middlecalf
SILVER Star
I‘ve heard that’s bad stuff.
Left Turn Signal Not Working ? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 1978FJ40project
- Start date
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Coolerman
SILVER Star
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- Jan 5, 2004
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- Paint Lick, KY
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I have said this at least 20 times here on MUD. The old OEM flashers are CURRENT activated devices. They must have at least .7 Amps flowing through them in order to flash.
When you activate the left or right turn signal you are activating TWO bulbs that SHOULD draw about an amp each. However, if both bulbs have bad grounds or corrosion in the housing, or corroded terminals in a connector, you may not get the .7 amps needed to flash them. Now when you activate the Hazards you have FOUR bulbs trying to flash and the odds are all four together will add up to the .7 amps needed to activate the flasher even if they are all corroded. That is ONE reason the turns won't work, but the Hazards will.
Another thing that can cause the turn signals to not work, but the Hazards do, are the wrong bulbs installed. Find out what bulbs you are supposed to have and check EVERY bulb in the truck to make sure they are the correct ones. There are many different wattage bulbs out there that will fit into the light housings, but are not enough wattage to activate the flasher. The info is in the FSM or there is a thread here on MUD with the correct bulb list.
LED bulbs will also cause this issue as they are VERY low current draw compared to incandescent bulbs of the same rated wattage. LED bulbs require an LED flasher.
One quick cure if you are too lazy to properly clean every ground and every light bulb socket is to replace the OEM mechanical current activated flasher with a solid state LED flasher. Toyota sells a kit and so do I. This flasher does NOT require ANY current flow to work. It will flash even if NO bulbs are connected.
So if you have the condition of no turn signals, or no park lights or no brake lights or dash lights you should do ALL of the following things.
1. Check that all the bulbs are the right ones.
2. While you have each bulb out, clean the socket of any corrosion and MAKE SURE the light housing is grounded properly. You can run a separate ground wire or just clean to bare metal where the housing touches the body or bumper.
3. Pull every fuse in your fuse panel and throw it away (unless you have the OEM colored fuses. Clean those)
4. Use a Dremel tool with a wire wheel to clean EVERY SINGLE terminal on the fuse panel front and back.
5. Install new fuses
6. Remove the battery cables and replace them if they are in bad shape or clean them on each end to shiny bare metal. Do the same thing for where they attach. Re-install.
7. If you see a White/Black wire ANYWHERE on the truck that is attached to ground: Remove it clean it to bear metal and re-install it. Don't forget the rear chassis frame ground!
8. Remove the alternator B+ cable and clean it and the terminal to bare shiny metal and re-install. If you have a generator remove all wires, clean to shiny metal and re-install,
9. Remove each wire from the Amp Meter and clean it and the stud to shiny metal and re-install.
10. If you have an early truck with a voltage regulator that has screw terminals on it: Remove each wire from the regulator and clean it and the stud to shiny metal and re-install.
When you activate the left or right turn signal you are activating TWO bulbs that SHOULD draw about an amp each. However, if both bulbs have bad grounds or corrosion in the housing, or corroded terminals in a connector, you may not get the .7 amps needed to flash them. Now when you activate the Hazards you have FOUR bulbs trying to flash and the odds are all four together will add up to the .7 amps needed to activate the flasher even if they are all corroded. That is ONE reason the turns won't work, but the Hazards will.
Another thing that can cause the turn signals to not work, but the Hazards do, are the wrong bulbs installed. Find out what bulbs you are supposed to have and check EVERY bulb in the truck to make sure they are the correct ones. There are many different wattage bulbs out there that will fit into the light housings, but are not enough wattage to activate the flasher. The info is in the FSM or there is a thread here on MUD with the correct bulb list.
LED bulbs will also cause this issue as they are VERY low current draw compared to incandescent bulbs of the same rated wattage. LED bulbs require an LED flasher.
One quick cure if you are too lazy to properly clean every ground and every light bulb socket is to replace the OEM mechanical current activated flasher with a solid state LED flasher. Toyota sells a kit and so do I. This flasher does NOT require ANY current flow to work. It will flash even if NO bulbs are connected.
So if you have the condition of no turn signals, or no park lights or no brake lights or dash lights you should do ALL of the following things.
1. Check that all the bulbs are the right ones.
2. While you have each bulb out, clean the socket of any corrosion and MAKE SURE the light housing is grounded properly. You can run a separate ground wire or just clean to bare metal where the housing touches the body or bumper.
3. Pull every fuse in your fuse panel and throw it away (unless you have the OEM colored fuses. Clean those)
4. Use a Dremel tool with a wire wheel to clean EVERY SINGLE terminal on the fuse panel front and back.
5. Install new fuses
6. Remove the battery cables and replace them if they are in bad shape or clean them on each end to shiny bare metal. Do the same thing for where they attach. Re-install.
7. If you see a White/Black wire ANYWHERE on the truck that is attached to ground: Remove it clean it to bear metal and re-install it. Don't forget the rear chassis frame ground!
8. Remove the alternator B+ cable and clean it and the terminal to bare shiny metal and re-install. If you have a generator remove all wires, clean to shiny metal and re-install,
9. Remove each wire from the Amp Meter and clean it and the stud to shiny metal and re-install.
10. If you have an early truck with a voltage regulator that has screw terminals on it: Remove each wire from the regulator and clean it and the stud to shiny metal and re-install.
Clean the connections in the turn signal switch or get a new one. It solved my exact problem you have.
Cromagnon
SILVER Star
Just follow @Coolerman advise and you will be good.
Ok, so an FJ40 needs .7 amps to flash. What would cause it to flash and then stay on?
Cromagnon
SILVER Star
Less than .7A, read the post.
Look out for the small ball bearing in the switch mechanism… if you lose it it works less smoothly and may not switch
