Land Cruiser Solar Power
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Phil - I've been looking at 100W Mono panels for a bit. Here's the one's I've been looking at...
Instapark 100W Mono - $197 - http://amzn.to/1nkYzrO
Renogy 100W Mono - $149 - http://amzn.to/1w3ALgj
then, when I saw your link I found...
Grape Solar - 105W Mono - http://amzn.to/1p886EM
But I don't think that is the Grape you're using (there is no way it is .12" thin!)... Could you point me at the one that you purchased (on Amazon or anywhere else)? Curious about the price...
Here is the thin panel.
http://www.grapesolar.com/photo-flex-100w.html
I bought the thin panel as well, I'm having difficulty trying to figure out how to safely mount to my new Baja Rack...I'm concerned with the wind getting under the panel and tearing it off the rack and also any wind noise associated with...
Thoughts?
Last edited:
Mount solar panel to a thin piece of steel and then mount the steel to the rack????
Stainless or Aluminum is probably the way to go.
If you want to go to extremes, use a thermally conductive copper or aluminum filled epoxy to laminate the panel to a emissive painted/finned extruded aluminum panel. It will help keep the solar cells cooler, hence more efficient. Then again, if you want to add metal for mounting, why not just buy a framed panel in the first place?
I originally had planned on mounting the panel directly to the roof of the FJC, hence the thin panel. After some more brain storming the idea evolved into mounting to a new roof rack. That is where I'm at currently.
I have given thought to selling off the thin panel and buying a framed.
Decisions...
ETA:
Thin panel is going back to Home Depot, I have ordered a framed panel.
The panel will fasten to the roof rack with these feet.
Install should be finalized the weekend of the 7th.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #29
My #1 choice for panel mounting when price is not an issue
http://www.relleumdesign.de/html/solarmount.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HX0hZCFr4_I
http://www.relleumdesign.de/html/solarmount.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HX0hZCFr4_I
Progress! Panel is secured to the roof, connection to the cabin has been made with a deck seal. I'm now working on wiring everything together inside and figuring out a place to mount the controller...
Hope to be finished and operational today!
No turning back now!
Homemade panel mounts.
Wiring coming in from the roof mount.
Hope to be finished and operational today!
No turning back now!
Homemade panel mounts.
Wiring coming in from the roof mount.
- Thread starter
- #32
Very nice!
I like the deck seal can you post more info and a link.
Looking good !!!!!
Phil, the deck seal was sourced from eBay.
There are numerous sizes.
GW, the wiring from the panel into the truck is 10ga, this is how it shipped. I'm only planning on the one panel.
Here are some more photos, it's now operational!
Deck seal installed with MC4 connectors to facilitate removal of the panel if needed.
Per Phil's advice I tied the controller into my existing Puma wiring (4ga). I used a Blue Sea Power post to make the connections. The FJ has a few cubbyholes once you remove the plastic interior, I buried the connections behind the plastic for a clean install.
I just noticed that the photo below has the wiring done wrong. I never took a corrected photo. The black wires are coming from the solar panel, they are wired into the controller, NOT the junction. The controller battery leads are connected to these posts (14g wire).
The controller is cut into one of the back panels as well.
Here is the readout right after activating the system.
The panel on the Baja Rack.
There are numerous sizes.
GW, the wiring from the panel into the truck is 10ga, this is how it shipped. I'm only planning on the one panel.
Here are some more photos, it's now operational!
Deck seal installed with MC4 connectors to facilitate removal of the panel if needed.
Per Phil's advice I tied the controller into my existing Puma wiring (4ga). I used a Blue Sea Power post to make the connections. The FJ has a few cubbyholes once you remove the plastic interior, I buried the connections behind the plastic for a clean install.
I just noticed that the photo below has the wiring done wrong. I never took a corrected photo. The black wires are coming from the solar panel, they are wired into the controller, NOT the junction. The controller battery leads are connected to these posts (14g wire).
The controller is cut into one of the back panels as well.
Here is the readout right after activating the system.
The panel on the Baja Rack.
Last edited:
Silly question maybe, but what's on the Puma circuit that is of any interest to the solar side? Or did you connect the output of the regulator to the Puma battery leads using them as part of the charge circuit?
Also - now that you have mixed 4AWG and 10AWG wire, probably want to fuse at that junction appropriate for 10AWG wire so you don't catch things on fire should you have a bump somewhere.
Also - now that you have mixed 4AWG and 10AWG wire, probably want to fuse at that junction appropriate for 10AWG wire so you don't catch things on fire should you have a bump somewhere.
Yes, the solar feeds back to the battery via the 4ga Puma wiring.
And looking at 10AWG annealed copper fusing current, 330A or so, the crimp connector may make a good enough fuse if the worst happens.
ps; I should have taken more photos during my tenure as a test engineer... my concern over these sorts of things might be more understandable.
ps; I should have taken more photos during my tenure as a test engineer... my concern over these sorts of things might be more understandable.
Sarcasm? not sure...
Are you advocating a fuse on the controller wire? I already have an 80amp circuit breaker installed in the Puma's wire run. If I trip the breaker the solar goes dead as well.
Please give more feedback.
Will I have issues when running the Puma in the sun?
Not sarcasm - sorry to come across that way. The big picture is a battery (assumed 100AH or larger - capable of thousands of short circuit amps) connected to 4AWG wire (now known to be protected by an 80 breaker - a good thing) connected to 10AWG unfused wire that gets real hot when 40A flows through it and completely melts when 300 flows throught it. What it does at 80A is uncharted territory; but we can assume that will be in a failure mode where it will try to carry it's full 300A and therefore pop the 80A breaker before things catch on fire.
So the concern is when and if the 10AWG wire insulation abrades by rubbing one of those unfinished metal edges and the bare copper contacts bare chassis metal... a short circuit across the battery occurs and the electron gods are set free. An 80A breaker should prevent things from catching on fire in those hiddens places under the panels. But you're in unchartered territory, and a 30A fuse at that junction point would be better (40A if the wire is rated for 90C operation). But understand I am unusually cautious about these things and would not certify it until fused... on the other hand you're probably good to go.
So the concern is when and if the 10AWG wire insulation abrades by rubbing one of those unfinished metal edges and the bare copper contacts bare chassis metal... a short circuit across the battery occurs and the electron gods are set free. An 80A breaker should prevent things from catching on fire in those hiddens places under the panels. But you're in unchartered territory, and a 30A fuse at that junction point would be better (40A if the wire is rated for 90C operation). But understand I am unusually cautious about these things and would not certify it until fused... on the other hand you're probably good to go.
