Leaking coolant hose (10 Viewers)

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I've been helping a neighbor diagnose a coolant leak on a 96 FZJ80, and I found at least 2 so far. We're using a pressure tester with the system filled with water.
The first one was the inlet to the heater core hard line at the firewall. That was fixed.
The next one appears to be 16261-66040 HOSE, WATER BY-PASS, NO.1 which exits the rear of the throttle body and terminates into parts unknown.
If I put a bit of pressure on this hose with a finger, it is clearly leaking at the bottom, but I can't see where it terminates and it looks like I would have to remove the intake manifold to get to it.

Do any of you have a decent picture or any tips/tricks/sage words of wisdom?
 
From @flintknapper
Looks like it's the port below #6.
Ugh. Maybe if I remove the starter I can reach it from below. Not sure.
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I had to replace mine since it's supercharged and the original install uses a barb to join to the hose to extend to the relocated throttle body. I replaced mine with a single hose.

Pic:

stuff.webp


There's more details that 'may' be useful -> Injector Service - https://george4wd.taskled.com/injectors.html

cheers,
george.
 
It's a little finicky like the PHH, but you can reach it through the wheel well/underneath (can't remember which route I took). Mine was weeping at the lower connection, as the hose end was in bad shape. I pulled that end off the nipple, trimmed it a little, reinstalled, and it fixed the issue until I replaced the whole hose later - which I did with the throttle body off while doing the valve cover, which lets you access the upper connection. So if my memory is correct, all you "need" to remove is the TB & maybe the wheel.
 
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I had to replace mine since it's supercharged and the original install uses a barb to join to the hose to extend to the relocated throttle body. I replaced mine with a single hose.

Pic:

View attachment 4001367

There's more details that 'may' be useful -> Injector Service - https://george4wd.taskled.com/injectors.html

cheers,
george.
I used a barb on mine. It’s a low pressure conduit and it’s been fine. Now that I posted this it will likely start leaking.
 
I used a barb on mine. It’s a low pressure conduit and it’s been fine. Now that I posted this it will likely start leaking.
That's why I had to replace mine with a single hose - it started weeping. Since I was replacing a dead injector, I had the top intake off (replaced vsv and all the little hoses under it) and so a perfect opportunity to access PHH#1 (the bypass is at least as pesky as the PHH)...

Also, be very careful with the knock sensor connector... easy to break off... ask me how I know...

cheers,
george.
 
If you pull the throttle body you can get a look at how the hose comes up through the intake to connect to the throttle body. When reinstalling the throttle body connect this hose while the TB is loose, you'll have more flexibility in hooking it up.
 
Late to the party but this is how I replaced the bypass hose that comes off the bottom of the TB:

Remove the four bolts holding the Throttle Body to the intake. I forget, probably 14mm deep socket and some extensions.
Using a telescoping magnet to grab the loose bolts helps, especially the lower two.

Pull the throttle body back away from the intake a couple of inches (don't disconnect any cables) and you'll see the hose coming off the bottom of the TB

Grab the hose clamp with a long pair of curved or 90' needle nose pliers and pull it and the hose off.

Install a new hose onto the TB but first slide a new OEM hose clamp onto the hose. The OEM clamp has the small clip that holds it open, once the hose is in place remove the small clip and the clamp will close. Then push the loose end of the new hose over the side of the valve cover heading downward.

Then go down to the left front wheel well, unless you're very small you will have to remove a wheel/tire and one or both rubber curtains, then using a good lamp, reach up using the needle nose or hose puller pliers (may need a couple different long types, I forget which one I used, straight, curved, or 90') and grab the end of the old hose and pull it off the pipe nipple. You may have to fiddle with the old clamp a bit to pull it off. Toss the old hose

Then find the end of the new hose that you pushed over and down the side of the valve cover, slide another new OEM hose clamp over the open end of the new hose and push it over the pipe nipple, position the clamp over the pipe, flick the clip off and the clamp will close.

Go back to the TB (there should be enough slack in the new hose to do this last but if not do this next section before you attach the other end of the hose)

The two lower bolts for the TB are a bit harder to see where you're going so I've used one of those larger (magnet) telescoping magnet tools that will hold the head of the bolt better than the smaller magnet type, then guide the bolts into the holes and tighten them down once you know they aren't cross-threaded. IIRC I've been able to get the lower bolts started into the threaded hole by turning the telescoping magnet.

The FSM says to replace the TB gasket if you've removed the TB as it's a steel crush-able type of gasket so technically not reusable (but many people do reuse it).

IIRC that's about it.
 
Dean recently re did his head and for what I remember that’s a little difficult to reach, specially with the upper plenum in place, maybe the lower too ?
We even replaced the port (above the rear knock sensor). Obviously a lot easier when you do a full head job with the hood off….
Not the photos you are looking for, but might help you visualise?

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