Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (6 Viewers)

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Ok, So I did retest my vacuum switches that are located under the upper intake. They all test within spec except the EGR VSV:
as per FSM 1994:
Resistance: 30 - 34 OHM at 68 f. Mine tests at 41 OHM at about 70 f.

So here is my quandary. I am rerouting my vacuum line on the EGR Vacuum Modulator like @baldilocks described in an earlier post. I'm Checking out the EGR system diagrams in the FSM and I cannot really understand if this switch is still important to have functioning correctly. My sense is that it doesn't impact the rest of the vacuum system at all and I don't really need to replace it since I'm disabling the EGR with this vacuum modification, but my understanding of how I'm modifying this system is low. I've never messed with my emission control equipment before removing my PAIR valve.

As always your input is welcome, and here are my diagrams and chart from my 1994 edition FSM:

Turns out having a paper and a digital FSM are important if you have lots of questions to ask...

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I'll add that I haven't really looked this up yet, but surfing around mud is obviously part of my plan too.

 

[FMC80]

Greg, did you get anywhere on this? I couldn't find the remark from Baldilocks on what he did/what you're trying to do.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Greg, did you get anywhere on this? I couldn't find the remark from Baldilocks on what he did/what you're trying to do.

Not yet, been busy not freezing to death and helping friends with frozen pipes. I love cold! But houses here aren’t designed with these temps in mind.

As for the egr I’ll follow this photo from @baldilocks’s rig and loop the egr vacuum modulator hose to itself and disable the egr this way. In effect I believe that configured this way the egr cannot open….but I still haven’t researched my question to see if the egr vsv needs to be functional for the benefit of the rest of the vacuum system. Hopefully I’ll stop playing with my kids LEGOS d get this figured out tomorrow.

 

[FMC80]

I see, I bought the resistor mod and took the lazy way out. Get after it brother, she needs to be on the road!

 

[Spdstr280Z]

I'm no expert, and don't have any miles on it yet, but I removed the EGR VSV completely (also a 93) after doing the same research you are doing. I also have Wits' End keychains covering the EGR holes (until I can afford new working parts of course.... ). I only have the evap purge under there now. Maybe the fuel pressure VSV too, I honestly don't remember. I have been working on this thing for way too long.

Oh, and thanks I know know a little about the Salish Sea, I'm surprised I don't remember ever hearing the area called that before.

Jason.

 

[Spdstr280Z]

I see, I bought the resistor mod and took the lazy way out. Get after it brother, she needs to be on the road!

93's already have the resistor mod installed factory !

Jason

 

[baldilocks]

Not yet, been busy not freezing to death and helping friends with frozen pipes. I love cold! But houses here aren’t designed with these temps in mind.

As for the egr I’ll follow this photo from @baldilocks’s rig and loop the egr vacuum modulator hose to itself and disable the egr this way. In effect I believe that configured this way the egr cannot open….but I still haven’t researched my question to see if the egr vsv needs to be functional for the benefit of the rest of the vacuum system. Hopefully I’ll stop playing with my kids LEGOS d get this figured out tomorrow.View attachment 2878698

Looks suspiciously familiar. No, the egr valve will not open. The egr VSV is open creating an internal flow through path for vacuum. When it’s activated it closes the loop allowing vacuum to open the the egr valve. With those tubes doubled back she won’t open. Of course you could remove the entire system.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Looks suspiciously familiar. No, the egr valve will not open. The egr VSV is open creating an internal flow through path for vacuum. When it’s activated it closes the loop allowing vacuum to open the the egr valve. With those tubes doubled back she won’t open. Of course you could remove the entire system.

Photo credits to you!

I think I’m leaning towards leaving it all in place (with the eve modulator looped) and keeping the out of spec vsv bolted under the intake. I’ve been reading lots of great “desmog” threads, but while many are in agreement with the disabling of the egr and PAIR delete, the ones that “removed all vacuum lines etc” are not quite what I want to achieve (or are somewhat vague about how the vacuum system should function without the various vsv’s hooked up. I’ll try and spell this out more clearly as I hone in on what my specific hang ups would be, but I’m still researching…

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

93's already have the resistor mod installed factory !

Jason

Thanks! This means more to me now than it did a day ago!

 

[FMC80]

93's already have the resistor mod installed factory !

Jason

Not sure what you mean. I mean I bought the resistor mod from a vendor to disable my EGR on my 94. How does that apply to G’s 93?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Not sure what you mean. I mean I bought the resistor mod from a vendor to disable my EGR on my 94. How does that apply to G’s 93?

My 'mud research indicates that the wiring harness on the 93 already has the factory plug installed into the wiring harness as it was not supplied with a temp sensor in the EGR. That came later and for the 95+ crowd it increases the complexity of EGR delete and avoiding codes. If you required a resistor mod and you didn't remove a plug then you have a mystery. Maybe somebody messed with your EGR? IIRC your PO was a automotive electrical genius--perhaps they also dabbled in desmoging? Or maybe the '94 did come with the temp sensor?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

The quest continues. I stand torn between a complete desmog and just disabling the EGR and PAIR (already done). At this point the PAIR and EGR VSVs now appear to serve no purpose, but I am hesitant to modify the vacuum routing to eliminate them. I am reluctant to eliminate the charcoal canister, because I am uncomfortable venting/managing fuel vapor in my engine bay. I know many have done this with no issue, but its all about the risk that I am comfortable with as I drive my whole family around lonesome places. In general I'm not opposed to the idea of emission controls in vehicles. In fact if the EGR system in the 1FZ-FE was added in a way that didn't cook the wiring harness or lead to HG failures Id probably try and keep it, but thats a mute point.

Since its still only 30 degrees outside and Im not interested in breaking any more plastic things, I'll continue to search for more info for my partial desmog and plan it out. Once I have a proper plan I'll post it up. I am going blind reading about the emission system. I will have a look over on the rising sun forum where I'm a lurker. Onward.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Fuel Injector Connectors are replaced. Photos are blurry and unhelpful, so I’ll spare you. My pin removal tool didn’t really work. The ambient air temp was around 33 and the internal tabs holding the pins kept breaking. The retaining tabs in the old connectors then were jammed and totally prevented me from removing the connectors peacefully. So instead of fighting the cold brittle plastic, I took the direct approach and slowly squeezed each connector with a pair of pliers until it begged for mercy before shattering. Then I brushed off the pieces of ruined plastic and slid on the new connectors. A dab of dielectric grease in the pins and now they are all securely connected to the fuel injectors.

 

[FMC80]

Great work, G. When do you think you’ll be done and cruising the land again?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Great work, G. When do you think you’ll be done and cruising the land again?

Well at this rate when you finish painting your rig…

Im not sure. I think I’m about done with the “while you’re in there” stuff, so hopefully I’ll get around to bolting things up soon. Family time has been a top priority lately, and it’s been so cold I’ve made very little progress. I should have a bunch of time next week to get things wrapped up, but I have been trying to enjoy the process.

 

[bpenn1980]

I’ve said it before, but I always feel a little jealous reading the threads from 10+ years ago that refer to calling cDan for a parts order. It would be sweet to just have a go to place for all of it.

Three things
1) I just read your thread for two hours straight and loved it. Thank you.

2) I'm incredibly jealous of the bro'mance happening in the PNW over OBD1 80 ownership. Screw you guys.

3) I was away from 'mud for years just driving my cruiser enjoying the fruits of preventative maintenance (and ignoring oil leaks). I recently returned and learned that time had been divided into Dan and PostDan epochs. It wasnt just one stop shopping, it was the incredible sense of security felt knowing he would absolutely make sure you added every little required gasket, bushing, pin, bolt, washer, etc to your order because he KNEW you would need it, even if you didnt know it yourself.

Unfortunately I'll have to read the last few pages tomorrow, but thank you

Cheers!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

1) I just read your thread for two hours straight and loved it. Thank you.

You're welcome! Imagine how good it will be when I can actually drive this thing around! I've learned a lot in the last couple of years all thanks to the 'mud community. Thanks for taking the time to say so.

2) I'm incredibly jealous of the bro'mance happening in the PNW over OBD1 80 ownership. Screw you guys.

PNWOBD1FTW!

3) I was away from 'mud for years just driving my cruiser enjoying the fruits of preventative maintenance (and ignoring oil leaks). I recently returned and learned that time had been divided into PreDan and PostDan epochs. It wasnt just one stop shopping, it was the incredible sense of security felt knowing he would absolutely make sure you added every little required gasket, bushing, pin, bolt, washer, etc to your order because he KNEW you would need it, even if you didnt know it yourself.

Unfortunately I'll have to read the last few pages tomorrow, but thank you

^^This. I think you captured this whole CDan era of mud so well, not just parts but the confidence that somebody wanted you to b successful fixing your rig and made sure you got what you needed. I just feel lucky I can read about it all and then glean the information.

 

[Dusten]

You're welcome! Imagine how good it will be when I can actually drive this thing around! I've learned a lot in the last couple of years all thanks to the 'mud community. Thanks for taking the time to say so.

PNWOBD1FTW!

^^This. I think you captured this whole Clan era of mud so well, not just parts but the confidence that somebody wanted you to b successful fixing your rig and made sure you got what you needed. I just feel lucky I can read about it all and then glean the information.

I'm obdnone, can I still join?

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Wee Update...

It keeps snowing here. Don't get me wrong I love snow. I'm a skier. I love winter camping, throwing snowballs, pulling the e-brake on my Subaru to low speed slide around and make my kids squeal. And I really love winter beer. We have Kitten Mittens from Kushan Brewing, and you probably do not and Im very sorry that is the case. I digress. I also used to love driving my 1993 Toyota Land Cruiser in the snow...but its hard to work on the rig for more than a couple of hours when its below 30 in the shop...for me. I know. It could be worse...I could be in Hawaii dropping wrenches on my slipper shod feet like @FMC80

So I did manage to get a brief amount work done today in my garage, but im still a ways out from driving the truck around again. Today's efforts were to clean up the work bench of all the holiday/snowpocolypse detritus and get organized--This happened. No photos to prove it. I also managed to check the valve clearances and I am very happy to report they are all within the FSM spec. If they weren't within spec I would be on yet another learning journey.

I also was curious about what the inside of my fuel filter was like so I cut it open. It wasn't especially dirty looking to me, but I don't have much to compare it too.

I think I've made my Vacuum/EGR decision for now. I'm planning on a low intervention approach and I'm just leaving the vacuum routing including all the VSVs in place and plumbed other than the missing PAIR and the EGR Vacuum loop disable ala @baldilocks. I think I could be happy without all the emissions stuff...stuffed under there, but I worry that I am going to create a new and more complex problem that I won't be able to solve...especially since I'm still new and learning and I won't be able to lean on the FSM for guidance in the same way as if I keep stuff. I also realize that this isn't a very good argument since I've already removed the PAIR and disabled the EGR.... Ok well Im not totally sure yet, but this is the direction I'm leaning.

I picked up a 1/4" drive torque wrench today, which should help me not destroy my VC bolts tomorrow. I should have bought a shop heater too, but I'm trying to conserve funds. Mrs. PNWTreeOctopus and I have been discussing regearing the cruiser. Were in the feasibility study part today...but the dream would be to pull the diffs, send them to a smart person who knows how to set up the R&P....and install a pair of ARB air lockers. I want a magic dial too. This is a pretty big expensive project, and the truck still needs castor correction. I'd be sad to pull the diffs and not put lockers in too. But it's a boat load of coin and feels a little out of sync with the other needs of the truck.

Oh and a trip to UT is back in the works for the spring....but maybe just SE Oregon again. It's my favorite...heck maybe I'll even go to NW NV!

I have more time tomorrow devoted to the cruiser, so I'll dig out my super warm clothing and see what I can get accomplished.