- Thread starter
- #41
more e brake in the FSM
Knoob Knuckles (or maybe just rear axles and brakes 4X) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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- Thread starter
- #42
on day 1 i was missing my 1/2" 17mm socket for my 1/2" breaker bar so i had to use my 3/8" and it sort of got me off to a slow start.
also those four bolts that hold the brake dust cover slash r brake housing are kind of bitchy and one is set far down a threaded stud.
so i decided today was a good day to get some sockets snd i picked up a depot socket set which for some inexplicable reason i don't have.
i also picked up some wire brushes since they didn't gave any brass ones and mine are all worn down.
also a pick of a truck at lowe's, my gimme box, and the front back organization after ultrasonic.
also those four bolts that hold the brake dust cover slash r brake housing are kind of bitchy and one is set far down a threaded stud.
so i decided today was a good day to get some sockets snd i picked up a depot socket set which for some inexplicable reason i don't have.
i also picked up some wire brushes since they didn't gave any brass ones and mine are all worn down.
also a pick of a truck at lowe's, my gimme box, and the front back organization after ultrasonic.
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- Thread starter
- #43
i also decided to check in on my guy Joey at NAPA about this wheel bearing lube versus grease thing.
he wasn't in but if you go north of town here it gets more hispanic and you actually get some counter help that actually know something.
i ended up picking up some of this permeated to live the calipers with.
it indicated it goes to 1400 dF. the CRC wasn't rated snd the other stuff was lower rated.
from what i can tell some people just buy any of these greased or alternately lubricants and use it to back the shims and to grease the calipers. or they just use anti-seize to back the shims and they use white lithium grease to lubricate the calipers.
i also coated the rubber seal on the pistons with this goop.
he wasn't in but if you go north of town here it gets more hispanic and you actually get some counter help that actually know something.
i ended up picking up some of this permeated to live the calipers with.
it indicated it goes to 1400 dF. the CRC wasn't rated snd the other stuff was lower rated.
from what i can tell some people just buy any of these greased or alternately lubricants and use it to back the shims and to grease the calipers. or they just use anti-seize to back the shims and they use white lithium grease to lubricate the calipers.
i also coated the rubber seal on the pistons with this goop.
- Thread starter
- #44
everything you edited to know about caliper grease and lubricant. i'm going to try to see if kernal is interested in helping me dig into whether on it the other here is objectively better.
also to see what this bronze molycoat stuff is exactly from toyota.
also to see what this bronze molycoat stuff is exactly from toyota.
- Thread starter
- #45
and the data.
- Thread starter
- #46
for assembly i ended up with a method where i leaned it facing downward and got two pins into a brake pad shin sandwich, slid the retainer spring in, then slid another caliper and shim sandwich in, then angled it to go through the caliper holes again.
somehow on the rears i managed to misplace four retainer pins and both springs and i can only find four old pins and one retainer clip so i'll either use the old stuff and some wire as a retaining clip temporarily or i'll turn everything upside didn't looking for the new ones i reckon. or both.
somehow on the rears i managed to misplace four retainer pins and both springs and i can only find four old pins and one retainer clip so i'll either use the old stuff and some wire as a retaining clip temporarily or i'll turn everything upside didn't looking for the new ones i reckon. or both.
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- #47
my milk crate and a to bin organizational strategy. i just kept moving this stuff around. i think i'll include six milk crates - two to sit on and four for parts - and a two muffin tins in my Knoob Knuckle Supplies list.
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- #48
the parts cleaner.
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- #49
The long and the short of 80 series Land Cruiser Rear Axles.
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- #50
i put the new brushes to use on the hubs just before it poured. i do this thing where i do one punch mark for left and two lunch marks for right when i want to identify metal parts. so i took the opportunity to stamp the rear hubs before i got them mixed up.
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- #51
cleaned up the axle splines and the surface for that gasket a tiny bit more.
- Thread starter
- #52
drive the races out of the rear hubs. the one that is sort of set deep inside stays tight all the way to the opening so i had to turn it on its side and give it one small whack to knock it out.
this klein drift i picked up at a pawn shop ages ago and that eating makes this by far the most satisfying part of the job.
old races look pretty darn good to me.
this klein drift i picked up at a pawn shop ages ago and that eating makes this by far the most satisfying part of the job.
old races look pretty darn good to me.
- Thread starter
- #53
i had some more fun with the rear caliper assemblies. i kind of didn't really understand what those big clips do but i guess they are retaining clips.
then i got confused as to what direction this B shaped clip faced. eventually wider up to the fact its a wear indicator and the tiny protruding vertical part at the bottom of the B faces the pad material. also it goes on under the retaining clips so i still need to assemble. those.
then i got confused as to what direction this B shaped clip faced. eventually wider up to the fact its a wear indicator and the tiny protruding vertical part at the bottom of the B faces the pad material. also it goes on under the retaining clips so i still need to assemble. those.
- Thread starter
- #54
i ran the two rear hubs inside to clean them up and was fully intending on saving that bunged up hub stud with a little surgery.
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- Thread starter
- #55
unfortunately it eventually worked itself out of the hub while i was trying to use a good nut as a tap, then i tried to get that off and eventually had to triple nut it which i've never had to do. then i got looking at it and finally decided i had to order hub studs.
someone gave me part numbers for tear and wheel studs since one of rose was banged up and someone suggested replacing all of those actually.
it's always nice when someone hooks you up with a part number with no drama.
Hub stud is 90116-08235
Wheel stud is 90942-02052
in retrospect i should have tapped it with a die. actually i suppose in a pinch i could do this if i ever got the bit off it and put some red loctite in the hub but may as well fix it right since its do bunged up anyway.
someone gave me part numbers for tear and wheel studs since one of rose was banged up and someone suggested replacing all of those actually.
it's always nice when someone hooks you up with a part number with no drama.
Hub stud is 90116-08235
Wheel stud is 90942-02052
in retrospect i should have tapped it with a die. actually i suppose in a pinch i could do this if i ever got the bit off it and put some red loctite in the hub but may as well fix it right since its do bunged up anyway.
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- #56
i guess i will toss that one in the City of Spent Land Cruiser Parts and carry the good ones as emergency spares.
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- #57
a little dental cleaning. not too shabby even if i do have to say so myself.
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- #58
and inside the hubs. all ready to drive in the races next time i get the time to work on it.
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- #59
taking a run at rear brakes tomorrow.
i guess you need to take the holder off from the caliper and slip the pads and the clips into the caliper. and the shim looks like it faces out from the truck. so it goes hub side basically and gets no grease.
i can't tell if the little tabs on the holder should clip in behind the caliper tho.
i guess you need to take the holder off from the caliper and slip the pads and the clips into the caliper. and the shim looks like it faces out from the truck. so it goes hub side basically and gets no grease.
i can't tell if the little tabs on the holder should clip in behind the caliper tho.
- Thread starter
- #60
also going to take a run at the e brakes.
not sure if i need to fully disassemble them of if i can grease them and shift them if pad thickness is good (it is).
also i can't tell from the FSM how it's supposed to be adjusted. there's a little knurled adjuster on the front and some kind of stopper ut deal on the back but i couldn't tell how it gets adjusted.
not sure if i need to fully disassemble them of if i can grease them and shift them if pad thickness is good (it is).
also i can't tell from the FSM how it's supposed to be adjusted. there's a little knurled adjuster on the front and some kind of stopper ut deal on the back but i couldn't tell how it gets adjusted.
