Leak in Front axle boots, replace axles ? (1 Viewer)

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Wasn't sure of the best place to post this...I didn't want to resurrect an ancient thread.

What do you guys think? There's a shot of the passenger side and drivers side. I also posted a close up of the drivers side. Do you think I can get away with just putting new clamps. They recently started leaking. 2006 with just under 90k.

Edit: I think they are all driver side. The passenger side isn't quite as bad.

This was my logic...the CV boots on my truck were not cracked, and they didn't look frail. So i thought..."What do i have to lose by going the clamp route?"

So i had the dealer put grease into the existing boots, and install OEM clamps. $100 later, i was on my way.

There are other posts on here about doing the clamps yourself, but again, if the boots aren't cracked, give this solution a try.
 
Thanks for the response. I'm with you, mine are not cracked or showing much wear. Over the weekend I cranked the torsion bars and that's when I noticed they were already leaking.

I hadn't thought about having the dealer throw some more grease in and clamp them again. $100 isn't bad really. I'm sure I could swing it myself too. Decisions...decisions
 
I would try to get that nasty, grey grease out of there as much as possible before filling with new, fresh grease.
 
My go to mechanic has decided he will only install new OEM CV axles. Comes with Toyota warranty.
If he rebuilds then he has to deal with any issues.
His opinion is once you break the seal and dirt gets inside too many of the parts get scratched and fouled.
Parts and labor quote of $180 per side.
 
Another thing to take into account is labor. It takes a while to rebuild an axle and that will rack up the cost of the service. It's almost the same price to simply replace with new OEM units than have your old and potentially contaminated CV's rebooted. I always replace the axles, peace of mind and you get trail spares.
 
You're not getting an OEM CV at $180 per side.

My brother is GM of local Toyota store. That said, I got OEM reboot done for $200 a side. That was basically wholesale parts and half off labor (typical employee discount). So ya, sub-$200 a side I would seriously doubt your gettin OEM

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How tight as in hand tight? Until you can't turn by hand at all? I put on PFrans clamps on one side and it was still leaking, so I kept tightening by hand. Then it looked the boot started distorting, so I backed off. It seems like its seated right though...and no tears in the boot.

I got oem reboot at dealer for $200 per side. All four new boots, clamps and grease was $400 from the Toyota dealer. The boots leaked, took back to the dealer and they tighter the leaky one/s. then another boot was starting to leak... Took it back and the mechanic basically recommended pfrans kit. Said that factory clamps are trash and the aftermarket hose clamp style is the way to go. Ordered em, Paul shipped ASAP, they installed them free of charge and seem to be working flawlessly. Hand tight plus a half turn, that's what mine are at.
 
Dismayed that I can't seem to get my P-Fran clamp to stop the leaking on one side per my previous post, and now finding the other side starting to leak as well, I priced out new axles vs. "just new boots". None of the local stealers would even do "just new boots". However, my trusty local independent Toyota/Lexus Certified Master Mechanic actually suggested "just new boots" if everything else looked to be in order, but his price was $400 labor and $40 parts (boot kit)., per side :frown:. That's $900 before tax :mad: I don't mind their mark-up on the parts, I can get the boot kit for low $30's so I'm not gonna nickel and dime on that, but the $800 for labor :mad:?!

I guess I should try to fiddle with the P-Fran clamp more? Or just do complete axle replacement? Seems crazy to replace the axels, but if the cost is only incrementally more and I'm getting new axles...What say you? This is an '06 w/70k miles and has lived a pretty fluffy surfer/dancer/dog-hauler mom life in So Cal, so it seems pretty ridiculous to have to consider forking out this kind of dough with such low mileage.
 
I'm assuming they're leaking at the small end?

If the boot/shaft interface is contaminated with gunk it's possible that they won't seal. I'd take off the clamp, wipe it clean, slide the boot back and forth, re-wipe, etc until it's a good, clean mate and then reinstall the clamps.
 
I'm assuming they're leaking at the small end?

If the boot/shaft interface is contaminated with gunk it's possible that they won't seal. I'd take off the clamp, wipe it clean, slide the boot back and forth, re-wipe, etc until it's a good, clean mate and then reinstall the clamps.

Yes, the small ends. I will try as you suggested this weekend.

Thanks!
 
Got a call from my mechanic doing my front brakes that both boots were torn/cracked and leaking so he recommended replacing the axles while the brakes were being done (less labor). I went ahead and had him do it before checking here...are the aftermarket parts he used that much worse than OEM? The price was reasonable ($500-ish) but I'm wondering if I made a mistake letting him use aftermarket parts. ETA: 2000 LX 145k.
 
Ok fellas I’m new to Ih8mud and new to the Toyota/Lexus family. My brothers and I had Range Rover Classics through high school and college.

I recently purchased a ‘03 LX470 with 227k miles. I am really enjoying it.

I took it to my local Toyota dealer today to have them grease the zerks on driveline. They did so for no charge but said I needed to replace front axles and quoted it at $1,100.

Below are pics of my driver side front axle boot.

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Just my 2 cents - I have looked at many 100 series over the years, and a majority of the front axle boots I have observed have some leakage on the small end of the outboard boot. (the ones in the above pics look pretty typical).

(Perhaps Toyota designed them this way so the grease they sling around would act as rustproofing for the front suspension components? :)

Unless you are doing a lot of deep water crossing, I don't think this small amount of leakage allows water or dirt into the cv joint, and I wouldn't bother with reclamping / regreasing at this point. Do however keep an eye on them as I have had boots split with as little as 110K on the odometer.

several years ago I picked up a salvage yard OEM axel for $65 + shipping off of a low mileage 100. When I get a torn boot, I swap in the spare axle, and then reboot/grease the old axle with the Toyota boot kit to keep a spare on hand. Based on the many reports of aftermarket cv axle failures, I would avoid aftermarket / remanufactured, and stick with OEM.
 
Has anyone broken an OEM CV on the trail? The front diff seems weak but overall the Toyota axles seem to be very strong on the front end.
At 250k miles and 20 years, I am opting to replace my CV's this week. Not sure if it's worth rebuilding the CVs coming off the truck to carry around a spare on the trail if it's uncommon to break.
 
Has anyone broken an OEM CV on the trail? The front diff seems weak but overall the Toyota axles seem to be very strong on the front end.
At 250k miles and 20 years, I am opting to replace my CV's this week. Not sure if it's worth rebuilding the CVs coming off the truck to carry around a spare on the trail if it's uncommon to break.

Jason are you doing this job yourself? Where did you source parts? Bill Penny?
 
I sourced this job out to Gear Grinders Garage since I am also getting the rack and pinion done.
First time I have used him so I am relying on some friend's recommendations.
BP prices are good, but I found them a little better here:
Front Axle for 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser | Toyota Parts
 
Hey guys,

Unfortunately, I'm reviving this thread seeking some advice. 1999 100 series with 147xxx on the clock. While installing my new Ironman suspension I noticed a fair amount of grease on the inner driverside wheel, fender, lower control arm area. Like an idiot, I wrote this off assuming that the dealership made a mess while repacking the wheel bearings a few months back (no mess before I took it in). Since then the truck has driven fine, no clicking/vibrations. Upon completion of my Ironman install, and cranking the new torsion bars (+20 turns each side after seated), I noticed/felt a slight clicking noise on my test drive (~5miles). Not having much experience with this type of work I assumed I forgot to fully tighten one of the many bolts during the install. After a thorough inspection, I noticed a very small tear on the outer, driver's side CV boot and determined that to be the culprit.

So, my questions:

1. Is my CV joint toast and now in need of replacement?
2. Is there anything else I can do to determine the extent of the damage? ...other than taking it to the dealer
3. Is the CV joint replacement the same as replacing the axle shaft? ....that may be a dumb question.
4. How much is something like this going to cost me?
5. How extensive of a job is it compared to the suspension?
6. Can anyone vouch for the San Deigo repair shop listed in the invoice below? Sam Lee Auto Repair

I purchase this truck about a year ago and have only put ~7000 miles on it. At the time of purchase, the dealer in San Deigo provided receipts that included axle replacement (see photos) within the last year. I'm assuming at that price ($150) they were of the non-OEM variant.

Mods completed this past weekend prior to noticing the leak:

-Ironman foam cell pro 2" (4 shocks, rear coils, torsion bars)
-Trail Tailor 2" Diff drop kit
-Trail Tailor extended sway bar links
-Ironman front bumper

Any feedback or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for everything you do here on MUD.
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