Knuckle rebuild and question already. (1 Viewer)

[Major Nelson]

Ok, I've watched every video I could find on doing the knuckles on my FJ60 and overall it seems like a relatively straight forward job. One area I did have a question on (that I didn't see in any of the videos was disconnecting the brake lines - which seems like an obvious to get the birf, knuckle, spindle etc out).

Can someone confirm that to disconnect the lines I need to disconnect starting at the hardline (using 10MM channel wrench) then just spin off the rubber brake line. Also is it ok to just leave the caliper attached to the dust cover, or it disconnecting it easier in the long run.

Finally, what's best to plug the brake line to minimize the brake fluid from dripping out?

I'm also assuming that the nut on the hardline (attached to the axle) is just a normal counter clockwise rotation to disconnect if I'm looking at the nut (ie from under the car looking out to the back of the dust cover.

I know, probably some dumb questions....but I figure better than making some dumb mistake.

I've got all the nuts soaking in some pb blaster to loosen up anything that's rusty.

As always thank you for your help!

 

[OSS]

ideally you want to use a 10mm flare nut wrench shown to loosen the brake line nut. It unscrews counterclockwise like everything else. The brake line pipe can be plugged by slipping a piece of tight fitting clear vinyl tuning over it and then crimping the vinyl tubing with vise grips or something.
The caliper comes off once the two big bolts and the brake pipe are removed.
If you want to replace the knuckle bearings, everything has to come off.

 

[hj 60]

If you remove the brake line a rubber cap can prevent draining the fluid.
Try to clean the caliper bolts at their end (difficult to reach: some brake cleaner) because they can grab rust and sand in the thread and then needs new thread.
Smart to soak it first, could be there for 30 years.

for now it shows the rubber cap, later it might show how to retread using a helicoil

Might change brake disc also, clean caliper, replace seals, while your there nightmare:

90311-48010 OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL for leaks near speedo gear with oil on axle and
90311-33085 SEAL DRIVESHAFT type T for birfield leak oil on brakedisk.

it is a (OMG!!1!!, so many smileys now, Wow!! )

Anyway, don't look at the time when doing this, it is a magical disaster to time and resources, you have the seals and gaskets and so?
Good luck!

Brass drift, 3 kilogram hammer, socket 54, C-clip pliers?

best to get a proper nut so thread is not damaged (or repaired when removed) and cone can not jump and hide:

 

[Major Nelson]

Thank you both.

 

[BaristaBoy]

I just let the brake line drip when I did mine, doesn't hurt to change the fluid out. make sure to follow the proper brake bleeding procedure. It's good you have it soaking in PB, I found that heat was the second biggest help with my knuckles, and a brass drift that you're prepared to beat to death. also make sure one of your punches is long enough to go through the top of the knuckle and reach the bottom, I had to run out and get one to drive the old races. The hardline going from the caliper to the axle can be disconnected on both sides, if it comes off easily I would- I damaged mine by accident and had to replace with softlines, and if you get rid of the backing plate(which you shouldn't) you'll need to replace them, NAPA #38881 works pretty well for that.

 

[Major Nelson]

@OSS I was trying to decided whether to bother painting my knuckle...your pic might be the one that pushes me over the hump to do it.

 

[BaristaBoy]

later it might show how to retread using a helicoil

How's that holding up? I follow the guy who runs Tandem offroad and he replaced both knuckles instead of helicoiling one side on the caliper bolts, I wonder how necessary it was

 

[Major Nelson]

@hj 60 Thanks for all the pics....and yes, I did get a pair c-clip pliers. Realized how impossible it would have been for me if I tried using snap ring pliers.

 

[fjc-man]

If you’re not replacing the calipers with rebuilt ones during your knuckle rebuild, why don’t you just unbolt the brake line junction block from the disc backing plate that the caliper hard line and the flex hose attach to. Giving you enough flexibility to just hang the calipers out of your way with a piece of coat hanger? At least that’s the FJ40 drill with front disc brakes.

 

[hj 60]

Helicoil M12x1,25 is fine and pretty important keeping the caliper where it should, driving 4000 km with boattrailer to Croatia to 1500 meters uphill and back to sealevel.
I should have bought the step tapper to get a perfect like new repair, but that thing is another 70 euros.

helicoil step tapper 01429129450

https://www.maschinenhandel-sued.de/en/HELICOIL--M12x1-25-Step-Tapper.html

Professional step tapper with guiding thread. For HELICOIL® M12x1,25 inserts
Tapper uses damaged thread as guide to center coaxial bigger thread for Helicoil inserts. Allows perfectly aligned tapping for Helicoil inserts in one step.

the instructions are the same for any tap I think:

 

[Spike Strip]

I've never seen a 'Step Tapper' like that before ... Seems to be a Euro tool as I do not see any listings for USA supplier. Interesting. Thanks for posting, @hj 60

btw, that link to 'World's Money Market Visual' is incredible!

 

[Major Nelson]

man, I hate rust.

I'm on day three of soaking the nut on the brake hardline to break free so that I can get the dust cover off. Working on the drivers side first (though I need to go get a new pry bar to get the upper bearing cap loose so that I can get the upper race and bearing out.

 

[Major Nelson]

Curious when people change any of the studs on the upper and lower bearing cap. Same question on the brass bushing in the spindle? i know the PO never took the FJ60 off road (used it as a handy man vehicle)......is it only when the 60's have been run really hard?

 

[fjc-man]

man, I hate rust.

I'm on day three of soaking the nut on the brake hardline to break free so that I can get the dust cover off. Working on the drivers side first (though I need to go get a new pry bar to get the upper bearing cap loose so that I can get the upper race and bearing out.

Take the three bolts out of the dust cover that hold that hard line to flex line union and leave the hard line alone. Don’t even take the hard line loose at the caliper, just hang it out of your way with a metal coat hanger or something.

 

[BaristaBoy]

Curious when people change any of the studs on the upper and lower bearing cap. Same question on the brass bushing in the spindle? i know the PO never took the FJ60 off road (used it as a handy man vehicle)......is it only when the 60's have been run really hard?

If you can find the Studs I would replace them, I regret not doing mine. You only need to replace the bushing if its worn or grooved, I replaced mine that I’m pretty sure was from the factory but I didnt need too and it was a time consuming process

 

[Major Nelson]

Take the three bolts out of the dust cover that hold that hard line to flex line union and leave the hard line alone.

I’m not sure how I missed that I could disconnect the brake line from the dust cover. Dang it. Still don’t know why Toyota didn’t go straight from the hardline to the caliper.

 

[Spook50]

I just let the brake line drip when I did mine, doesn't hurt to change the fluid out. make sure to follow the proper brake bleeding procedure. It's good you have it soaking in PB, I found that heat was the second biggest help with my knuckles, and a brass drift that you're prepared to beat to death. also make sure one of your punches is long enough to go through the top of the knuckle and reach the bottom, I had to run out and get one to drive the old races. The hardline going from the caliper to the axle can be disconnected on both sides, if it comes off easily I would- I damaged mine by accident and had to replace with softlines, and if you get rid of the backing plate(which you shouldn't) you'll need to replace them, NAPA #38881 works pretty well for that.

The potential issue there is allowing the master cylinder to drain out, then you have to bench bleed it before bleeding the rest of the system. Makes for extra work and annoyance.

 

[cps432]

The potential issue there is allowing the master cylinder to drain out, then you have to bench bleed it before bleeding the rest of the system. Makes for extra work and annoyance.

But if your fluid is black and rusty then it qualifies as ‘killing two birds with one stone’.

 

[fjc-man]

You’ll have enough to deal with doing the bearings and seals. Make dealing with the brakes a separate project.

 

[Dr. John]

But if your fluid is black and rusty then it qualifies as ‘killing two birds with one stone’.

Still easier to flush with fresh fluid, than to remove and bench bleed.