Lift Install Help -Removing front coilover help!

[Jah310]

I'm in the process of installing new BP-51 shocks and SPC upper control arms on a new to me 2009 LC. I'm working on the front driver side and well I haven't been able to quite get the strut out. I'm having serious trouble lowering the lower control arm far enough to pop out the bottom of the coil over. I'v read a few different install instructions / methods. One suggests unbolting and disconnecting the sway bar linkage bolts and levering the arm down (OME BP 51 install directions). The other method (Icon Coil over instructions) suggest I loosen the lower control arm chassis bolts to free the lower arm bushing tension. Their instructions don't mention anything about loosening the sway bar linkage bolts or the steering arm bolts? They also don't mention this to be an issue?

Has anyone had the same problem (not being able to push the LCA far enough to pop out the strut. This evening I tried leveraging with a 4 foot metal pole and while i got closer, still no dice. I'm honestly not sure what's keep the LCA up - I suppose the bushings?

Here is a link i have going on EXPO - came here to mud for more technical knowledge.

Jah310 Land Cruiser Build - Expedition Portal

Any help, tips, experience would bd appreciated.

Thanks you! Thank you!

 

[619TOY]

I ended up using a piece of pipe as a lever just like you. If the OME's are anything like the icon's, you have way more trouble getting the new ones in as removing the stock ones. Despite reading about loosening the control bolts myself, I chose not to I started my lift by myself, but luckily a buddy came by just as I was about to throw something

I would highly recommend against disconnecting any sway bar links, KDSS is not your friend...

 

[Jah310]

I ended up using a piece of pipe as a lever just like you. If the OME's are anything like the icon's, you have way more trouble getting the new ones in as removing the stock ones. Despite reading about loosening the control bolts myself, I chose not to I started my lift by myself, but luckily a buddy came by just as I was about to throw something

I would highly recommend against disconnecting any sway bar links, KDSS is not your friend...

Thanks for the feedback. Didn't see your comments until after finally getting the darn thing out.

For better or worse I ended up loosening the control bolts and it made a huge difference. The strut popped right out.

Regarding not removing the sway bar links - I've now heard that twice. The frustrating part is the OME directions specifically say to disconnect. Argh. Hopefully with a bit of jack work I can get it put back together.

I managed to get the new UCA installed...so now it's off to getting the strut in and putting it back together. Taking my time....

Thanks again.

 

[mark71]

Just remember not to tighten the control arm bolts until the vehicle is on the ground.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks for the feedback. Didn't see your comments until after finally getting the darn thing out.

For better or worse I ended up loosening the control bolts and it made a huge difference. The strut popped right out.

Regarding not removing the sway bar links - I've now heard that twice. The frustrating part is the OME directions specifically say to disconnect. Argh. Hopefully with a bit of jack work I can get it put back together.

I managed to get the new UCA installed...so now it's off to getting the strut in and putting it back together. Taking my time....

Thanks again.

Did your supplier offer any install tech/help?

 

[TexAZ]

KDSS....love it....hate it....

that's a C clamp, jack, breaker bar and socket all on the sway bar linkage to get it all lined back up.
mine was a little harder due to tundra lower arms, but undoubtedly a P.I.T.A even with stock lowers.

mark the position of the lower control arm bolts, then loosen them. do not remove!. remove the two ball joint bolts from the steering to the lower control arm and the lower control arm will drop low enough to swap the coilovers. it also helps to ziptie/bailing wire the upper control arm up a little so that it doesn't hit the spring. it'll get all kinds of hung up right about the point where you want to bash the whole thing with a sledge hammer.

 

[jclarke450]

@TexAZ , I think I remember that setup/view

 

[TexAZ]

@jclarke450 when are we doing yours? learned a lot from my experiences..should be a breeze next time around!!!!

 

[Jah310]

Thanks everyone... appreciate the help! Managed to get the drivers side put back together. It's not final final assembly as I'm going to need to dial in the preload. I'm going to finish installing everything including the rear, put the truck back on the ground and see how it all measures out. I'll see how much I need to adjust the preload and then take the coils to a shop with a wall mounted spring compressor. Adjusting the rings seems to be impossible both in and out of the car. Guess that's why the directions call for putting the units on a compressor and then adjusting the preload ring...?

I'm for sure have a love hate relationship with the KDSS...

I'll keep you guys posted as I'm undoubtedly going to run into more challenges.

Thanks again!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

You will absolutely have to adjust preload with a compressor and more specifically one set up to do the BP51, not all compressors will. Trying to adjust without it preloaded can damage the preload collar and/or the coil over body. The OME specs for preload should get you close, discuss your build plan (lift height, bumpers, winch, other front load) with your shop retailer and they should be able to recommend a preload height to achieve the correct net lift height.

 

[Markuson]

You will absolutely have to adjust preload with a compressor and more specifically one set up to do the BP51, not all compressors will. Trying to adjust without it preloaded can damage the preload collar and/or the coil over body. The OME specs for preload should get you close, discuss your build plan (lift height, bumpers, winch, other front load) with your shop retailer and they should be able to recommend a preload height to achieve the correct net lift height.

What Kurt said...and seconded, after having a shop try to lazy their way through and force the preload adjustment without compressing first. Beat the living poop out of the ring and left it reeeeally beat up.

 

[NLScooby]

Thanks everyone... appreciate the help! Managed to get the drivers side put back together. It's not final final assembly as I'm going to need to dial in the preload. I'm going to finish installing everything including the rear, put the truck back on the ground and see how it all measures out. I'll see how much I need to adjust the preload and then take the coils to a shop with a wall mounted spring compressor. Adjusting the rings seems to be impossible both in and out of the car. Guess that's why the directions call for putting the units on a compressor and then adjusting the preload ring...?

I'm for sure have a love hate relationship with the KDSS...

I'll keep you guys posted as I'm undoubtedly going to run into more challenges.

Thanks again!

So you are going to put it back together and then remove them again? Glutton for punishment?

I have been reading your posts since I am envisioning doing this lift myself as well. Of course I will have to wait until the kids are nowhere near the house as I tend to have temporary bouts with profanity laced turrets syndrome when things don't go as planned...and they rarely do!

 

[TexAZ]

The job isn't that difficult if you can pick up on the tips others have learned from doing the install.
Open the KDSS valves 3 turns.
Loosening the lower control arm bolts (after marking their position) is the biggest thing to make the job easier. remove the linkage from the KDSS arm. remove the two bolts from the bottom of the steering knuckle. use bailing wire to hold the upper and knuckle from dropping and remove the coilover. replace the coilover...
use a floor jack to raise the lower control arm. line up the lower shock bolt then jack up more to start the two bolts on the lower ball joint/steering knuckle.

use the floor jack to raise the KDSS arm to align the linkage bolt.
PUT LOCKTITE on the threads of the KDSS linkage bolt. there is a thread where the shop didn't torque the bolts or use locktite and the KDSS came off!!
put vehicle back on the ground and Torque everything.

skull drag that newly lifted beauty to an alignment shop!

look cool knowing you did it yourself.

My difficulty came from replacing the lower control arms. the buckets for the KDSS linkage get crushed during install, making it F*$*%N impossible to line everything up during the rebuild. If I did it again I would use a porta-power to open the buckets up enough to ease alignment of the bolts. Other than that, relatively straight forward weekend job....

 

[Jah310]

Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated.


When calling around in search of a local shop that can handle the spring compression, what should I ask them about their spring compressor to ensure the BP51s will fit / work. Is there something specific I should point to, or am I better off just going to the shop with the springs and discussing direct? Didn't know if there was something simple I could ask.


Thanks again.

You will absolutely have to adjust preload with a compressor and more specifically one set up to do the BP51, not all compressors will. Trying to adjust without it preloaded can damage the preload collar and/or the coil over body. The OME specs for preload should get you close, discuss your build plan (lift height, bumpers, winch, other front load) with your shop retailer and they should be able to recommend a preload height to achieve the correct net lift height.

 

[Jah310]

Haha! Yes a few f bombs may or may not have been heard. That being said I'm still having a blast...

 

[Jah310]

The job isn't that difficult if you can pick up on the tips others have learned from doing the install.
Open the KDSS valves 3 turns.
Loosening the lower control arm bolts (after marking their position) is the biggest thing to make the job easier. remove the linkage from the KDSS arm. remove the two bolts from the bottom of the steering knuckle. use bailing wire to hold the upper and knuckle from dropping and remove the coilover. replace the coilover...
use a floor jack to raise the lower control arm. line up the lower shock bolt then jack up more to start the two bolts on the lower ball joint/steering knuckle.

use the floor jack to raise the KDSS arm to align the linkage bolt.
PUT LOCKTITE on the threads of the KDSS linkage bolt. there is a thread where the shop didn't torque the bolts or use locktite and the KDSS came off!!
put vehicle back on the ground and Torque everything.

skull drag that newly lifted beauty to an alignment shop!

look cool knowing you did it yourself.

My difficulty came from replacing the lower control arms. the buckets for the KDSS linkage get crushed during install, making it F*$*%N impossible to line everything up during the rebuild. If I did it again I would use a porta-power to open the buckets up enough to ease alignment of the bolts. Other than that, relatively straight forward weekend job....

Awesome! That is pretty much exactly what I ended up doing, it just took me a long while to figure it all out. Loosening the lower control arms was key for me.

Appreciate all the support - you guys rock!

 

[arich]

You want a compressor that grabs the spring from the top and bottom, 6 forks. The old traditional type has three forks and then pushes on the strut hat, this type will NOT work.
Sorry no pics.
You cannot adjust the BP51s unless you receive the pressure off the preset without damaging it and forget trying to adjust it on the truck.
I have only 5mm of preload with no additional weight up front.

 

[Markuson]

You want a compressor that grabs the spring from the top and bottom, 6 forks. The old traditional type has three forks and then pushes on the strut hat, this type will NOT work.
Sorry no pics.
You cannot adjust the BP51s unless you receive the pressure off the preset without damaging it and forget trying to adjust it on the truck.
I have only 5mm of preload with no additional weight up front.

ARB says 0mm preload for stock, but I adjusted mine to 5mm and that feels about right (chose that based on @arich 's setting).
My only complaint is that the rear now sits a bit higher than the front.

-If I had it to do over, I'd likely add the Toyota spacers to get closer to level without adding additional preload to the coilover.

Once more weight is added (bumper/winch), more preload will be added & might add the spacers then, too.

 

[NLScooby]

Not to derail this thread, but you can add the spacers without having to totally remove the coilover, correct?

 

[Jah310]

ARB says 0mm preload for stock, but I adjusted mine to 5mm and that feels about right (chose that based on @arich 's setting).
My only complaint is that the rear now sits a bit higher than the front.

-If I had it to do over, I'd likely add the Toyota spacers to get closer to level without adding additional preload to the coilover.

Once more weight is added (bumper/winch), more preload will be added & might add the spacers then, too.

@ Markuson - What rear springs are you running? I've got a set of OME 2722 that I'll need to install. Thanks for the feedback...