Builds Let's Baseline my new to me 1993 Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Replacing oil is not really rebuilding and is very simple. Your rig is a 93 so the original clutch should have a black hub. These clutches have a greater oil shearing area than the blue bib clutch that you read so much about here on mud. 45ml or a tad bit more of 15k oil will do the trick.

Inspect the fan for cracks.

so if I understand correctly, the 93 black hub version (if original) has superior cooling because of the greater oil shearing area?

I’m very glad @baldilocks is a 93-94 flavor owner. Always helpful.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

You can borrow mine!

This is great news. The CFO will appreciate the cost reduction in my repair!

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Whoops...

Super human strength or sun baked plastic....you decide.

 

[baldilocks]

so if I understand correctly, the 93 black hub version (if original) has superior cooling because of the greater oil shearing area?

I’m very glad @baldilocks is a 93-94 flavor owner. Always helpful.

I don’t know if it’s better but Kevin told us that 15k oil is as thick as we should use in the black clutch. The blue hub needs thicker oil to perform as well apparently. I have two black hubs. The one I’m not running has 10k oil and I modified the valve opening temp down to 100 deg. My current runner has 15k oil with no timing mod and it works well. When it comes on you know it.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

So I'm also working out my list of items to finish the lift the PO did several years ago. I'm going to start with correcting the castor. Before I start sending money to vendors I'll get the Cruiser's alignment data so I have actual data to work from. My current setup is to the best of my knowledge OME 2.5 Heavy springs front and rear

My current thinking:

• Land Tank Castor Correction Plates (pros-lots of good results with my lift, cons-?)
• Delta VS Drop Brackets (Pros-possibly easier to install vs Plates, Cons-loss of clearance, possible interference with future sliders?)
• Delta VS Radius arms (Pros-best solution, Cons $1100)

I'm really leaning towards the Delta VS drop brackets. They seem like an elegant solution and I think if I'm honest I won't ever feel the limitations of the Delta Drop Brackets. While I'm sure I could get the install of the castor plates sorted out and find a way to weld them once I'm done, it's hard to ignore what I perceive as a more straight forward way to solve this problem.

In addition I'm planning on refreshing the front axle bushings with OEM ones. After getting the castor correction accomplished, bushings refreshed I'm hoping that I'll find the improvements in the road manners of the vehicle.

So, talk me out of the drop brackets, and into the castor plates.

 

[FMC80]

I vote Delta radius arms. Buy once, cry once...blah blah blah. But not notching/cutting and having superior arms is worth it to me.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I vote Delta radius arms. Buy once, cry once...blah blah blah. But not notching/cutting and having superior arms is worth it to me.

I know, I know.

 

[baldilocks]

I’ve purchased two sets of arms from Delta so I can tell you that one set won’t kill you. My first set was their original version that didn’t offer as much tie rod clearance. We buy adjustable HD rear links to dial in geometry. Why would we be inclined to use a bandaid on the front? I ran slee plates 4 or five years and the difference is huge.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I’ve purchased two sets of arms from Delta so I can tell you that one set won’t kill you. My first set was their original version that didn’t offer as much tie rod clearance. We buy adjustable HD rear links to dial in geometry. Why would we be inclined to use a bandaid on the front? I ran slee plates 4 or five years and the difference is huge.

Well, shoot. Hard to argue with this thinking and first hand experience. It just might take longer than I’m hoping to get the funds together for the correction. If I’ve learned anything from this Land Cruiser, it’s that a “basic lift” is full of problems. That’s ok, I’ll get it all sorted out with enough time and money.

 

[arndog123]

Another vote for the Delta Arms. I agree other options are just band aids. Got them on both 80’s and would highly recommend them. Just bolt on and move on to the next mod.

 

[Fj80oregon]

This is great news. The CFO will appreciate the cost reduction in my repair!

Let me know when you wanna pick it up. Im in Portland.

 

[baldilocks]

Seek and Detroy. 1983 must have been a good year.

 

[baldilocks]

Mrs. Jones .............

 

[Fj80oregon]

I vote delta arms also very well thought out and time proven. Mine are ordered but waiting on my castor results from the alignment shop. I may have ordered before the lift! Talked with Dave and told me to hold of until I get the results than we can get the correct ones. Great customer service.

 

[FMC80]

Have you decided which route you’ll go? I got word that the 4” radius arms are flying off the shelves so in order to get some you have to essentially get in line. May be a good reprieve for now to save up some cash flow.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

This is good to know. My timeline is necessarily slow anyways. Mrs TreeOctopus have a good sized landscaping project we are undertaking, so my initial pacing on this next stage of baselining was premature.

suddenly there are lots of competing needs at home and the second car (Landcruiser cruiser) is dropping down the triage list.

never fear, I’ll happily post up my next steps when they happen. This is totally the wrong season in life for me to be undertaking a Land Cruiser, but it just means a slower pace.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Well...all things Land Cruiser are on hold for the moment. Mrs. PNWTreeOctopus and I are replacing a deck and doing some backyard hardscaping. I really want to fix this cruiser and leave town for good and live mad max style (but maybe more goretex than leather-rains a lot here)...this project has also gone on hold as my aging father is fast approaching a crisis of aging out of his house.

Bla, Bla, Bla, non-cruiser stuff is dominating my time, but I think it will let me really dive in when these fires are put out. I’m hoping to have this rig ready for a possible drive to MN this summer, but a more realistic goal is to finish the base lining, and suspension issues by early fall for a late season camping week with the family.

pics because it’s more fun

Flook Lake, Or

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

I had a revelation today about the noise I thought was a failing u-joint. It has been continuing to make noise when in reverse, but not in Drive. I’m told this can happen and ujoints make noise in R when they are failing. Well, I was in reverse today and I heard the squeaking and then put it in N and let it continue to travel backwards and the noise instantly vanished. So being new to all this, could this still be my driveshaft squeaking? or am I missing something obvious?

Wouldn’t the drive shaft continue to turn in neutral? After I inspected the ujoints I couldn’t find any play when I was greasing them, but the grease that came out of them was pretty brown and nasty, so I know they are kind of abused.

I unsuccessfully tried to loosen the front driveshaft to check for play, but even with my long handled wrench’s I was not strong enough. Hey I’m not afraid to admit it...mostly.

 

[baldilocks]

I like your writing skills. Right up there with @MDarius. Let’s not kid ourselves here. Just rebuild the drive line. After the first one it doesn’t hurt so much.

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

@baldilocks, Sound advice as always. It’s pretty easy for me to get lost in the search for the cause of all these little issues. Honestly it’s been a great way to learn about the different systems, but sometimes I miss the 10,000 foot view. I’m glad I have y’all to keep me on track.