Lexie the Comfort Cruiser

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So last weekend I replaced my steering rack in suspect of it being the cause of my issues I was experiencing. Well no feed back on that yet... because I twisted the return line in half before I could even realize it.

So a new set of high pressure lines are on their way and I'll be finishing up the job this weekend. My question is since I will have a new rack, new lines, and a clean reservoir, should I try to flush the pump some way before i bleed the system?

On a separate note pics will be coming soon... Photobucket is really sucking right now, if anyone has a hosting site they like let me know. I wish I could host from google drive :rolleyes:
 
On a separate note pics will be coming soon... Photobucket is really sucking right now, if anyone has a hosting site they like let me know. I wish I could host from google drive :rolleyes:

Upload here :) This will help prevent the broken link issue other posts have when people clean up their photobucket/image hosting account.
 
Upload here :) This will help prevent the broken link issue other posts have when people clean up their photobucket/image hosting account.

What he said ^^

Or I like Flickr. I used to use Photobucket but switched years ago and haven't looked back.
I'll give it a shot, just skeptical after the T4R forum (run by same platform) lost or broke all my image links hosted through the forum. Plus it's nice to have an external source to host.

I'll look into Flickr for general use but might just start hosting all forum related photos on here.
 
This is awesome.
 
Nice 4R and 100. Really like some of those pics are any of them in OK? How do you like those weathertech mats so far? Where is that steep driveway? Nice job on the lights. On my BFG ko2 (old style) they had a shim around 70 for a while. Never got around to re-balancing them. Now at 1/2 worn they are smooth as glass.
 
Last edited:
This is awesome.
Thanks man
Nice 4R and 100. Really like some of those pics are they in OK? How do you like those weathertech mats so far? Where is that steep driveway? Nice job on the lights. On my BFG ko2 (old style) they had a shim around 70 for a while. Never got around to re-balancing them. Now at 1/2 worn they are smooth as glass.
Thanks! Some of the pics are in Oklahoma, most from trips in Colorado.

Im a huge fan of the weather techs! Some people on the forum have expressed their frustration with how their mats don't fit 100% perfect, but mine fit pretty great and do their job well. I had a set of husky liners in my 4R and by the time I sold it, they had worn and morphed to the point where they were basically rounded out. Had the weather techs in my dodge and cruiser and no complaints out of both sets.

Honestly I'm a fan of my KO2s. I was blaming them at first for a lot of my front end issues, but at this point I have ruled them out. Hopefully the steering rack fixes my issues because nothing else is worn on the front end. KO2s roll smooth as glass after a road force balance though.
 
So heres some photos from my steering rack job. Started it two weekends ago, everything came off smoothly except for the rear pressure line coming from the rack. The line twisted off inside the sleeve, making it impossible for me to know it was twisting until it was too late. Nobody in town had a replacement and I could not form one myself.

full

full


I had to leave the cruiser in the garage all week while I waited on replacement hoses from Rock Auto. I went with the Sunsong lines, others have used these on the forum. The lines showed up and were honestly good quality. Everything lined up and works great, I couldn't justify spending another $600 on new OEM lines.

full


As I was removing the old pressure line from the pump, the banjo wouldn't break before the pressure port union it was screwed into turned. Well after 30 minutes of cussing and cut up fingers, I got it loose. Once I pulled it out, I realized the turn stop thats attached to the line had bent, allowing the pressure air control valve to break.. :bang: At this point I am just completely frustrated, thinking I was going to have to have the cruiser down for yet another week waiting on parts. Thankfully the local napa warehouse had one in stock!

full


With basically a completely whole new steering system besides the pump and reservoir, I figured I would flush out the reservoir real good. I was surprised at how well my fluid looked when emptying it from the system, but I was even more amazed at how clean the reservoir was before cleaning... This pic is before cleaning with degreaser and water.

full


Hooked everything back up and filled the system. As I began to bleed, the system came to life with the apparent ps pump whine, which disappeared once I bled all the air out of the system.

Wow! I am so happy to have a fresh steering rack in there! It made a huge difference on steering precision and tracking on the highway. Didn't solve all of my issues, but I think they are primarily alignment related. More pics from the install:

full

full

full
 
That reservoir looks great. It is cleaner (before you started) than mine was after I cleaned it.

Good job on the steering rack replacement.
 
Update:

Haven't done much to the cruiser lately besides maintenance (oil changes, etc), and currently I am dealing with a broken sway bar bolt in the rear that I can't extract for the life of me (i broke off a bit in the bolt while trying to drill it out :mad:). If anyone has an extraction suggestion let me know. Anyway, on to the exciting stuff. Looks like I will be replacing the AHC in the near future with a full Tough Dog setup from Trail Tailor. My AHC has gotten pretty dang uncomfortable between the worn out rear globes and extremely worn shock bushings. Instead of dumping more money into the system, I have just decided to swap it out. It will make me feel better in the long run.

So look for updates on that coming soon, and if anyone wants to call dibs on AHC parts (including king coils and shock spacers) PM me.
 
Dealing with two broken bolts for the rear stabilizer bar brackets that hang off the frame rails. I am real close to just welding them on. Have been unsuccessful with extraction
 
Dealing with two broken bolts for the rear stabilizer bar brackets that hang off the frame rails. I am real close to just welding them on. Have been unsuccessful with extraction
Thankfully I'm luckier than that, the only one that broke on me was the driver's side bolt on the outside of the frame. But breaking that bit pretty much screwed me. I have considered running a small bead on the upper part of the bracket, but really would like to stay with the factory setup.
 
Nice work. A smart man you are that uses Kano Kroil! Thanks for the tip on the lines.

Keep us posted on the tough dog setup. It is on the radar.

How bad is that bit jammed in there? Not sure if this will help you or not but I have had to cut a drill bit out in the past on another vehicle with a torch and use a thread repair. Broken drill bits and taps are extremely hard to extract because of the hardened tool steel that they are usually made of.

We have been using Kimball Midwest drills at my work which seem to be very good so far.
 
Was your intermediate shaft binding/clunking as well? I have a clunk in the steering wheel, and I'm thinking it could be the IS
 
Nice work. A smart man you are that uses Kano Kroil! Thanks for the tip on the lines.

Keep us posted on the tough dog setup. It is on the radar.

How bad is that bit jammed in there? Not sure if this will help you or not but I have had to cut a drill bit out in the past on another vehicle with a torch and use a thread repair. Broken drill bits and taps are extremely hard to extract because of the hardened tool steel that they are usually made of.

We have been using Kimball Midwest drills at my work which seem to be very good so far.
Thanks! The bit is pretty stuck in there... I've tried hitting it with a better drill bit, only to dull said bit. I think the torch is my next option, just worried about messing up the threads despite the hours under my belt using an acetylene torch. I guess if I fubar it, I can always just weld the bracket on.

Was your intermediate shaft binding/clunking as well? I have a clunk in the steering wheel, and I'm thinking it could be the IS
No, my IS was pretty tight. I've never experienced IS play on any Toyota I've owned, it's always turned out to be the rack or TREs. I would rule those out first, then check the u-joint on the shaft.
 
Sorry, what's TREs?
 
Tie Rod Ends?
 
When you say rule out the rack, you just mean bushings? What's a standard method for ruling out the rack as the reason for the Steering Clunk? I had the truck jacked up this last weekend, and the TREs didn't budge. The PO replaced the Steering Rack in 2015, but I also have a weak pump (I believe) so it's hard to tell *what* the issue really is.
 
When you say rule out the rack, you just mean bushings? What's a standard method for ruling out the rack as the reason for the Steering Clunk? I had the truck jacked up this last weekend, and the TREs didn't budge. The PO replaced the Steering Rack in 2015, but I also have a weak pump (I believe) so it's hard to tell *what* the issue really is.
To check rack bushings, have someone turn the wheel back and forth (car on, both wheels on the ground) and see if the rack shifts back and forth. To check the tie rods: Jack up one side of the front, with the tires on, and check for movement back and forth (by prying on the tire at 3 & 9 o'clock). Check movement in all linkages, tie rod ends, and rack. If you have to, take off the rack bellows (the protective boots) and check the inner tie rods. I doubt your rack or inner tie rods are bad.

I would check tie rod ends first, ball joints, and even sway bar linkage before I looked at the rack. There are many things that can cause issues. Is it a clunk? or a pop?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom