I would like some input on a build up. My mini is a daily driver, but I would also like to use it for some off-roading (nothing too hardcore). Would 33's or 35's be better and what kind of lift (suspension or body) would work for each tire setup. Thanks.
Lift and tires
- Thread starter wancho1
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What kind of 4wheeling do you want to be able to do?
Downey
SILVER Star
I totally agree with Brian Gallus choice of springs. I might consider 33" or 34" tires (less big tire bull s***). I would prefer 4.88 over 5.29 gears----Stronger. Nothing better than LSD's, except only choice is becoming True Trac since everything else is becoming extinct OR poo-poo choice.
If you are going for moderate rock crawling I'll tell you this much, I built an 80 pu with EFI, detroit rear, 4 inch procomp lift (went with mazda rears after a while), stock steering (yeah yeah), and a 5 speed conversion (you already have one). I ran 33x13.5 swamper LTB's and that truck did a lot more than I thought it would. A locker will be the most helpful out of all that. I wouldn't waste any time with a limited slip in the rear, maybe in the front. Almost anyone I've ever known that put a true-trac in the rear moved it up front and put a real locker in the back after a while. My pro-comp front springs actually flexed really well, the rears, not so much. Downey makes good springs, I also have like superlift (fronts only) and I am about to get an old man emu lift on my truck. Ill let you know how it works out. I think any bolt on lift will do fine unless you are going to get into hardcore crawling, then youll need to go the crossover/marlin/allpro route. Sounds like 33's will get you most places you plan on going.
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Lower gears and a locker will way more than make up for smaller tires...
Yes, but they do nothing to aid in teaching a person how to drive.
I like 35's on the 1st gen due to the larger wheel well openings. 5.29's are plenty strong if installed correctly - I've had 4 trucks w/ 5.29's now and nary a problem. Be cautious of the True-trac. I like them, but be sure you get one with that uses fine thread carrier bolts rather than course thread - the course thread units have a tendency to come apart.
Yes, but they do nothing to aid in teaching a person how to drive.
Thats the BEST statement I have ever heard on this forum, They'd lynch you in 80's tech
Theres only 20 people in 100's/Taco dont know I dont go there
Love it, live it
on a side note I lernt to drive w/o 4wd, locked my hubs and made it a game to myself NOT to get stuck.
If I got stuck reached down put her in gear
3 inch Downey springs my friend!!!!!! Great springs, I have wheeled them many times and love them...... I run a 33 inch tire with a rear lockright have not had an issue yet and have not regeared (better fuel mileage since I do a lot of highway driving 
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He wasn't asking about how to learn.....
s*** on a first gen you could fit 33's stock if you like your sawzall and bfh. Too bad it won't take care of that whole reverse arch broken spine thing the front end does to you when you hit a good bump, anyone that says pro-comp front springs are stiff didnt spend much time on their stockers 
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Yes, but they do nothing to aid in teaching a person how to drive.
...
There is some merit to the learn to drive argument, but how long must someone be stuck in this "learning purgatory", one trail, a year or just long enough to learn the bad habits, like momentum wheeling?
Then put the locker in and learn that slamming over obstacles with momentum it's necessary, they can be taken slow and controlled, saving the vehicle and driver wear and tear. The Aussie locker is well proven and is what ~$300? IMHO the the #1 "bang for the buck" mod, tossing one in the rear axle will increase the wheeling capability more than lifts, tires, etc. If driven properly it will reduce breakage, obstacles can be taken slow and controlled.
... They'd lynch you in 80's tech
...
Yes, I own a locked 80 and post in 80's tech, but started "wheelin" in the mid '70's in a VW Baja, followed closely by a FJ40, didn't own a locked rig until relatively recently.
Going to 33s on a DD without regearing will cause a significant reduction in power and gas mileage. 5th gear will be useful only when going downhill on the highway. 
A 3-4" lift and 33s will work for moderate off-road use. For rock crawling, you really need to consider dual t-cases or going to 4.7 gears in the current t-case to lower your crawl speed.
My 83 currently has 35s with a 4" lift, crossover steering, 4.7 t-case gears and 5.29s w/lockers. It is very capable for rock crawling and will average 18-20 mpg at 65-70mph and would be acceptable as a daily driver if necessary.
A 3-4" lift and 33s will work for moderate off-road use. For rock crawling, you really need to consider dual t-cases or going to 4.7 gears in the current t-case to lower your crawl speed. My 83 currently has 35s with a 4" lift, crossover steering, 4.7 t-case gears and 5.29s w/lockers. It is very capable for rock crawling and will average 18-20 mpg at 65-70mph and would be acceptable as a daily driver if necessary.
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Cruising AZ trails = dealing with rock, pretty much unavoidable. For an effective AZ rig my advice is the biggest tires that will fit (to deal with the rocks) with the shortest lift possible (keep the CG low).
The stock mini steering setup isn't up to the challenge, I wouldn't dump any $$$ into it. Swap to an IFS steering box and high steer, Marlin, Trail gear, etc make nice kits, some complete with springs, etc, complete matched package.
Some of the aftermarket springs are very nice, but if $$$ are an issue and you have fab skills, many have built very effective rigs by moving the stock rear springs to the front and replacing the rears with chevy, ford, heep, etc. Some links to good posts on the subject in this thread, spool down to springs, CHEVY SPRINGS FAQ, REARS SPRINGS UP FRONT, etc.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180
For an effective AZ rig my advice is the biggest tires that will fit (to deal with the rocks) with the shortest lift possible (keep the CG low).The stock mini steering setup isn't up to the challenge, I wouldn't dump any $$$ into it. Swap to an IFS steering box and high steer, Marlin, Trail gear, etc make nice kits, some complete with springs, etc, complete matched package.
Some of the aftermarket springs are very nice, but if $$$ are an issue and you have fab skills, many have built very effective rigs by moving the stock rear springs to the front and replacing the rears with chevy, ford, heep, etc. Some links to good posts on the subject in this thread, spool down to springs, CHEVY SPRINGS FAQ, REARS SPRINGS UP FRONT, etc.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180
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Alot of good info guys, thanks! I'm thinking 35's with 3-4" lift. Would that still be ok on the road, since it's my DD. I'm also working on getting more power. Whether by cams and carb for the 22r or by doing a swap. It just want to get out on the trails. The stock suspension gets me by, but takes a beating. Would the stock engine be able to push the 35's?
Stock engine is fine w/ 35's ***IF*** you gear the axles properly. Throw some 5.29's in the diffs and enjoy. Do this before you throw money into engine modifications.
Since it's somewhat related, what sort of gear ratios would folks here recommend for the various tire sizes ranging from 31 to say 36 or 37?
I've currently got 31s, can easily fit 33s, and will probably have room in the future for at least 35s. So if the plan is to eventually run 35s, I might as well go ahead and buy stout enough gears to run them now and only deal with it once, rather than re-gearing every time I buy new tires.
I see people mention 5.29, but would 4.88 be enough to power 35s or even 37s?
I'm using a '87 4runner as a daily driver, so I probably won't be swapping out the 22re any time in the near future, but I wouldn't mind having a little more power to the wheels.
Edit: Also, what sort of modifications would be in order to make the speedometer read accurately after changing the gears or running larger tires?
I've currently got 31s, can easily fit 33s, and will probably have room in the future for at least 35s. So if the plan is to eventually run 35s, I might as well go ahead and buy stout enough gears to run them now and only deal with it once, rather than re-gearing every time I buy new tires.
I see people mention 5.29, but would 4.88 be enough to power 35s or even 37s?
I'm using a '87 4runner as a daily driver, so I probably won't be swapping out the 22re any time in the near future, but I wouldn't mind having a little more power to the wheels.
Edit: Also, what sort of modifications would be in order to make the speedometer read accurately after changing the gears or running larger tires?
I can't speak specifically to your 87, however on my 83 I run 5.29s with 35s and the speedometer is very close to actual (within 1-2mph). 5.29s might be a bit much for 33s, although if you don't do a lot of freeway driving, they might be ok. If you only go to 4.88s and run 35s, you will suffer a noticeable power loss as well as speedometer inaccruacy.
Prior to installing the 5.29s, I had stock gears (4.10) and 33s. With that combo, I seldom used 5th gear and gas mileage ran around 14-16 on the highway. With 35s and 5.29s I can use 5th gear again and can manage to pull most freeway grades here in the midwest without downshifting. Gas mileage is up to 18-20mpg.
Does the 87 use a cable driven speedometer? I assume since my 90 did, that the 87 does as well. Perhaps a different gear (if available) could be used?
Prior to installing the 5.29s, I had stock gears (4.10) and 33s. With that combo, I seldom used 5th gear and gas mileage ran around 14-16 on the highway. With 35s and 5.29s I can use 5th gear again and can manage to pull most freeway grades here in the midwest without downshifting. Gas mileage is up to 18-20mpg.
Does the 87 use a cable driven speedometer? I assume since my 90 did, that the 87 does as well. Perhaps a different gear (if available) could be used?
