Well, while you’re in there you might as well replace master cylinder anyway....
Knuckle rebuild and question already.
- Thread starter Major Nelson
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- Thread starter
- #22
had time to get back to the knuckles today...think I should have enough time tomorrow to finish it up. One thing I noted between the schematic in the FSM and my front axle was the gasket placement. On mine (87) there is a gasket on the spindle behind the dust cover and then the only thing on the front of the dust cover is the dust seal. In the FSM (1984 version) there is no gasket between the spindle and the dust cover. Based on the shape of the gasket it seems that the gasket should be on the front of the spindle behind the dust cover. I'm assuming the FSM is correct....but the orientation for the gasket seems to make sense being on the front of the spindle, not on the front of the dust cover.
Thanks
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #23
also, is it possible to check the pre-load directly from the knuckle? I didn't have the tool to remove the knuckle arm from the tie rod and beating it with a hammer wasn't getting me anywhere. I could try the pickle fork but was concerned that could jack up the tie rod end.
- Thread starter
- #24
Final question. I'd seen somewhere where it was recommended to coat the felt with some of the moly grease, but haven't been able to find that. Am I supposed to apply grease to either the felt or rubber gasket.
I also need to get a new oil seal retainer....mine are beaten to crap.
I also need to get a new oil seal retainer....mine are beaten to crap.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I ran into a similar issue when doing my knuckles. Various schematics seemed to show different things. Have a look here for what I ended up doing:
Its worked fine for me after two years of use. Have a look through the rest of that thread as well for additional tips from the good folks here on MUD.
As far as coating the felt, I coated mine with some grease. They get coated anyway over time during normal use but I went ahead and got mine coated up before installing them. Helps to waterproof them a bit and seal things up some for first use.
I'm not sure what you mean here by checking pre-load "directly from the knuckle". AFAIK thats the way you check pre-load, assuming the pre-load you are talking about is the fish scale check pulling on a free turning knuckle with new trunion bearings. Not sure how you could check that while attached to the steering gear.
I think pickle forks can mess up the TRE grease seal if you are not careful. I would get the tool and separate the TRE from the knuckle arm myself. I used one of these which steers clear of the grease seal:
Ball joint separator tool. Popped right out. Might want to put the castle nut on to prevent the tie rod from flying around when it separates. Its a pretty substantial pop when it lets go. Having said all that, just hammering on the knuckle arm end should break it free without the tool. YMMV.
GL. HTH.
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I've done more than a few knuckle jobs over the years and have always installed the felt dry. As pointed out they get coated anyway during normal use.
Regarding the grease coating for waterproofing this idea just came to me and I may try it next time if I remember. Instead of coating with grease perhaps soak the felt in gear or engine oil for immediate deeper waterproofing of the felt. Just an idea.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
This would prolly work better than the grease. I added grease to mine but to be honest I had a hard time getting the grease to soak in. My felts were so stiff that the grease just really didn't seem to do much and they ended up going on fairly dry even after adding grease to them. Oil prolly would penetrate better as suggested above. I am not sure how much it really matters coated or uncoated. Again they get coated during normal use. Thinking back on it now I think I might have done one side greased and realized it didn't do much so skipped it on the other side. I did a quick romp through the chassis FSM and didn't see where coating them with anything was mentioned. At your discretion.
Saying you "did it like the FSM" doesn't really mean anything b/c the FSM shows one way in the schematic and says another in the written directions. Both seem to be working.
Gretsch says his is holding.
Gretsch says his is holding.
I think, unless you’re planning a water crossing or snow trek within the first 500 miles of a knuckle rebuild, it is a moot point. And even then, water will be expelled by the 1,000 pounds of grease packed in the knuckle.
I think its a moot point unless you have gear oil saturating your knuckle from a bad axle seal. then birf soup runs down you inner tire/wheel. 
No 1000 lbs of grease here...knuckles don't get pressure packed...only fill the knuckle 3/4th full.
No 1000 lbs of grease here...knuckles don't get pressure packed...only fill the knuckle 3/4th full.
I was kidding. It feels like 1000 lbsI think its a moot point unless you have gear oil saturating your knuckle from a bad axle seal. then birf soup runs down you inner tire/wheel.
No 1000 lbs of grease here...knuckles don't get pressure packed...only fill the knuckle 3/4th full.
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- Thread starter
- #33
So i've got the driver's side "done" with both the thick and thin shim on the bearing caps. My old shims were really beaten up badly so no hope of re-using them, plus I think there was way too much play regardless.
Here's my problem. I'm getting a pre-load reading of in between 15-17lbs when I check it. I'm running 33's so I know i'm supposed to be at around 15 lbs, but I think 17lbs is too much. If it is too much where can I just buy some more of the thick shims so that I can do both sides....or is 15-17lbs ok for me?
Thanks,
Kevin
Here's my problem. I'm getting a pre-load reading of in between 15-17lbs when I check it. I'm running 33's so I know i'm supposed to be at around 15 lbs, but I think 17lbs is too much. If it is too much where can I just buy some more of the thick shims so that I can do both sides....or is 15-17lbs ok for me?
Thanks,
Kevin
You’re probably okay but you could call cruiser outfitters and they probably stock them.
Rather than start a new thread to ask my question, I thought I'd tack it on this one:
What are the consequences of deferring a knuckle rebuild? I've seen a lot of 60s with knuckles that look pretty gunk'd up, and folks just keep driving on them. The consequences for a full-time 4WD truck like an 80 seem more obvious, but for a part-time truck like a 60 I'm just not sure.
What are the consequences of deferring a knuckle rebuild? I've seen a lot of 60s with knuckles that look pretty gunk'd up, and folks just keep driving on them. The consequences for a full-time 4WD truck like an 80 seem more obvious, but for a part-time truck like a 60 I'm just not sure.
Just make sure the grease in the Birf Ball is topped up. There's a square-head plug on the top you can remove and check and squirt in some appropriate type grease if you need to.
The consequences of deferred maintenance is increased wear.
JT Outfitters sells these if you're inclined.
The consequences of deferred maintenance is increased wear.
JT Outfitters sells these if you're inclined.
I've never really understood why those fittings would be a "plus"... I get that it's easy to just pop your grease gun on it and go... but then you couldn't gauge how full the knuckle is and also run the risk of over pressuring it, no?
It's simple enough to remove the plug and stick the grease gun hose (without a zerk nozzle) and you can clearly tell when the grease quantity is up to the fill port.
I feel like Toyota designed it this way for a reason. Am I missing something?
It's simple enough to remove the plug and stick the grease gun hose (without a zerk nozzle) and you can clearly tell when the grease quantity is up to the fill port.
I feel like Toyota designed it this way for a reason. Am I missing something?
@toy_tek I think you’re right on.