i've done s*** like that for so long i quit cussing when it happens,rub some grease and oil on it.....be fine in a couple of days.......oh yea and beer
Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter PNWTreeOctopus
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PNWTreeOctopus
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- #102
Wow. Well I’m spent, but I have it all
Back together!!!
..we’ll sort of. I’m going to start on the brakes tomorrow. But the axle is done, other than gear oil. That feels really good to have that part of my base line finished. I’m too tired for step six, but im sure some cold beer is in my future.
Back together!!!
..we’ll sort of. I’m going to start on the brakes tomorrow. But the axle is done, other than gear oil. That feels really good to have that part of my base line finished. I’m too tired for step six, but im sure some cold beer is in my future.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #103
Ok I started removing brake components, something I’ve never done before. My plan was to use the Toyota rebuild kits and refresh the existing calipers...but alas they match the rest of the cruiser and are a bit neglected.
The pistons were not moving in or out. I futilely tried to use my tiny compressor to blow them out. Sounds easy, but no luck. So after reading a few threads on rebuilding calipers, I followed their advice and picked up some fresh ones from NAPA. So my budget got trashed, but it should go quickly from here forward. I’m replacing all my soft lines with extended OEM ones. The old ones are circa 1993
The pistons were not moving in or out. I futilely tried to use my tiny compressor to blow them out. Sounds easy, but no luck. So after reading a few threads on rebuilding calipers, I followed their advice and picked up some fresh ones from NAPA. So my budget got trashed, but it should go quickly from here forward. I’m replacing all my soft lines with extended OEM ones. The old ones are circa 1993
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #104
Here an example of the old lines
So I’m feeling good about replacing these parts.
So I’m feeling good about replacing these parts.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #105
Had a helper in the garage today, she was wondering why we weren’t tossing bumpers in the lake.
I bolted on my calipers and replaced The soft lines up front. I struggled a bit with the flares on the hardlines, but got them tightened down. I did replace the PS axle to frame soft line with a longer one, but it was a giant pain. The soft line fitting didn’t fit the bracket as the hose is not for the LC. I took it to my vise filed down the fittings until I could seat them in the brackets and clip them in. They tried to spin when I tightened them, so I carefully used a visegrip to hold them while I tightened them. So the part numbers for extended OEM brake lines are not 100% compatible for the 93-94.
The left side is the original, the right side is my new longer hose that needed to be filed down to mate with the bracket.
anyhow the front is all finished up, but when I attempted to put my new Toyota pads in, I realized I didn’t get any anti squeal shine. I’m ordering a front kit, so I can get these front wheels back on and start the back!
I bolted on my calipers and replaced The soft lines up front. I struggled a bit with the flares on the hardlines, but got them tightened down. I did replace the PS axle to frame soft line with a longer one, but it was a giant pain. The soft line fitting didn’t fit the bracket as the hose is not for the LC. I took it to my vise filed down the fittings until I could seat them in the brackets and clip them in. They tried to spin when I tightened them, so I carefully used a visegrip to hold them while I tightened them. So the part numbers for extended OEM brake lines are not 100% compatible for the 93-94.
The left side is the original, the right side is my new longer hose that needed to be filed down to mate with the bracket.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #106
So I’m nearly finished with the brake baselining. I have replaced all the Toyota rubber soft lines with OEM rubbber lines including the extended options widely discussed in other threads. The truck has four shiny new Toyota OEM rotors and a set of new calipers from Napa....total eclipse/ lunar mania....they have a goofy name. I’m waiting on a box from McGeorge Toyota with a rear anti squeal shim kit, and another box with a front anti squeal shim kit, then my new Toyota pads can go in. I opted for 80 series pads, rather than the 100’s since everything was new and I though fitment would be it’s most tricky when the rotors were at their absolute thickest. So hopefully I’ll be able to get these final details sorted and bleed the system. I’ve never tried to bleed a brake system, and the stories on mud are a bit intimidating, but I hope that with fresh hoses and new calipers things should go pretty well. If all works well I’ll get to drive in the snow, thus activating my ABS for the bleeding process. But northwest snow is a fickle event.
My rig has been in the garage so long I’ve forgotten what it’s like to lord over the rest of traffic.
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
Pull the gasket then the glass sand prime paint and replace. Its only going to get worse.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #108
Ok, not much to update here, I attempted to solo bleed my brakes early this week with the plastic bottle/ plastic tubing method, but I really wasn’t successful. I managed to spot a leaking fitting where I hadn’t torqued down the hardline to soft line conntion property. I was also disappointed to discover that unlike the front brake anti squeal shim kit which has provisions for both brakes the rear kit only does one side of the vehicle. So the left rear caliper has anti squeal shims and right side does not. I have test to order a second part, local dealer wants $30+ McGeorge charged me $25 shipped. So I’ll get another set on order and dump them in.
I have a date with my wife to bleed the brakes Saturday morning, so if all goes well I ought to be able to close the book on the front axle and brake chapter.
I’m planning on getting after the drivers side power seat, which doesnt move front and back but needs the gamviti plastic gear repair. I’d also really like to put in a speedo correction for my wife (and I). I think the marks 4wd kit looks pretty straightforward. But I need to do some more research before I send $200 bucks to Australia...
I have a date with my wife to bleed the brakes Saturday morning, so if all goes well I ought to be able to close the book on the front axle and brake chapter.
I’m planning on getting after the drivers side power seat, which doesnt move front and back but needs the gamviti plastic gear repair. I’d also really like to put in a speedo correction for my wife (and I). I think the marks 4wd kit looks pretty straightforward. But I need to do some more research before I send $200 bucks to Australia...
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #109
After two rounds of bleeding , including the master, the truck will stop! The pedal is a bit soft, but it seems to be forming up as I drive it. I was able to actuate the abs a bunch of times on some left over snow, but I wasn’t able to bleed afterwards. My wife was a good sport sitting in the truck helping me by pushing the pedal. Anyhow I’m back on the road and putting miles on the truck, which feels great! My kids are stoked to be riding in it again.
I’ll check those knuckle arm bolts and look for play in the bearings after I rack up a hundred miles. I’ll wait until things get a bit warmer before I tackle the oil leaks and baseline the coolent system.
I’ll check those knuckle arm bolts and look for play in the bearings after I rack up a hundred miles. I’ll wait until things get a bit warmer before I tackle the oil leaks and baseline the coolent system.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #110
Well a brief update before I begin the next round of baselining my rig. I’ve been enjoying using my cruiser since My knuckle rebuild and brake system work. I’ve noticed a few things that I’d like to solve since the work.
1. The brakes seem to rub a tiny bit. Not really enough to feel the truck slow, but there is a ton of dust and I can occasionally smell the brakes after some short in town driving, around 5-10 miles.
2. My steering is slightly sketchy going down steep hills with the brakes on. I have a long steep hill I drive down frequently, it’s 30mph and to keep the truck at that speed I’m using the brakes quite a bit. I notice that the truck really wanders when I’m braking down hill. It’s not especially scary, but I’ve gotten used to it. So I’m thinking this is a steering/ alignment issue rather than caliper issue since it does no happen on flat roads. I have discovered that the PO never did any castor correction with the lift. I can see what look like original rubber bushings in the lower control arms.
So I’m working on these things, an annoying rattle near rear drivers side in the body or rear door, and preparing for my leaking oil pump cover prong and other front end leaks...
1. The brakes seem to rub a tiny bit. Not really enough to feel the truck slow, but there is a ton of dust and I can occasionally smell the brakes after some short in town driving, around 5-10 miles.
2. My steering is slightly sketchy going down steep hills with the brakes on. I have a long steep hill I drive down frequently, it’s 30mph and to keep the truck at that speed I’m using the brakes quite a bit. I notice that the truck really wanders when I’m braking down hill. It’s not especially scary, but I’ve gotten used to it. So I’m thinking this is a steering/ alignment issue rather than caliper issue since it does no happen on flat roads. I have discovered that the PO never did any castor correction with the lift. I can see what look like original rubber bushings in the lower control arms.
So I’m working on these things, an annoying rattle near rear drivers side in the body or rear door, and preparing for my leaking oil pump cover prong and other front end leaks...
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #111
Well I started the cooling system baseline project today. I managed to drain the coolant via the plug on the block and the lower radiator hose. I looked for the drain on the radiator and I couldn’t locate it, so I just pulled the lower hose. What a gigantic mess!
Anyhow I’m replacing the large and small hoses, as well as the thermostat, and the phh. I already replaced the radiator cap. I’m not planning on replacing anything else, and I’m sticking with green coolant since it’s easy to obtain and it’s less expensive than the Toyota red stuff.
Family time trumps wrenching time around here so the cruiser is sitting in the driveway awaiting its new hoses and coolent...
Anyhow I’m replacing the large and small hoses, as well as the thermostat, and the phh. I already replaced the radiator cap. I’m not planning on replacing anything else, and I’m sticking with green coolant since it’s easy to obtain and it’s less expensive than the Toyota red stuff.
Family time trumps wrenching time around here so the cruiser is sitting in the driveway awaiting its new hoses and coolent...
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #112
Found a problem.
This bib is distorted and the PO had a screw type hose clamp here. It may have been tightened to the point of crushing the bib. The hoses were fairly new, and in reasonable shape, and no leaks since I’ve owned it. However this is a really disappointing discovery. I have a new hose on with a factory clamp, but I’m not sure I’ll ever trust it. Putting on another screw type clamp seems like a good way to shorten the lifespan of this truck. So maybe I’m now shopping for a new radiator, unless that bib can be repaired. But is it worth it? I’m not sure I can flare that bib out to be “true” again, but would I want to?
This bib is distorted and the PO had a screw type hose clamp here. It may have been tightened to the point of crushing the bib. The hoses were fairly new, and in reasonable shape, and no leaks since I’ve owned it. However this is a really disappointing discovery. I have a new hose on with a factory clamp, but I’m not sure I’ll ever trust it. Putting on another screw type clamp seems like a good way to shorten the lifespan of this truck. So maybe I’m now shopping for a new radiator, unless that bib can be repaired. But is it worth it? I’m not sure I can flare that bib out to be “true” again, but would I want to?
I would wrap a rag around it and massage it with a set of Channellock pliers to get it back in shape! You could also use a tiny hammer and a large deep well socket to slide inside to massage, but I like this method less because it stretched the material and can leave hammer marks.
The brass on that bib is easy to re-shape.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #114
I think I’m going to give reshaping it a try. I have the wheels off and I’m going after the PHH tomorrow morning while my kids are at school. It’s looking pretty cruddy, s d I have s Wits End kit in the parts drawer with some snazzy constant pressure clips. I’ll post my results...
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #116
That was surprisingly easy!
Before:
After:
I used some soft jaw channel lock type pliers and managed to get the bib into a much better shape.
I didn’t have a socket that fit well, but my plastic/rubber hammer fit like a dream. I actually fit the plastic head into the bib and rocked the head back and forth and massaged out the crushed side of the bib. Then I used the pliers to massage the bib into the best round shape I could. I’m really happy with this result. Way better than a new radiator. Phew! Thanks for the really fast and very useful advice @BILT4ME and @IoN6. I was really dreading sharing that I needed a new rad to my lady (CFO of this family)!
Before:
After:
I used some soft jaw channel lock type pliers and managed to get the bib into a much better shape.
I didn’t have a socket that fit well, but my plastic/rubber hammer fit like a dream. I actually fit the plastic head into the bib and rocked the head back and forth and massaged out the crushed side of the bib. Then I used the pliers to massage the bib into the best round shape I could. I’m really happy with this result. Way better than a new radiator. Phew! Thanks for the really fast and very useful advice @BILT4ME and @IoN6. I was really dreading sharing that I needed a new rad to my lady (CFO of this family)!
I've done the same on some old tractors and on my Studebakers. That's why I knew what to do!
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #118
Ok truck is back up and running. I changed all 3 large hoses, the thermostat and gasket, the PHH and one of the small hoses and the radiator cap (a few weeks ago). The PHH was a pain, but nothing as tough as dealing with my ongoing reverse lights NSS connector issues. It still claimed along a d left bruises from cramming my firearm in between the firewall and some hardline, but the old one looked crappy and it had been previously changed.
I treated myself to a new aux. light switch. Took a minute to get it working right, but now I have an idiot light to tell me my lights are on and the switch won’t fall out of the dash...
The old switch is the cheesy round one. Whoever installed it had little patience to get it to fit correctly, and mangled the hole behind the switch. Sadly it probably won’t accept a plug to fill the hole. I found that PN somewhere in a post by CDAN. It’s similar to the hand throttle location plug. Maybe I’ll add a round 12v power supply there and store a flashlight. For now I’ve just got the dead switch. It was one of those things that has been bugging me since I acquired this Land Cruiser.
I treated myself to a new aux. light switch. Took a minute to get it working right, but now I have an idiot light to tell me my lights are on and the switch won’t fall out of the dash...
The old switch is the cheesy round one. Whoever installed it had little patience to get it to fit correctly, and mangled the hole behind the switch. Sadly it probably won’t accept a plug to fill the hole. I found that PN somewhere in a post by CDAN. It’s similar to the hand throttle location plug. Maybe I’ll add a round 12v power supply there and store a flashlight. For now I’ve just got the dead switch. It was one of those things that has been bugging me since I acquired this Land Cruiser.
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PNWTreeOctopus
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- #120
Well, it’s been a long while since I’ve posted much. Lots of enjoying the rig for adventures, and kid hauling duty.
Since I’m home bound until at least May I’m going to get after a few little projects on the cruiser. The only catch is that our income just s*** the bed so things are going to be cheap or free.
My first back burner project was a Hilift Jack repaint/ rebuild. Some before and after pics.
so I found this old Hi-Lift at an estate sale/ antique dealer business. They wanted something like $40, but after some back and forth I walked out with it fir $15. It had been sitting in an outdoor tool pile for a while a d was looking pretty rough. I followed an excellent thread over on ExPo about rebuilding these jacks and had it dissembled and ready to clean, strip and paint.
Some invertebrates has moved into the space behind the top clamp clevis, but had long departed leaving behind their odd tunnel like chambers. It’s hard to tell from the photo.
I spent a few hours with a wire wheel and some steel brushes and got things prepped, primed and painted.
so fresh and clean.
It still needs a quick release pin for the base, and a proper handle keeper, but I might use a piece of pool noodle with my Volié strap...since I don’t need to buy either. The climbing pins and the shear bolt appear to have had little if any use. It probably was bolted to somebody’s Jeep for a long time or pulled out 10 fence posts in its wiring life.
I have a Hi-Lift Mount on my front runner rack, but I don’t really like it. It’s awkward to lift the jack so high, and it doesn't fit particularly well. It came with the rig, so I’m not too put out. I think I’ll use the mount on my 4X4Labs bumper swing out. It feels less like I’ll drop it on the side of the truck and smash the windows.
I’m not especially sure this jack will be useful to me, but I felt like learning how they work by rebuilding one. I don’t have sliders, so I can’t lift from the sides. I’m not interested in carrying it around as an ornament, so it will be stored with my other cruiser crap in the garage. Playing around with it on my driveway made me fear a mistake with one. Lots of potential for a terrible injury.
I have a few more little projects to post as well as an upcoming 2m/70cm radio project.
Since I’m home bound until at least May I’m going to get after a few little projects on the cruiser. The only catch is that our income just s*** the bed so things are going to be cheap or free.
My first back burner project was a Hilift Jack repaint/ rebuild. Some before and after pics.
so I found this old Hi-Lift at an estate sale/ antique dealer business. They wanted something like $40, but after some back and forth I walked out with it fir $15. It had been sitting in an outdoor tool pile for a while a d was looking pretty rough. I followed an excellent thread over on ExPo about rebuilding these jacks and had it dissembled and ready to clean, strip and paint.
Some invertebrates has moved into the space behind the top clamp clevis, but had long departed leaving behind their odd tunnel like chambers. It’s hard to tell from the photo.
I spent a few hours with a wire wheel and some steel brushes and got things prepped, primed and painted.
so fresh and clean.
It still needs a quick release pin for the base, and a proper handle keeper, but I might use a piece of pool noodle with my Volié strap...since I don’t need to buy either. The climbing pins and the shear bolt appear to have had little if any use. It probably was bolted to somebody’s Jeep for a long time or pulled out 10 fence posts in its wiring life.
I have a Hi-Lift Mount on my front runner rack, but I don’t really like it. It’s awkward to lift the jack so high, and it doesn't fit particularly well. It came with the rig, so I’m not too put out. I think I’ll use the mount on my 4X4Labs bumper swing out. It feels less like I’ll drop it on the side of the truck and smash the windows.
I’m not especially sure this jack will be useful to me, but I felt like learning how they work by rebuilding one. I don’t have sliders, so I can’t lift from the sides. I’m not interested in carrying it around as an ornament, so it will be stored with my other cruiser crap in the garage. Playing around with it on my driveway made me fear a mistake with one. Lots of potential for a terrible injury.
I have a few more little projects to post as well as an upcoming 2m/70cm radio project.
