Let it Begin! 87 frame off, vortec, H55...

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

Good job on the body, you're going to really like the sound deadening.

On the VSS, I have to go down that road, if you can explain or show the wires you pulled for it, I would appreciate it.

 

[Ridge Runner]

I decided to use Toyota buttons for the ARB lockers.

Maybe I missed it, but how did you do that?

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Ron,
I'll try to dig into the wire question in the next couple days - I have to travel for a week or so, so if I don't get to it right away I'll knock it out when I get back. Basically I just found which pin on the ECU is for the VSS hi and lo signals and traced the wires out, then checked the continuity once I found where they had been snipped. I think BD cuts most of the un needed wires in pretty much the same place 'cause I found the MAF, VSS and some other stuff right on top of the engine.
It does require unlooming all that crap so...not such fun.

Ridgerunner,
I just took the button apart - carefully pry at the front of it from one side and the window/light piece will pop off. There is a piece of green plastic in there and the clear window - they just sandwich in when you put the button face on there. I took some "goo gone" and gently cleaned the 'rear window defrost' symbol off (sanded very gently too with some scratch pad - don't want to mar the plastic) but the plastic went "clear enough" pretty easily. Then I just printed a piece of paper, white text on black ink, with the font I liked, played around with spacing and sizing, and cut it out and sandwiched it back in there.
Sorry, I didn't take pics along the way. I'd be happy to send you the .ppt file with my little tiny word-pictures on it, that might save you the trouble/experimentation.
I think there are a lot more durable ways to make buttons, but this worked for me and I'm happy when I can find some simple solution that I can do myself.

And I did some playing around with the spade connections that come with the ARB compressor to make sure the Toyota buttons would close the right circuit and that worked ok too, at least on the bench - I didn't dig into the amperage across the ARB switches; I'm sure that'll bite me in the ass in a while and I'll have to come up with something different. But, until then, I'm happy.

Hope that's worthwhile a little.
Best regards,
TDC.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Almost a truck

OK, so about a month between updates...

BLUF: The body is on, the engine is in, all the wet lines (fuel, brakes, clutch) are rebuilt and installed - still need to be bled - electricity works, cooling works (except for the heater lines - more on that in a minute), basically s***'s coming together and I could ALMOST drive this thing out of the garage.

I did say almost

I buggered up one of the copper tubes to the heater core. I thought I could round it back out a little (which I did from this pic) and really tighten down the hose but, two things: 1) it wasn't perfectly round; 2) the chevy heater hose is 1/8 bigger around than the toyota tube. So, big leak of coolant.

I am going to try to source used tubes through the firewall and replace them. But I am also thinking of getting an aftermarket heater core and rigging up some pipes or hoses through the firewall - I'll try to run this off the side before actually mounting it thru the firewall. That's one of my hallmarks; get everything put in, looking nice, just where it should be, THEN try it and find out it doesn't work and have to take it all down again (FML). But I digress, WHY wouldn't the copper-line compression fittings used in home plumbing work here? Copper pipe is copper pipe right? It's not under huge pressure in the heating system is it…I mean it's a stinking hose and clamp from the water pump!

Scrapdaddy,
Here's some photos of the VSS wires.
Not complex, just complicated. I found where the wires "should" exit the ECM:

Then dug into the harness where the wires "might" have been snipped - I thought probably in with the O2 sensor looms or perhaps from the TAC module given proximity to where they probably ran from the transmission to the ECM. BUT NO!
I found the wires snipped on top of the engine - it seems that's where BD removes most of the systems he doesn't keep (MAF, purge and EVAP solenoids, VSS, etc).

They were still pigtailed together and continuity showed that I had the right wires (assuming the EMC hadn't been reprogrammed to use these two specific wires for something else - which it might have been and which I am going to have to reprogram again anyway to add MAF and evap stuff back in).

A call to JTR confirmed that it doesn't matter which of their two wires runs to 'hi' and which to 'lo' from the chevy wiring diagram. (an interesting aside, I was running the engine up to temp to burp radiator and check stuff yesterday and I found (accidentally) that I had left it in gear - the drivelines aren't attached for just this reason!. But this should be a way to test if this ECM and VSS are talking. "Drive" without the drivelines - the EMC thinks it's moving - let off the gas and see if it stumbles/stalls…should work?

Most of the other engine compartment stuff is hung and routed but I find that I don't have pics. I'll snap a few and post in a while. I'm pretty pleased with the ARB compressor, got a place for the battery isolator for dual batts (I've decided to put a power inverter under the passenger seat where the heater used to be - anyone wanna buy a rear heater with - more - buggered up copper lines?).

If you're still reading my epic posts I commend you. I'll try to shorten them up and still figure out how to pass accurate, complete info.

More soon.
TDC.-

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I love this thread. Keep it up man

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Thanks Johnny. I'd be lying if I didn't say I'd looked at Moonshine's thread (and your others) for inspiration and instruction over the years (that's years, just for this truck - it was almost exactly two years ago that I pulled this thing into the brand new garage and started soiling the floor with fluids and grinding dust!

A few more happy snaps:

I sprayed all the insulation, sound deadener and monstaliner on the underside, but rolled it on the quarter panels - I'm not sure I'll stick with this body line (it's minimalistic) but figure it's easier to add than take away!.

A little engine bay: don't pay too much mind to that rat's nest of wires around the ECM and ARB. I'll wrap and tie them back up, they're just undone for some trouble-shooting.
And the PS fender will get clogged a little more with the radiator overflow and A/C dryer when the second batt goes in on the PS.

Charcoal canister taking up valuable f'ing space behind the Rowland panel.

Sound damper for the hood. I touch sanded and cleaned under the ribs and applied a bunch of seam sealer and let harden overnight with a bunch of random weight bearing stuff holding the ribs to the hood.

No more rattle-y - at least no knocking on it. I am sure it'll go clang-a-lang-a-lang when I open and close it now. I also have the hood shocks ready to go. I splurged a little and bought one of them with a locking tab on it to ensure the hood stays up even in the cold. Pics of that later (when it's actually attached to the dang truck).

These are some pretty crappy pictures, but that's what happens at 6am when also trying to get the coffee made.

Oh yeah, I also managed to get this done in the last month or so. Good size 4-point (we only count one side out here) muley.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

Thank you, Thank you! I would never have found those wires. Very good write-up.

Have you thought about aftermarket bulkhead fittings. I can't find them right now, but they clean up the firewall mounting. Hoses thread to the fitting on both sides of the firewall and you don't have a leaking rubber grommet, to mess with.

Keep going, almost there!

Ron

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Ron,

Bulkead fitting seems great, but my lack of knowledge is how to attach the copper tubes on the core to something else to feed the threaded (?) bulkhead fitting.

I don't want to spend too much time or money to experiment, but given that hose clamps work outside the fire wall I'm leaning that way: some sort of two teir transition from heater core to rubber to pipe (or bulkhead fitting) thru the firewall to hose. This moved up the priority list given the leak of coolant so we shall see sooner rather than later - hopefully this weekend.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

heater core tube "fix"

Yeah, I put "fix" in quotes on purpose. I think this'll work…well I know it works, I ran the engine up to temp for half an hour with the heater core on the bench; I hope it will work for 25 more years.

It's a pretty drastic solution but with the pipes from the core to the firewall only available used (and ~$30 ea at that) and one of my buggered beyond round, I needed to try something different.

I wanted to cut the pipe off above the original toyota flare and o-ring, but the compression nuts that I have are 5/8" and the diameter of the tubes varies by as much as 2mm along their length. I don't know how that happens, but bottom line is that my ferrule would not have fit over the part of the pipe that removed the union. If/when I need a new heater core I'll consider soldering some right-size pipes on there but for now…this is how I adapted to the bent pipe and resultant coolant river on the fire wall.

5/8" compression nut, 5/8" transition to 3/4 to hose barb union

So the hose will run through the firewall.

I put a union in the hose so I can at least access/remove most of it w/o going all the way into the dash again.

Also, I put a ball valve in the other (feed) hose. For me the heat is either on or off - rarely do I think let me just allow a "little" coolant to flow through the core. And the Toyota valve is probably pretty shot too, so this is a fix until I feel like getting an aftermarket toyota valve (I like things to run the way their supposed to - i.e. replacing the original part so the slider on the dash can turn on/off the heat - but I also like things to work reliably - hence putting in a sturdy valve).

I know it doesn't matter to the heater core - it's just a heat exchanger - but the vortec water pump specifies an out and an in; of course they're different sizes! So the "in" to the heater core is 5/8 and the out (from the heater to the water pump) is 3/4. Given that I was already messing with one hose, and the 'supply' side is the 5/8 from the water pump I decided to put the valve on 5/8 and the 3/4 hose where I was cutting the copper pipe - it's just as easy to transition from compression nut to 3/4 as to 5/8.

Somehow I end up with too many words in every one of these posts. Ah well, I like to ramble.

Best, TDC.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Long time no update; been working a lot and spending more time in the garage than on the computer, a deadline will do that to ya'.

Still a lot to do but I can see the light through the windshield. I didn't take a lot of pictures of the dash going back together. I put new foam-tape-stuff on all the heater duct joints. Got all the coated wires on the slider controls all hooked back up - those little clips are a PITA; use a heat gun to soften the plastic sheathing and then the clips will push on easily. The sliders won't work if the wire can't slide within the coating.

- The ARB (defroster) buttons work well - compressor engages and disengages and both lockers actuate effectively - and I'm really happy how they look.

- New bumper for Christmas (I love gratuitously expensive, bolt on upgrades - especially when they're not complete and I "need" to spend additional $ on a winch!)

- Dual batteries in and wired. The optima will serve the power inverter that mounts where the rear heater used to be. I ran the 1/0 AWG wires inside some construction conduit to protect it under the truck. I can make due without the 'bling-y' battery terminals, but they are great in terms of attaching heavy cables.

- Diesel air cleaner assembly - yeah, I still need the ducting; I am surprised how hard that can be to come by. Either spend $100 on a whole kit that I will use 24" of or by bits and pieces through Summit and hope it all goes together. I will incorporate the Chev MAF too so...

Issues that remain:

-Cant' get the rear brakes to bleed. I've read all the threads and will be loosening and checking the lines at each joint to see where, if anywhere past the M/C, the pressure gets to.

-Hi beams no work-y. I followed the directions here (https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/110746-high-beam-lights-fixed-finally.html) and gently cleaned the contacts but no dice. The high beams worked a little on 'flash' - pulling the lever toward me - but not at all now. Any other suggestions?

-Relocate the radiator overflow. Any ideas? It's really tight in there!

-Wire in the A/C

-Wire in the tach

-HDPE sheet for door panels (I've got the old ones if anyone wants to talk about buying them). Oh yeah, tuffy console mounted, and all wires for a stereo are run in proper conduit to/from where they'll be used/needed.

-Exhaust system (this will be the shop)

And I'm sure there's more 'cause I haven't even driven it yet, but many of the upgrades still to come won't stop me from driving (trouble shooting) it. Lots of things that I still want to do (remove chrome and black out grille, etc) that don't involve getting the body off the frame or taking differentials out, etc so can be completed along the way.

Sorry for the long post. Few occasions, lots of words and pics at once.

Best to all.
TDC.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Fuel door release mod

SOmetimes it's the little things.

Since I won't be carrying a key to get into or to start the truck why carry one for the fuel door? :roll eyes: Yeah, kinda stupid! How hard would it be to keep the fuel key in the console? I just wanted to do this for some reason.

Pretty easy.
Replace the flat spring that clips onto the hinge pin. The little grey clip was still there but the 'V' spring had broken off at some point.

Drill out/off the spot welded pin that holds to locking lug closed and bolt on the release mechanism from inside the rear quarter.

Bolt on the handle - the cable runs (in my case) behind the heater box, down the PS floor board with the wires, through the hole into the rear quarter panel and it just clips to the release.

Damn, reminds me I really need to tidy up the wires under the dash.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Almost daily driving

EDIT - I apologize up front for the iPhone pics, maybe someday I'll remember to pick up the camera before going to the garage, or take some decent pictures later...

My updates to this thread a fewer and farther between, but it seems like my questions to other threads are more and more; it's the little stuff that takes some tweaking!

But I'm very pleased to be driving this truck to work on most days. I haven't taken it off road unless you count driving around the piles of dirt in the vacant lots around here just to make sure the transfer shifts and the lockers hold (it does, they do).

Got the window chrome removed and blacked out all around. I removed the trim along the passenger door windows as well and replaced with new felts all around.

Put in a 'Speedhut' tach which takes the signal from the ECU.

Replaced the old door panels with some HDPE (I'm pretty happy with the outcome, but they may need some tweaking - i.e. it's hard to get at the clips to remove the window handles. The HDPE is a little thicker than the fiber board originals and this stuff doesn't flex as much. I used nut-serts (riv-nuts, whatever…) to attach the plastic. They work OK, but the existing holes in the sheet metal of the doors is just a little too large for the nutsert to grab every time. PITA.

Started building a jerry can carrier, still got some welding and finishing to do obviously. Who knew that building what is basically a damn box would be hard? But $57 in steel and a couple of grinding wheels vs. $300 to buy one. Plus I enjoy doing what I can. Where I hit a snag I'll buy, but otherwise I enjoy the process. The table-looking piece will weld to the swing out and the box will bolt to that. I figure that gives me a little bit of flexibility if I want to strap a cooler there instead - my gas tank already holds 30+ gallons.

So everyone should be about SICK of pictures by now right?

I still can't get the radiator t burp properly. I run it and run it with a funnel in the inlet neck, bring RPMs up, refill as it bubbles out, etc, etc, until I can't hear anymore squishing sound upon adding RPMs but after a bit it seems that there's air back in the system. I've tried it with the front end raised WAY up, with a funnel (to ensure the fluid level - in the funnel - is the highest point in the system), etc. but

I think maybe the coolant isn't being sucked back into the radiator from the overflow tank when it cools back down and the liquid contracts. I should have been just a little more patient yesterday and added coolant as it came back down in temp maybe but I had to get to work…
[
Any thoughts? Am I misunderstanding the burping process?

Regards,
TDC.-

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Just throwing this thread back up because:
1) I miss the community and enjoy the tech education and conversations
2) I have my tools back and a garage (sort of) again where I might be able to work on the truck more.
3) I am egotistical and like to see myself immortalized in electrons

I'd like to believe it's just the first, but come on...

We made the journey from Boise to Monterey, she driving her highlander and me in the '60, packed jam full of crap (camping gear, clothes for a month, toys, games, books, limited tools/parts/fluids) and pulling a little trailer (bikes, more random s*** that the movers didn't pack).

Great drive through the Blues in Oregon to Mitchell (Dad's ranch for a couple days), Crater Lake, Shasta, Lassen Volcanic Nat'l Park, and on down the Valley to the coast. I intended to stop and see Georg at Valley Hybrids but we were passing through there right at the time of Rubithon so no dice there.

The truck ran great. Not a single issue so far (well, little knocks here and there, perhaps a vacuum leak somewhere - just some slight, slight whirring sound I can't/haven't had time to diagnose - but otherwise great all the way here). The 5.3 pulled steady, accelerating up every hill I came across, averaged ~18 MPG for the trip (yeah, lots of highway driving!, but also very loaded down; the total weight was 5720 lbs without the trailer), H55 is very stiff into/out of 1st gear in the mornings but not nearly so bad once the oil is warm. I also think the gears have to get to know each other a little. But other than that its great. Nice quiet (relatively) highway driving...

So anyway, no questions for you all at this point. Again, just like to hear myself talk and needed a break from homework on a Saturday morning. If there's any collection of cruisers on the Monterey peninsula (or near to) I'll keep my eyes out for ya'!

Cheers,
Trav

Early in the trip; camping in Malheur Nat'l Forest. Most of the rest of the pics are taken of funny roadside signs to send back to my Marine buddies in Boise (Weed, CA. Yolo, CA. Liberal Ave, etc) or pictures of the cool speed hut gauges doing their thing while I charge up some summit (highway) along the way.

 

[M1A1cruiser]

Yeah, it's a sh!tty picture, but kinda shows how the gauges look in there...in use...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Love that cluster, especially the quad gauge on the left.

 

[dirtEJohnson]

Subscribed. Ramble on sir!

 

[Elbert]

maybe I missed it...source for that quad gauge...Dakota digital?

 

[norsk]

maybe I missed it...source for that quad gauge...Dakota digital?

he did a Speedhut tach, so if he followed suite then

http://www.speedhut.com/gauge/GR4-QUAD-01/1/Quad-Gauge---Oil-psi,-Water-Temp,-Fuel-Level,-Volts

but with different silk screens, which one can choose when ordering the gauge

very nice

dougbert

 

[scrapdaddy]

Travis,

Looking good. You've come a long way with it and I'm glad to hear you're getting that much fuel mileage.

Good luck with your new home.

 

[drillduty]

Rig looks great have a great pcs and be safe!