What is your back seat from? Looks like it folds up, does it fold forward as well?
Builds Lake Norman's '79 FJ40 Rebuild
- Thread starter LakeNorman_FJ40
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Drew..that looks AWESOME!!...tell me more about your bench style back seat...where did you get it from???...Roger
- Thread starter
- #43
Thanks Roger. How is 'Ole Yeller coming along???
The bench seat is from Man-A-Fre (hence my comment above about being the MAF poster boy). It does not fold, tumble, or anything...it is 100% fixed.
Searched high/low for a rear seat. Rummaged through the Pull-A-Part yards and tried Suzuki Samurai, Geo Tracker, Jeep Wrangler, Izusu Amigo, and minivan seats but none met my criteria of:
- very safe/secure seating in the event of accident/rollover
- comfortable for 2 kids (don't want to hear complaints all day)
- must attach to the rear wheel wells (the Aqualu storage well limits my seat mounting point options)
- include all of the rear seat belt mounting points
- allow decent access to the Aqualu storage well in the floor below the seat
- if possible, come in black (vinyl) and look like it belongs in the FJ40
In the end the MAF rear seat was about the only one that met these requirements and looked like it belongs in the FJ40. The MAF seat was made to secure four points for each two rear seat harnesses. The fifth harness point (an anti-submarine belt) I added as the harnesses like to rise up on your sternum when you tighten them down. The anti-sub belt has to be ordered directly from Crow and required me to drill the floor to secure them properly.
Other +'s about the seat:
- well thought out...over built...very secure...one more thing to tie together the tub from side to side
- thick comfortable cushions
- removeable covers
- adjustable brackets...can raise/lower height of seat
Other -'s about the seat:
- sits high and has a tall back (limits rear vision when backing up...but you could adjust the brackets and drop it down lower between wheel wells)
- price
So far, my son has about 8 - 10 hours of seat time in it (sleeping for 2 - 4 of those hours...propped up with a camping pillow). He prefers the front seat, but the front seat w/out doors isn't safe for him.
The bench seat is from Man-A-Fre (hence my comment above about being the MAF poster boy). It does not fold, tumble, or anything...it is 100% fixed.
Searched high/low for a rear seat. Rummaged through the Pull-A-Part yards and tried Suzuki Samurai, Geo Tracker, Jeep Wrangler, Izusu Amigo, and minivan seats but none met my criteria of:
- very safe/secure seating in the event of accident/rollover
- comfortable for 2 kids (don't want to hear complaints all day)
- must attach to the rear wheel wells (the Aqualu storage well limits my seat mounting point options)
- include all of the rear seat belt mounting points
- allow decent access to the Aqualu storage well in the floor below the seat
- if possible, come in black (vinyl) and look like it belongs in the FJ40
In the end the MAF rear seat was about the only one that met these requirements and looked like it belongs in the FJ40. The MAF seat was made to secure four points for each two rear seat harnesses. The fifth harness point (an anti-submarine belt) I added as the harnesses like to rise up on your sternum when you tighten them down. The anti-sub belt has to be ordered directly from Crow and required me to drill the floor to secure them properly.
Other +'s about the seat:
- well thought out...over built...very secure...one more thing to tie together the tub from side to side
- thick comfortable cushions
- removeable covers
- adjustable brackets...can raise/lower height of seat
Other -'s about the seat:
- sits high and has a tall back (limits rear vision when backing up...but you could adjust the brackets and drop it down lower between wheel wells)
- price
So far, my son has about 8 - 10 hours of seat time in it (sleeping for 2 - 4 of those hours...propped up with a camping pillow). He prefers the front seat, but the front seat w/out doors isn't safe for him.
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not busting down on your rig cause it looks gorgeous... but did you notice.. or is it just me.. that it looks like the front part of your cowl is bent inwards on both sides.. i'm thinking of the full aqualu tub myself so i was curious
very very nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just ordered that rear MAF rear tire carrier and cooler holder.... got my 3/4 tub to install still.... I was very impressed with how quickly you got this project done!!!! looks great!!! few questions for you...
1. I order MAF 4+ rock sliders.... are those the same on your truck... do you like?
2. I am going to SEM my bottom of the tub also.... and the inside also... did you put primer down first or just spray the SEM on the tub? Why did you not do SEm on the inside?
3. how close is your exhaust run on the bottom of the tub? any problems with the heat and the SEM?? can you take a pic for me??
Thanks....
1. I order MAF 4+ rock sliders.... are those the same on your truck... do you like?
2. I am going to SEM my bottom of the tub also.... and the inside also... did you put primer down first or just spray the SEM on the tub? Why did you not do SEm on the inside?
3. how close is your exhaust run on the bottom of the tub? any problems with the heat and the SEM?? can you take a pic for me??
Thanks....
Awesome!
- Thread starter
- #47
AntFJ: Good eyes. 
Just kidding! Yes, the entire front end took a bunch of tweaking to get the hood to line up flush with the bib, so the adjustments I made had the cowl-to-apron gap at the bottom of the list of priorities. Keep in mind that the tub is not pre-drilled by Aqualu (except for the 2 rear-most holes under the tailgate), so you have to figure out where everything fits best and hope you located the right spots to drill holes. If I would have pre-fit everything 
I would have bent the front most area on the cowl (in front of the louvers) outwards a little and the gap would be close to stock. Could have used my HiLift jack or ratchet straps to bend these panels outward. But, if I bend these sections now, I risk cracking the paint, :whoops: so I will live with the larger gaps. On the plus side, when the engine is running it vents a fair amount of air through these gaps, so I view it as improved engine cooling! 
Apeterson: Thanks for the comments. This is my 3rd auto restoration (my first FJ40), so that's probably why the timeframe was short...plus my wife
wanted it done ASAP b/c this truck wasn't ever supposed to find itself being fully-restored ("...it's a trail truck honey - you don't restore it...you just drive it."). 
What really helped shorten the restoration time was not having to build to a show-quality level (like my last project that took me 2 years) since I knew this truck was going on the trails. Hopefully my replies below help. To answer your questions:
1. MAF 4+ rock sliders: Yes, these are the MAF 4+ Sliders + Tube. Love 'em...very heavy...should protect the aluminum rockers and strengthen that area. The step it provides was really needed to get in the truck and the tube extends further than the stock side steps, which will give me good access to the roof rack that is going on with the hardtop. When you install these on the Aqualu tub there is one spot you have to grind down on the underside of the tub to fit a nut and washer on the backside of the rocker area...will make sense when you install it...nothing major. Also, would suggest that you add a section of non-slip tape so you can really get a grip on the tube with your shoes when climbing into the FJ40.
2. SEM: The ENTIRE tub (every square inch...both sides) was sanded by yours truly with 80 - 120 DA...then the ENTIRE tub was primed with self-etching epoxy primer...didn't want any chance of poor adhesion on aluminum from paint and/or bed liners. After having it on there for a few miles, I'd still recommend applying SEM just to the bottom of the tub and fenders...not sure I'd recommend the inside...you can't apply SEM as thick as RhinoLiner and it doesn't provide the same level of protection, insulation, and abrasion resistance that RhinoLiner provides. My wrenches have bumped a couple spots on the SEM and it holds under moderate impacts but tends to want to flake off if you hit it too hard, I have RhinoLiner compressed under the tension of grade-8 bolt torque and no issues with flaking or tearing. Rhino requires a lot of effort with a sharp razor knife just to start to remove it. If your build budget allows, get the RhinoLiner color tinted and applied to the underside. I chose Rhino inside mostly for the noise & heat insulation value and the black color so there's no scuff marks over time. The SEM on the underside was a cost compromise and allowed the finish to be glossy which does make washing the mud off a little easier...but it simply doesn't protect/insulate to the same level as RhinoLiner. Would REALLY hate to be driving this thing in bare aluminum...the noise from rocks/pebbles "pinging" the aluminum, general road noise, and the heat transfer would be aggravating on a regular basis.
3. Exhaust: The muffler is the closest part of the exhaust to the tub...and the muffler sits in the same location as the catalytic converter (about 3 - 4" from the driver's side floor). No problems with heat and SEM, but I did safety wire a NASA quality heat sheild (look at BSR Products via an online search) to the top of the muffler as the floor was getting a little warm...was more worried about heat while sitting on trails than running around town (where air blows over everthing). Will try and get another pic or two of the exhaust posted...might be next weekend before I get the chance.
Just kidding! Yes, the entire front end took a bunch of tweaking to get the hood to line up flush with the bib, so the adjustments I made had the cowl-to-apron gap at the bottom of the list of priorities. Keep in mind that the tub is not pre-drilled by Aqualu (except for the 2 rear-most holes under the tailgate), so you have to figure out where everything fits best and hope you located the right spots to drill holes. If I would have pre-fit everything I would have bent the front most area on the cowl (in front of the louvers) outwards a little and the gap would be close to stock. Could have used my HiLift jack or ratchet straps to bend these panels outward. But, if I bend these sections now, I risk cracking the paint, :whoops: so I will live with the larger gaps. On the plus side, when the engine is running it vents a fair amount of air through these gaps, so I view it as improved engine cooling! Apeterson: Thanks for the comments. This is my 3rd auto restoration (my first FJ40), so that's probably why the timeframe was short...plus my wife
wanted it done ASAP b/c this truck wasn't ever supposed to find itself being fully-restored ("...it's a trail truck honey - you don't restore it...you just drive it."). What really helped shorten the restoration time was not having to build to a show-quality level (like my last project that took me 2 years) since I knew this truck was going on the trails. Hopefully my replies below help. To answer your questions:1. MAF 4+ rock sliders: Yes, these are the MAF 4+ Sliders + Tube. Love 'em...very heavy...should protect the aluminum rockers and strengthen that area. The step it provides was really needed to get in the truck and the tube extends further than the stock side steps, which will give me good access to the roof rack that is going on with the hardtop. When you install these on the Aqualu tub there is one spot you have to grind down on the underside of the tub to fit a nut and washer on the backside of the rocker area...will make sense when you install it...nothing major. Also, would suggest that you add a section of non-slip tape so you can really get a grip on the tube with your shoes when climbing into the FJ40.
2. SEM: The ENTIRE tub (every square inch...both sides) was sanded by yours truly with 80 - 120 DA...then the ENTIRE tub was primed with self-etching epoxy primer...didn't want any chance of poor adhesion on aluminum from paint and/or bed liners. After having it on there for a few miles, I'd still recommend applying SEM just to the bottom of the tub and fenders...not sure I'd recommend the inside...you can't apply SEM as thick as RhinoLiner and it doesn't provide the same level of protection, insulation, and abrasion resistance that RhinoLiner provides. My wrenches have bumped a couple spots on the SEM and it holds under moderate impacts but tends to want to flake off if you hit it too hard, I have RhinoLiner compressed under the tension of grade-8 bolt torque and no issues with flaking or tearing. Rhino requires a lot of effort with a sharp razor knife just to start to remove it. If your build budget allows, get the RhinoLiner color tinted and applied to the underside. I chose Rhino inside mostly for the noise & heat insulation value and the black color so there's no scuff marks over time. The SEM on the underside was a cost compromise and allowed the finish to be glossy which does make washing the mud off a little easier...but it simply doesn't protect/insulate to the same level as RhinoLiner. Would REALLY hate to be driving this thing in bare aluminum...the noise from rocks/pebbles "pinging" the aluminum, general road noise, and the heat transfer would be aggravating on a regular basis.
3. Exhaust: The muffler is the closest part of the exhaust to the tub...and the muffler sits in the same location as the catalytic converter (about 3 - 4" from the driver's side floor). No problems with heat and SEM, but I did safety wire a NASA quality heat sheild (look at BSR Products via an online search) to the top of the muffler as the floor was getting a little warm...was more worried about heat while sitting on trails than running around town (where air blows over everthing). Will try and get another pic or two of the exhaust posted...might be next weekend before I get the chance.
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awesome.. definitely something i'll have to consider.. thanks for the love 
Nice work.
Lot o hard work on this tub.
Sounds like it time for the family roll cage now.
Lot o hard work on this tub.
Sounds like it time for the family roll cage now.
Can you comment a little more on what you had to tweak on you're front end to get things to line up? Did you have to drill any holes to relocate or shift parts around? I'm currently wrestling with my stock steel front end and aqualu tub at the moment. I can get the skirt/fender and body to line up great, but my hood and skirt look all jacked up. I've tried raising the skirt with some rubber, shifting everything around, and at this point I'm a little stumped. When I bolt everything together I don't really have much play to work with so.......Any tips or tricks you went through would be a great help. Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #52
Since I was running a full-tub (sounds like you still have the steel cowl?) and new steel stock fenders, it required some trial & error to get it all to fit right.
What I did was open up some of the holes in the fender tops and then assembled the whole front end loose. Standing on the passenger side I rotated the fender clockwise (or counter-clockwise if you are on the driver's side) towards the front of the truck. This allowed the hood to line-up with the bib/grille which was my only fitment problem area.
If this wasn't your fitment problem area, you'll have to better describe what is happening on yours...
I'm still working on the top. While the tub and fenders have zero body filler, the much older hardtop sides, roof cap, full-doors (new bottoms welded on), and the Paki half-doors are requiring a ton of bodywork.
What I did was open up some of the holes in the fender tops and then assembled the whole front end loose. Standing on the passenger side I rotated the fender clockwise (or counter-clockwise if you are on the driver's side) towards the front of the truck. This allowed the hood to line-up with the bib/grille which was my only fitment problem area.
If this wasn't your fitment problem area, you'll have to better describe what is happening on yours...
I'm still working on the top. While the tub and fenders have zero body filler, the much older hardtop sides, roof cap, full-doors (new bottoms welded on), and the Paki half-doors are requiring a ton of bodywork.
WOW!!!
I see you have been to the holy land.
Love the 40.
Love the 40.
Gus
SILVER Star
Very nice looking 40 and write up, I hope to have my 40 looking similar at some point.
ANy piCs oF tHe UndEr CaRriage? eXhauSt sYstEm?
Outstanding
I must say you have done an outstanding job on ure FJ 40 Mate.
It is a credit to hard work and commitment.
Long Live 40 Shorties.
Tim
I must say you have done an outstanding job on ure FJ 40 Mate.
It is a credit to hard work and commitment.
Long Live 40 Shorties.
Tim
- Thread starter
- #60
Thanks for the compliments. After all the hard work last year to re-do most of the 40, I just couldn't get the energy to finish the hard top and doors so we drove it all winter long with no top!
This year, I'm FINALLY getting around to finishing the hardtop. Fitted the side and door panels to the aluminum tub last night. Also in the process of converting to the rear liftgate. Also replacing all the seals and weatherstrips in the doors. Will simply leave it in primer to make sure it all fits and works together well...maybe next summer get the top and doors painted.
Guess this means I have to install the heater too now...
This year, I'm FINALLY getting around to finishing the hardtop. Fitted the side and door panels to the aluminum tub last night. Also in the process of converting to the rear liftgate. Also replacing all the seals and weatherstrips in the doors. Will simply leave it in primer to make sure it all fits and works together well...maybe next summer get the top and doors painted.
Guess this means I have to install the heater too now...
