knuckle adjusting nut final torque (timmy the tool man)? (5 Viewers)

[landcruiser3DP]

EDIT: never mind. he spends 40 minutes incrementally getting it tighter and tighter until the fish scale puts him in the ballpark...
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FSM says 48 inch pounds for the final torque on this adjusting nut. preload was 43 ft lb.
this is what this timmy the tool man does. he goes in for 43 ft lb preload. undoes it and then final torque is 48 INCH pounds.
am i correct in understanding both of these are wrong and it should be like 45 or 48 foot pounds for the final setting?
just checking here since the video seems wrong. maybe someone corrected him in the comments but seemed worth posting on. meaning the typo is this orange highlight and it should say foot pounds?

 

[PNWGERMAN]

You will have to skip ahead to about 53 minutes into the video to find the part where he torques down the hub. There is a series of operations where you torque the first nut down to a certain value (I think it was in the 70 foot pound range), then loosen the nut back up, and then torque it back down to a lesser value. Then the lock washer goes on. Then the second nut which gets torqued down in the 40 foot pound range, and then the tabs on the lock washer get bent over to secure the nuts.
I just did the nasty dirty job a few weeks ago.

For some resin I cant post a link to the video in your thread, but it works in my build thread... Weird. Anyways fallow the link to my build thread and click on the knuckle rebuild video. Fast forward to about 53 minutes.

Wife's '91 LC80

Been having some ongoing issues with our Atoto A7 radio. First it would intermittently loose all sound. No crackling or pooping that would make me think there was a wiring issue or some sort of wire grounding out. Checked all settings, mute button, tried multiple phones, radio, USB plug, blue...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Rifleman]

Torque the inner bearing to 25 foot pounds and the outer to 43 foot pounds, These number come from Kevin/ "Tools R US", who was a 80 series expert here on i hate Mud, until his untimely death a few years ago,

 

[sjpitts]

Torque the inner bearing to 25 foot pounds and the outer to 43 foot pounds, These number come from Kevin/ "Tools R US", who was a 80 series expert here on i hate Mud, until his untimely death a few years ago,

I have also used the Kevin approach-- but I don't think you meant "inner bearing" and outer bearing-- you mean inner nut and outer nut. Right?

Here is the link to the Kevin/Tools approach Tools Approach

My bearing setup method: Assemble everything out to the first bearing adjustment nut, install the wheel (I use it as a flywheel, making spinning of the hub easier and better "feel"). Spin the wheel, snug the adjuster nut, spin, loosen, spin, repeat several times. This is to "settle" the tapered bearings into the proper alignment, each time the nut is snugged, it should stop at the same place, if it continues to move the bearings are not properly "settled". Once I'm satisfied with that, torque the inner nut to 25 ft/lb and finish the job. I always recheck for zero play after driving ~100mi.

I don't see how consistent results could be achieved with the fish scale method. The difference in rolling drag is huge between new and used seals, etc. The goal is to apply even preload on the bearings and seal drag covers that up, gets in the way of consistency.

Depending on, ambient temp, brake usage, length/speed of the drive, etc, the hub temp is going to vary. Checked mine this morning, after a ~13mi drive, some traffic and highway, left 128F, right 130F at the drive flange.

 

[Rifleman]

I have also used the Kevin approach-- but I don't think you meant "inner bearing" and outer bearing-- you mean inner nut and outer nut. Right?

Here is the link to the Kevin/Tools approach Tools Approach

Yes you are correct, inter and outer nut, sorry, but as I've gotten older, it seems my fingers want to type one thing, while my mind is thinking something else,