knuckle seals and bushings and bearings and spines oil and grease cheat sheet?

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can anyone help me proof this list for a knuckle job?
A. what am i using to grease seals? anyone know which seals are getting greased?
B. also somewhere i had a note i could use valvoline palladium moly for wheel bearings and spindles but wondering if it's better to use the Mobil 1 Synth Red.
C. does this little cheat sheet look right? should i lube the splines with moly?
any other mission critical items?
D. how does this list look?
THANKS
-
DIFFERENTIAL OIL TYPE: hypoid gear oil API GL-5
OIL VISCOSITY:
above -18dC (0dF): SAE 90.
below -18dC (0dF) SAE 80W or SAE 80W-90
>REDLINE gear lube 75W-90,
>MOBIL 1 gear lube,
>AMSOIL gear lube,
>CHEVRON delo gear lube (ESI 80W90).

WHEEL BEARINGS and PINION BEARINGS: lithium base wheel bearing grease, NLGI No.2
> Valvoline Palladium #2 3% Moly, Heavy Duty (HD) Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge
> MOBIL 1 Synth Red

KNUCKLES (2X): lithium base wheel bearing grease, NLGI No.2
> Valvoline Palladium #2 3% Moly, Heavy Duty (HD) Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge
> LUCAS red N tacky grease 14 OZ cartridge or tub.

SEALS + BUSHINGS ?

IMG_8105.jpeg
 
All the info you need and more


Then this is one of the better videos
 
Palladium 3% Moly fortified grease for the CV joint, trunnion bearings, and knuckle cavity
Palladium 3% Moly grease or Mobil 1 for the wheel bearings, your choice. I've run Mobil 1 for years,
no issues. Everyone has their own favorite grease, doesn't seem to matter as long as the grease is approved for automotive wheel bearings.

It does matter for the CV joint and knuckle, a Molybdenum fortified grease is required. FWIW Valvoline used to make a 5% Moly Palladium in 14oz tubes but apparently it's now only available in pails, kegs, drums, or totes.

Most people do not use the fish scale method for setting bearing preload, search under Landtank (user) and use search terms wheel bearing preload
 
Last edited:
Palladium 3% Moly fortified grease for the CV joint, trunnion bearings, and knuckle cavity
Palladium 3% Moly grease or Mobil 1 for the wheel bearings, your choice. I've run Mobil 1 for years,
no issues. Everyone has their own favorite grease, doesn't seem to matter as long as the grease is approved for automotive wheel bearings.

It does matter for the CV joint and knuckle, a Molybdenum fortified grease is required. FWIW Valvoline used to make a 5% Moly Palladium in 14oz tubes but apparently it's now only available in pails, kegs, drums, or totes.

Most people do not use the fish scale method for setting bearing preload, search under Landtank (user) and use search terms wheel bearing preload
hey man. thanks so much for this.
i ran by orielly's and they didn't have either of them on the shelf and i didn't want to do one of these things where i run all over town so i was going to order it online.
but now i am thinking i could just go into oriellys and order it so i don't make a mistake?
anyway you are saying that i can get a tub of the Palladium and call it a day because i can use that for seals, bearings, splines and for filling the knuckle?
but maybe i should also have some tubes for redlines knuckle when it needs it so i can use a fun?
thoughts kernal? does that sound about right?
also i AM greasing her splines on the axle i gather? for some reason i don't remember seeing anyone do this?
> Valvoline Palladium #2 3% Moly, Heavy Duty (HD) Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge
 
Palladium 3% Moly fortified grease for the CV joint, trunnion bearings, and knuckle cavity
Palladium 3% Moly grease or Mobil 1 for the wheel bearings, your choice. I've run Mobil 1 for years,
no issues. Everyone has their own favorite grease, doesn't seem to matter as long as the grease is approved for automotive wheel bearings.

It does matter for the CV joint and knuckle, a Molybdenum fortified grease is required. FWIW Valvoline used to make a 5% Moly Palladium in 14oz tubes but apparently it's now only available in pails, kegs, drums, or totes.

Most people do not use the fish scale method for setting bearing preload, search under Landtank (user) and use search terms wheel bearing preload
hey! OTRAMM seems to use moly for seals and the TRUNION bearings.
but he seems to specifically use red grease for the wheel bearings.
does this stuff look right? it's red...

IMG_8166.jpeg


IMG_8167.jpeg


IMG_8168.jpeg


IMG_8169.jpeg
 
Lots of threads and videos on this topic so you should be covered. The wheels bearings use red grease (no need for grease gun tubes, just get a small tub), everything else will by moly.

In case it's not on your list already be sure to include a bunch of blue disposable paper towels, nitrile gloves and some brake cleaner since it's a messy job.

Clean off the workbench in advance so you have a nice clean surface to lay everything out. Take photos as you go so you can refer back if needed.

Do one side at a time, the first side will take a while, the second side will be much faster. If you are in a garage make sure there is enough space to pull the axles out.
 
Lots of threads and videos on this topic so you should be covered. The wheels bearings use red grease (no need for grease gun tubes, just get a small tub), everything else will by moly.

In case it's not on your list already be sure to include a bunch of blue disposable paper towels, nitrile gloves and some brake cleaner since it's a messy job.

Clean off the workbench in advance so you have a nice clean surface to lay everything out. Take photos as you go so you can refer back if needed.

Do one side at a time, the first side will take a while, the second side will be much faster. If you are in a garage make sure there is enough space to pull the axles out.
hey. thanks a lot.
i had for run around to find that stuff and of course no one at the stores know anything.
it seemed like OTRAMM used moly for everything including the spindle bearings or whatever i call those deals at the knuckle. but he used the red for the wheel bearings.
it does look to me like two tubes should cover the four bearings?
also can i ask a couple more please?
it seemed do me like the adjusting nut and the lock nut in the OTRAMM Video were kind of loose. like the lock nut seemed kind of loose but the adjusting nut seemed like it was completely loose. maybe he didn't show a step but it seemed weird.
also all the bearings seemed pretty loose. i guess the spindle bearings are held in by the flats on the birfirld? but the wheel bearings seemed kind of loose fit. or like you would put the bearings in the freezer to get them back in.
lastly please. everyone keeps saying if you have to do front rotors and calipers you may as well do knuckles. this doesn't really make sense to me. i'm thinking to get in and do the rotors and calipers now and to come back and do the knuckles later.
seems like i only need that star washer. am i wrong? my knuckles seem like they can wait and it seems like a tone of work i could do later. am i missing something?
 
NAPA stores usually have the Valvoline Palladium with 3% Moly in stock, or you can order it from Summit Racing, IIRC I used ~5 tubes for the knuckles
and CV joints, then you'll need some for the slip yolks on the driveshafts. The Mobil 1 Synthetic grease is a good wheel bearing grease.

FWIW Mobil makes dozens of different greases for commercial, marine and industrial uses all over the world, some that appear they might be better for automotive wheel bearings than the Mobil 1. After a couple of long discussions with one of their engineers he said (compared to some of their other synthetic industrial greases), that the Mobil 1 Synthetic was still their best for automotive wheel bearings.

Been discussed a gazzillion times, long story short, just about any grease that is approved for automotive wheel bearing use is good enough for our trucks.

 
hey gents. thanks a time for this. a couple more please?
1. is there a kit for drivers by CSC or something? toolman specifically mentions his kit didn't have the right size driver for the rotor seal but the guy whose truck he was working in did have a kit with the right seal size. maybe he mentions the kit later but i didn't see it yet?
2. how do i do 7 new lines? do i clamp the body to axle lines at the top snd then take it off at the bottom and then put new line in at bottom and then quickly remove line at tip and get the new line in fast? do i clamp a soft line below the master cylinder?
3. is there a way to torque a new rotor with it on the axle? roman says to get someone to hold it when torquing the new rotor on but it seems like you could do it yourself if you were crafty?
4. any good vids on doing brakes? like i a have "speed bleeders" that are going into the calipers but i'm still a little hazy on how i bored lines? do i need two people? can i do it by gravity or by clamping lines?
THANKS
 

This video is a good one.
 
thanks man.
does anyone know if i can use the old races to drive the new ones in? also it seems like that deal could just be done with like a wood block? so technically i don't need a driver kit really?
You can borrow a bearing driver kit from a local parts store. I bought an inexpensive one when I did mine and it's come in handy since when replacing other bearings.

I'd recommend a new rotor and new bearings.
 

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