe from the EGR Valve to the VSV for EGR. There is also a large internal to the upper intake manifold bore from the EGR valve direct into the upper intake - this gets clogged too and needs to be cleaned. I have started replacing parts of my EGR system and I have seen an increase in mileage. The light is still on. Whatever. I'll get to the bottom of it eventually.
Complaining about the hitch is like complaining about needing new tires - this is your call and you knew it when you got into the truck. Don't add it to your headache of things that need to be fixed.
The tint and bodywork is your personal decision...most of us are more than ok with a rough and tumble 80. Although I did have a super clean one prior to my current one and that was nice.
All aside, what you've got going on is short term and will not plaque you in the future, once it's solved. Getting that engine compartment all dried out (when it stops raining down there in FL) will likely solve at least part of it.
Oh yeah - if you need to order parts, check pricing with any of the 'Mud vendors. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the pricing for OEM parts.
Good luck with your demon...
