Builds Lees LJ78 Prado Build (1 Viewer)

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That engine is so clean you can eat off of it

Haha, it's not like that anymore. Got filled with muddy water on one of our 4x4 runs this year, never really cleaned up nice again after that.
 
The light may only come on around 15-16psi, but I can tell you it starts cutting fuel before the light comes on. Sounds like your EGT's were under control. Mine would go up to 1200F post turbo when I first bought it (stock boost). Now it's a fight to get them over 800F.


My light comes on soon as I hit 12-13psi, Two different boost gauges exactly the same psi also... my waste gate is still set at 11psi though...

Fight to get them over 800F? I'd say mine is hard to get over 1000F unless I'm going up a hill, then it seems to hit a wall at 1200-1250F and won't go past that. I think I need to play with my fuel pressure and more boost, and put in my larger heat exchanger.
 
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Water/air intercooler parts thus far.
 
My light comes on soon as I hit 12-13psi, Two different boost gauges exactly the same psi also... my waste gate is still set at 11psi though....

Maybe there was an issue with how AirHeadNut was reading his boost. Most people say the light comes on around 14-15psi (1bar). It's been so long since I saw it I don't remember what psi it came on for me. I use a air bleed-off now to keep from hitting overboost/fuelcut. As I'm able to fine tune the pressure the boost sensor sees, I do know that if I give it a little too much pressure, the computer does start cutting fuel for sure even before the light comes on. In the Denso manual for our ECD system, it shows a graph of this.

Fight to get them over 800F? I'd say mine is hard to get over 1000F unless I'm going up a hill, then it seems to hit a wall at 1200-1250F and won't go past that. I think I need to play with my fuel pressure and more boost, and put in my larger heat exchanger.

Your pyrometer probe is pre-turbo right? Mine is post-turbo, that is probably the difference; 200F would be a typical drop across the turbine. What maximum boost pressure are you running? 12psi? I'm running about 17.5psi (after the intercooler). More air will give cooler EGTs, that said I am giving it all the fuel I can also; the spill control valve is turned all the way up to the point just before the engine goes into run-away. I also give it more fuel on top of that (methanol). The calibration resistors are basically set to the stock settings as the motor seems to run best that way.

At this time of year its a fight to get the EGT's over 800F (post turbo). In summer on a 30C day towing 3500lbs up a long ascent I will hit 1000F (post turbo). So basically it's tuned safe IMHO.
 
Regarding throttle plate removal, i know to remove the big one, what about the small one?

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Also the gasket on the bottom of the inlet is toast, any ideas on how to replace?

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Step by step EGR delete and throttle plate removal:

Remove fuel filter
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Remove mystery thing with blue plug from the top of the air inlet.
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Other mystery thing off
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Three bolts holding bracket removed
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Pull off bracket
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Continued..
remove c-clip that holds the verticle rod to the saucer shaped egr thingy or just snap it off
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Removd this tube
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Remove 4 bolts holding down air inlet to throttle assembly
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Push throttle cables aside
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Remove inlet
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Remove this pipe
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Sludge!!
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Pulled off these rad hoses? And capped
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Unhooked electrical plug to throttle sensor
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Time to clean this puppy up and remove throttle plate
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Why is the rad fluid designed to go through this throttle assembly? This is a pick of the in and out. Is it some sort of intercooler?
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Remember to hook these back up when you're done, they are for the boost sensor.
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Anyone know where you can buy a factory original throttle plate gasket, I ended up making/cutting one out of MR.GASKET a few months back... still seems to be holding?

Good pictures!!! Keep them up!!!!!
 
Nice work Lee, good progress on your truck!

I just use Permatex blue gasket maker for that throttle spot. Has held up well.

Whatever you do, make sure you don't remove your throttle position sensor! You'll have to re-calibrate it with a feeler gauge, and from experience on other EFI Toyotas I can tell you it's a PITA!!

A lot of Toyota's (gasoline) have coolant going through the throttle body. I forget why they do that, maybe to prevent ice buildup or something? I think a few of the 2LTE guys have permanently removed those lines from the throttle body by just connecting them together with a double sided barbed fitting. Certainly now that you've removed the throttle plate they are not necessary. They do just heat up the air going into the engine, which undoes some of what your intercooler is doing. I've been meaning to remove mine, but keep forgetting to.

Thanks for all the pictures; great for other guys doing this same job. And you are going to love the little torque monster you are unleashing! The throttle mod really helps with off the line low rpm torque. Makes for better engine braking too. My little 2lte actually has enough of an effect that even when towing (gross mass of 8500lb+) it will slow me down enough on steep hills I rarely even need to brake. I believe this throttle mod also helps cool the engine down faster at idle, as more air is getting in there.
 
For sure, im being really careful to keep the throttle body with position sensor intact. Thanks so much for the help guys. Im having a tough time getting the large throttle plate off. The screw heads stripped easily so I had to drill them out. They were rivet on one side and screw head on the other. As you can see the drill holes are quite big and i expected the plate to come off but its stuck. The plate looks sandwiched between 2 halves of the axle. How is this supposed to come apart? The smaller plate came off easily as the axle was screwed to the plate on one side but the big one is a PIta. This is a picture of one side.
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This is the other side. See how the plate is sandwiched?
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