Late model vs. early FJ55 axles

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Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Threads
15
Messages
153
Location
Silver Bay, MN
I would like to call upon the knights expertise. I have a '72 that I'm dropping a 6.0 Vortec into, and I'm a little worried about the strength of my axles. I was wondering if the later model year axles with the higher number of splines are interchangable? I already have done the disc brake conversion, so Im wondering if these parts would bolt directly onto the later model axles, etc. Any information you have would be greatly appreciated!:beer:
 
Yeah, I never plan on rock crawling it or really hardcore wheeling. It will be a daily driver. I do want it capable of getting me out of sticky situations while hunting or camping... Thats why I was thinking late model, with longfiels super axle upgrades, if I could keep my brakes that is. I would like Dana 60 axles, but I dont want to start all over again, I cant afford that
 
I have 4 wheel disc brake updates from JT Outfitters on my 72 axles. Was thinking of getting a later model axle, like 78 or so, and then eventually upgrading to longfield superaxles if I had to. They dont make them for the older ones like mine. I dont have the money right now for either option, just doing some research. Besides, dont Dana 60's have 8 lug hubs? I would have to buy new rims too, and thats about $800-$1000 that I would like to avoid.
 
Your input is much appreciated Lil'John! There is a guy here in Boise who has several 55's that I bought some parts from once. He may have a late model, cant remember for sure as I didnt really know what I was looking at at the time. Anyways, if he does have one, I know his prices will be very cheap! Either way, I'm not really sure which way I will go on this, but yes, for now, I will take it real easy with the version I have. Hopefully, like you say, I can save up for what I'm sure will be necessary in the future! I liked the idea of Longfield super axles because they have a lifetime warranty, so only pay once! We shall see! Again, thanks for the input!
 
I have seen some late model landcruiser axles take a pretty good beating, from guys with V8's and 38" tires. For the wheeling, that it sounds like you will be doing (camping, some offroad, etc) you can make landcruiser axles work. Would it be "better" to have Dana 60's? Sure, but not needed. I would look at minimizing the short comings of your current axles and use them. A Longfield Superset is a pretty nice and not terribly expensive.

Just me $.02, there would be a lot of work involved with a Dana 60 swap, even if you could get the axle for cheap.

Ryan.
 
Thanks Ryan and Gumby! Thats what I was hoping for. BTW your rigs are very inspiring! Ryan, do you have a new one since you sold the Hooptie ride?
 
What size lift & tires are you planning for? I think axle width is a big consideration too. I see too many rigs jacked up w/ stock width axles that are *too narrow & vulnerable for tipping over. Generally, you should be safe up to 38's w/ Longs & Poly rears & a knuckle stud upgrade for the trail. If you're SURE about staying under 38's, & noting you have the course splined axles, a pair of 60 series axles will help a little w/ the width & stability.
 
I'm not planning on a lift at this time. Im currently running 35" BFG's and will not go larger. When I had my springs re-arched and installed the anti-inversion shackles I gained about 2.5" of lift. If anything, I may buy some wheel spacers eventually> I'd like to widen the stance about 3" overall, but haven't found any yet....
 
JTRock,

I don't have a new 55 yet, and I am not sure if I should let the cat out of the bag yet, but I am buying back my old 55. When I sold it to Eric, he promised if I ever wanted it back I could just ask, and he has certainly held up that promise. So hopefully in the coming weeks I will be driving up to his place and towing the 55 home!!!

Ryan.

Thanks Ryan and Gumby! Thats what I was hoping for. BTW your rigs are very inspiring! Ryan, do you have a new one since you sold the Hooptie ride?
 
Isn't Woody's rig a tubed out 40 with about 250hp? ie 500lbs or more lighter than a fullbodied 55 and 100hp less than lq4?:confused:

I doubt he's 500 pounds lighter. Body doesn't weigh as much as tube.

I doubt he has 200 hp. Tired old TBI.

I have a stock front axle with superlongs and fine pinion. I weigh at least as much as a stocker. My front axle is not something I worry about, although with the ram I do have to pay attention to my steering arms.

I still think D60s are overkill. Depends on how and where you wheel. It's not the answer to every question.

I know a 6.0 is overkill, but that's another question altogether.
 
I brought up Woody's rig as an example of what could be done with Fj axles. They are by no means weak because they are not D60s. Woody does more than most folks. If you wheel harder than he does, then maybe you need D60s. What you probably need is a lighter right foot and better gearing. Woody is also running super soft compound Pit Bulls. He hooks up really well.

You can compare my rig apples to apples, but most folks haven't seen my rig. Woody is a better example because a lot of people have seen him and he just does amazing stuff with his rig.


I've seen wheeling come to a complete halt with a lot of different axles. Last Dec. one of the guys we were with lost a day and many hundreds of dollars due to a broken D60 axle shaft. He ended up driving to Moser to get it replaced. I have all the confidence in the world in my Longs. As I said, it's just not something I worry about.
 
I agree with gumby. i ran stock cruiser axles in my 40, which hit the truck scale at 4780lbS. 36s, mildly built 350. never broke a birf, but then i also never pulled anyone out backwards with my front hubs locked.;)
 
Find a disk brake front axle and add some longs. Way easier and way cheaper.

Then just sell your current front disk conversion.

That being said if your not locked in the front all I would do is buy a front disk axle and put a set of long birfs and be done. You ain't rock crawling your hunting and trail riding. Big difference.


Or if your really cheap just send your birfs to Bobby and let him cryo them on the cheap. And pick up a spare or two. Seriously doubt you would ever need them with light wheeling.

Just ask yourself. Do I really need it?

Oh and while a toyota axle is not as strong as a d60 the Longs are.

129_0502_16_z+1989_toyota_4runner_suspension+torque_test_graph.jpg
 
JTRock,

I don't have a new 55 yet, and I am not sure if I should let the cat out of the bag yet, but I am buying back my old 55. When I sold it to Eric, he promised if I ever wanted it back I could just ask, and he has certainly held up that promise. So hopefully in the coming weeks I will be driving up to his place and towing the 55 home!!!

Ryan.
Thats Awesome Ryan. When i saw that you and Lou had sold your pigs I was devastated!:beer:
 
Thats funny, I just heard from Lou on the phone yesterday and it sounded like he was having a little doubt about selling his awesome 55. But I know for me, at the time it was the right thing to do, and I am sure that Lou was the same way.

I am getting really excited about getting it back and finishing it! It sounds like it is very close. I will probably go up around the begining of March and hopefully will have some new pics to share!

Ryan.
 
I ran mine with 35s and the Cummins diesel and wheeled the piss out of it and hardly had any issues with the birfields. Even on 35's with that Vortec I think you'l be OK, just get the longfields in my opinion...

- Stock axle housing
- Ditch all the JT crap, with luck get $50-$100 here for it.
- Get a mini truck or better yet FJ60 front axle with the vented brakes to pull all of the stronger disk brake parts off of.
- Use longfields...

Should have no issues. The Poly rear axles would also be nice. The only thing I ever broke was birfields but even then it was rare...
 
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