Knoob Knuckles (or maybe just rear axles and brakes 4X)

[Irish Reiver]

The e-brake is not auto adjusting so you have to put the rotor back on and manually adjust the shoes by spinning the rotor until the access hole aligns with the knurled adjuster then use a small flat screwdriver to wind the adjuster. Not complicated.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

The e-brake is not auto adjusting so you have to put the rotor back on and manually adjust the shoes by spinning the rotor until the access hole aligns with the knurled adjuster then use a small flat screwdriver to wind the adjuster. Not complicated.

thanks a lot man. i see so you can adjust that sort of star adjuster through a window of some kind in the rotor is that it? then you spin it to make sure it's not binding?
i saw i the FSM there was something about adjusting it in back until the lever arm or whatever touches and then backing off one turn or something?
also do you know what this match marks busines is at the bottom of this page i the FSM? it says "Place the match marks on the disk and rear hub and remove the disk"...?
i guess i have to admit to not realizing i can inspect the e brake without pulling the axle and hub but also i pulled the axle and had some issue pulling the hub and rotor so i was wondering if you have to align match makes for some reason to pull the rotor?
i guess i wasn't following this business.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here's a great link from Kernal breaking down this shim and grease and lube business.
it almost seems like there is the bronze Molykote that comes from Toyota for front shims and then a debate about what to use for rubber piston seals and/or the metal to metal areas.
seems to me like that means you'd use three different products not two like the FSM shoes but what do i know.
he also links to two toyota service videos.

Where to apply grease (and what type) when performing a brake service?

Wanted to run this by the hive mind and put it all in one place as there appears to be at least 47 different methods (according to the internets) on how to grease your brake components (brake pad contact points, slider pins, pad support plates, anti squeal shims, emergency (parking) brake pivot...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[landcruiser3DP]

day 5 (97 dF)
todays a weekday so i started around 4:30 or something and ran out for a quick dinner. after hitting o'reillys for brake cleaner and PB blaster.
i'll have to come back and thank people properly but mudgudgeon turned me on to the notion that the ceramic grease specifically says not to use it on seals.
so before running out i took his word for it and figured it was an opportunity to assemble the rear brakes first to get some mojo and then to go and clean up the two front calipers up (with q tips and the whole deal).
the rear pads go in fine with the whole thing assembled. it's actually kind of enjoyable once you get the hang of it. i called the area that the bleeder valve is just slightly pointing to the top.
and basically for rear calipers you put the clips in with the sort of "flange-ey" bits to the back. so i clipped the one forward facing flange over the caliper en sheen forced the flange-ey bits over the back. there a sidedness to this clips do you have to flip them around sometimes to get it oriented right.
then i put the wear gauge in the bottom of the caliper. then the caliper slips in and i get the part with the wear gauge on it just barely hooded under the top of the clip. then slightly nudge it back into the clip to seat the wear gauge there. then just slightly raised the tip of the clip in the front from behind and your in. then just push it back into the caliper.
someone if it's not going in at the were gauge you need to get that gauge so it's aligned with the ear of the pad. if it's too high or too low you can't clear the inside of the clip.
there not much to it once you get the hang of it.
for fronts which i realize i am doing again i just called the part where the bleeder is the top of the caliper. then i laid it on its side at an angle facing the bulbous portion intent treble as i recall and sloped two pins in after greasing the holes (mor on this later). this was the side that doesn't have the hole for the retainer wire. then i slipped a brake caliper up from the bottom (no shim on this one) and got it around the pins. then same for the returner spring. then do the next pad. then just force the pad up a tiny bit and push the pins through the caliper. then add the wire retaining clip.
i used two different SHIN ETSU greases this time and plan to use one for the e brake line but more on this later.
i'm not sure it was a wise decision but i can't find that shot of white toyota grease the parts manager gave me and apparently they s*** is all out for recall repairs. anyway i got fed up and just tried what i had. i guess i'll research it again before i put it all together.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

more rear caliper and pad pics just because i found it a bit of a learning curve doing these first time.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i drove the races into the rear hubs after cleaning the hubs up. i looked the small one door do the freezer. i rotor to do a fit up and honestly i try to work fast when i am dealing with a frozen part so it doesn't warm up and expand.
anyway forgot to do a test fit which i would try next time.
the small ones feel quite few into the hub and i started driving it with the two old races just kind of hammering with my estwing in between the studs. the second race goes in like the first with the fat face down. might use my brass hammer for this next time. at some point i dropped that idler pulley in there and just tried to align it with an edge and hammer her side in and then move around and keep hammering. then i think you get to smooth where you are flush and you get it stacked with the third item (old race or the idler on top) and whack it til it sounds like it's home.
then check it visually.
i realized while doing this i would recommend getting your finger in end touch thrbeifenofnrhr rece just to sort of "haptically" double check it is in with the thin side up. it would really suck to drive it in get side facing up.
anyway when i turns them over and did the big ones. these were a very tight fit and barely got into the hub initially. i almost thought something was wrong sized.
anywa these were kind of an adventure. i had to hold down the side that i wasn't driving because it wanted to cant upwards when the opposite side was getting driven downward. i actually shed some blood getting my finger caught between two races.
anyway by the time i was half way into it i switched to my leather mallet and this has kind of fuller and more fortified impact and it went in great from then on.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

one of the big races bit me. next time i'd start with that leather mallet with these big races in the rear hubs. it helped to have a deader impact with more surface area here for some reason. maybe it's because it needs to get driven so deep.
also when using split old races you need to decide if you are using the fat or this edge to drive the new race. most of the time you use the fat edge facing firm but there were times like maybe when it is fully enclosed in the hub (?) where using the thin side up was more effective i think.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

old split races go in the land cruiser toolkit. hubs with races are ready for the big bearings and the seal on top.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i moved over to e brake where i just adjusted that serrated adjuster nut do the pads just barely fit into the rotor. pushing upward on the adjuster makes the pads go outward/tighter if that makes sense. rolling it downward loosens the fit.
the FSM says to align match marks with the hub in the e brake section when removing the rotor which i completely missed when disassembling and i can't really figure out what this is talking about.
also there is this kind of "dead ender" on the cable on the right side you don't have on the left. you can swing it out at 90 degrees. i'm not sure if this is how it terminates. i'm not sure how you test the ebrake. also i played around with the cable that comes in at a Y at the rear cables to the e brakes on the rear axle. i don't really see how that assembly works either.
anyway more to learn which is cool.
lastly apparently there's a longer metal dogbone (for lack of a better term for that piece at the top. i can kind of see how this would be a good mod. i'm sort of guessing it would allow you more lever arm when pulling the brake which would let you get a better friction into those pads i am thinking.
here's a separate thread where the inmates here got me sorted on this ebrake issue. turns out my right ebrake ferrule had become disconnected somehow: e brake for Knoobs (busted ferrule?) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/e-brake-for-knoobs-busted-ferrule.1344052/

 

[landcruiser3DP]

there's a 12mm bolt to pull out the ABS sensors from the back. you can see them poking through in front. it comes out quick if you have to do 1/4 turns with a open ended wrench.
on the right side i took a bolt out to release a clip to nudge a brake line out of the way so i could get it out to clean it.
if you had to unclip it i tried to take a pic of that connector.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

next i cracked all the brake line nuts open. my guy st toyota service told me to get some special dockets i forget the name but you need 20mm and i used the angle one rep times so it was worth it. my MO here is to get it on st an angle i can give it a quick two with my leather mallet to loosen.
i can't see the pics well but basically there are four hoses they go to the caliper. so loosen the other end of these that's not at the caliper.
in back there is one axle to frame hose that gets slightly loosened at the frame.
there is a funky casting on the front left axle. loosen there. then loosen up above this which is one of your axle to frame lines.then go passenger side dnd loosen the axle to caliper line. then loosen the frame to checking up by the frame. this line has a second fitting that needs to be loosened at the axle.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

cracking brake line fittings. i gave them a quick rap with my mallet. agsin i used the angled wrench two times.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

here is a couple more from loose going the bleed screws. that thing on the front axle (next to the differential breather) sure looks weird to me.
i also included a shot of the lspv because i cracked the bleeder on that and i'm replacing it as well. it's up next to the front of the left side wheel well.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

loosening the LSPV. not sure if i can remove this rubber booty now. not sure how i replace the lspv.
i wonder if i have to clamp the line at the master cylinder when i replace it or how i keto brake fluid from leaking when replacing this part.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i went down a wormhole on brake caliper grease. i don't go into it but a term like "lithium based glycol grease" makes my head spin especially when i am trying to figure out why they are telling me to use it on grease and also on metal and then whether the manual is saying it goes on the goofy little white arrow or the black one.
long story short is i bought it at the dealer because ourisman said it was hazardous dnd wouldn't ship.
i'm glad i did it with the right stuff and also once you assemble those calipers and clips and pins and springs and metal retainers one time you get a system it's a piece of cake.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i'm waiting on new hub studs. i had one that wouldn't move when i tried to remove it so i had to work it off. then when i went to try to clean it up with a nut the nut got stuck on the stud. so then i had to double nut with two more to try to get the original one out.
at that point the whole stud came loose from the hub and i could only get the double nuts off.
then someone clued me in to the idea i could use a die to fix the hub studs and lugs.
anyway the lesson to that story is to buy all new hub studs or have some on hand. but also to use a die to fix any problems and not a nut.
i /also/ really had to hammer on the makita impact driver to get one lug nut off so i took some time with a die and a good lug nut cleaning that one up. then i found another that was sort of dodgy so i cleaned it up.
the die has two sides one that has a sort of relief in it to get it started. i sort of had to get it started carefully. then at some point i also used a good lug nut.
maybe i'll replace lugs later. i hear they have to be driven out and pressed back in and i don't want to press my luck. also ourisman wants like seven bucks for one.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

cleaning up two of the lug nuts. one is kind of bad the other could just use some cleaning up i think. i marked them so i can easily replace just these two instead of buying all new ones.
it was definitely sort of an art getting the two started on these. you kind of have to obi wan kenobi it. i tried to make sure to unthread it occasionally to break the shaving because i have a tendency to manga or these snd tun it all the way in with no chip breaking.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

day 6 (97 dF) getting a bit tired of having this thing open so decided to try to work around waiting on the hub studs and see what i can get done.
first off someone clued me in to the fact i missed taking out the little seal at the rear spindles so i wasn't sure where the new ones went from the kit i bought.
turns out i didn't pull them out in the first place do i yanked the old ones just using a hooked awl and pushing it down through a slight indent in the spindles.
i whacked in the new one with my leather mallet (seriously that thing is great).

 

[landcruiser3DP]

then i got into that right side brake and got that fertile that slipped out back in. i used a flat head screwdriver to kind of pull the brake lever inward and then used that hooked awl to pull the fertile up and i was able to pop it back in.
when i first asked about brake folks were like "they suck!" but little did i know one was not even working.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

i dropped the large inner bearings into the rear hub and drove the seals (rubber lip faces up and out) in with my leather mallet.