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- #81
and environs. also a bucket of used parts.
Knoob Knuckles (or maybe just rear axles and brakes 4X)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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- #82
i laid everything out so i could put it back without fumbling through stuff.
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- #83
i put the front hubs and the front rotors together. earlier i got mixed up as to which bolts were for the rear calipers because i had removed the long thin screws that hold the pad holder to the caliper that has the pistons. so i forgot that the show like M6 bolts or something actually mount the caliper assembly.
but i also could only find one pair of old front caliper bolts which was also confusing. turns out they were in with the front hub to rotor bolts. so i had 8 instead of 6.
anyway those are same diameter, marked 11 instead of 10 (for hub to rotor bolts) and are about 1/4" longer. i actually only realized this after i saw i had 8, grabbed six yo put in and was checking out the backside of the rotor and hub assembly.
but i also could only find one pair of old front caliper bolts which was also confusing. turns out they were in with the front hub to rotor bolts. so i had 8 instead of 6.
anyway those are same diameter, marked 11 instead of 10 (for hub to rotor bolts) and are about 1/4" longer. i actually only realized this after i saw i had 8, grabbed six yo put in and was checking out the backside of the rotor and hub assembly.
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- #84
next i put the rotor and hub assembly on. i kind of knocked it on with that mallet. also i got the front hub into that tin for ease of grabbing.
you can see the threads that take the adjusting nut and locking nut have grease on them. part of this is from slipping the hub on but i think i may have grease these as well. anyway i took a clean toothbrush and removed all of it off the threads.
you can see the threads that take the adjusting nut and locking nut have grease on them. part of this is from slipping the hub on but i think i may have grease these as well. anyway i took a clean toothbrush and removed all of it off the threads.
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- Thread starter
- #85
next up is that washer with the detent in it. it's not sided so it can go in any way as long as the detent is in the groove in the spindle.
the adjusting bit is sided. i put the flat face facing outward. so slight curved edges face inward. this one is easy to get the 54mm socket to stay on.
i used kevin's method which works great. so tighten loosen spin, tighten loosen spin. repeat. then torque inner adjusting nut to like 25 ft lb. then star locking washer. it also has a detent. then locking but to 45 ft lb.
then find the best tab for inner adjusting nut and best tab for outer locking nut and whack one in and over and the other out and over.
the star nut
the locking
the adjusting bit is sided. i put the flat face facing outward. so slight curved edges face inward. this one is easy to get the 54mm socket to stay on.
i used kevin's method which works great. so tighten loosen spin, tighten loosen spin. repeat. then torque inner adjusting nut to like 25 ft lb. then star locking washer. it also has a detent. then locking but to 45 ft lb.
then find the best tab for inner adjusting nut and best tab for outer locking nut and whack one in and over and the other out and over.
the star nut
the locking
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- #86
next up was getting the rear hubs on. since i need to do hub studs / but wanted to mount the calipers and brake lines - i figured i would get as far as i could with still having access to hub studs.
anyway i packed the hubs with grease per FSM and got them on.
the rear hubs don't bolt to the rear rotor drum. the drum just goes over the hub and then is held in by bring sandwiched between the hub and the wheel. so it's the lug nuts that hold the rear drum rotor on.
the hub itself is held in by that circular locking nut.
also you can see that toothed ring which is how the ABS sensor (the white thing with metal in it) reads the wheel spin. i find it hard to believe that's all that those massive teeth do but there you go.
anyway i packed the hubs with grease per FSM and got them on.
the rear hubs don't bolt to the rear rotor drum. the drum just goes over the hub and then is held in by bring sandwiched between the hub and the wheel. so it's the lug nuts that hold the rear drum rotor on.
the hub itself is held in by that circular locking nut.
also you can see that toothed ring which is how the ABS sensor (the white thing with metal in it) reads the wheel spin. i find it hard to believe that's all that those massive teeth do but there you go.
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- #87
now the drum is on. i adjusted the brake shoes for the e brake inside the brake drum to just skim the inside of the drum already.
the right side went in fine and spins nicely.
but the left side is binding and i'm not sure why. i don't know if getting that fertile into the brake disk tightened up the left side for some reason. or if a bearing is askew. but even if i undone that circular locking nut it's hard to turn.
it was threatening to thunderstorm (like 97 dF with 97 RH) and i didn't have the head for this do i moved onto calipers.
the right side went in fine and spins nicely.
but the left side is binding and i'm not sure why. i don't know if getting that fertile into the brake disk tightened up the left side for some reason. or if a bearing is askew. but even if i undone that circular locking nut it's hard to turn.
it was threatening to thunderstorm (like 97 dF with 97 RH) and i didn't have the head for this do i moved onto calipers.
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- #88
front caliper. it takes like 90 foot pound. that's a lot of muscling without an extender bar. at one point i was worried i was stripping the hole on the attachment at the axle and i didn't want to continue but it turns out the 3/8" socket extension was in the process of giving way.
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- #89
rear caliper is same thing just not so much torque.
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- #90
next up i mounted the brake lines with the new banjo bolts and washers.
the fronts have this little in that makes it easy.
the rears have this sort of compound angle to them. the nut faces forward as it goes in so you kind of have to point the nut through the hole while the hose faces backward. it's a tad weird. the angle is only going to able out. it allows the fitting to "hide" behind the caliper.
i don't see any pics of the fronts but i used a wrench to tighten these up in the back. it's 30 foot lb and there is just no way i was going to get a torque wrench on it let alone a 3/8" socket.
the fronts have this little in that makes it easy.
the rears have this sort of compound angle to them. the nut faces forward as it goes in so you kind of have to point the nut through the hole while the hose faces backward. it's a tad weird. the angle is only going to able out. it allows the fitting to "hide" behind the caliper.
i don't see any pics of the fronts but i used a wrench to tighten these up in the back. it's 30 foot lb and there is just no way i was going to get a torque wrench on it let alone a 3/8" socket.
- Thread starter
- #91
for brake lines i used a wrench to lever out the "shim lock" that holds the fitting in place. once you do that you can just undo the line and swap them out. do the bottom first. then top.
if you cover the master cylinder with the top i think you can use a towel, work fast and clean up later. i tried clamping the old hose - first time i accidentally clamped the front differential breather - but they were so old i'm not sure it even does anything.
anyway i got all four caliper to axle ones done.
i tried to do the front right axle to frame one but the hose had a make thread on one end and by the time i got it all take soared snd the lower end in i realized the make thread wouldn't fit at the top fitting.
so i need to figure out what is going on or if i have the wrong hose.
anyway all calipers are removed finally and i have three axle to frame hoses to put in.
if you cover the master cylinder with the top i think you can use a towel, work fast and clean up later. i tried clamping the old hose - first time i accidentally clamped the front differential breather - but they were so old i'm not sure it even does anything.
anyway i got all four caliper to axle ones done.
i tried to do the front right axle to frame one but the hose had a make thread on one end and by the time i got it all take soared snd the lower end in i realized the make thread wouldn't fit at the top fitting.
so i need to figure out what is going on or if i have the wrong hose.
anyway all calipers are removed finally and i have three axle to frame hoses to put in.
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- #92
not sure what is going on but my two front axle yo frame hoses have one side female and one side male.
i know for a fact the front tight axle to frame fittings are both male.so i don't know that is going on there.
i know for a fact the front tight axle to frame fittings are both male.so i don't know that is going on there.
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- #93
i think the front left axle to caliper might take a mile and female ended hose because it has this funky triangular shape fitting at the axle and it looks like it might take a make threaded end of a hose.
