Kickdown cable replacement?

[smorkington]

Here is the video I used to do this job. You can get the cable out without removing valve body btw

 

[jostinakex]

Here is the video I used to do this job. You can get the cable out without removing valve body btw

Thank you!! Will hopefully be doing this this week now that it’s warmed up over here

 

[bug616]

An old thread, but I have recently done this task a few times and added a quick summary of the instructions on this product page, which is also copied here for others' use.

Cable Assy, Throttle Valve / Kickdown - A442F - 35520-60060

Kickdown / Throttle Valve Cable for Land Cruiser 70 & 80 Series<br /> 35520-60060<br /> Toyota OEM - Japan<br />

www.shopraddcruisers.ca

The basic procedure is as follows - double check this with the FSM if you are in doubt:
1. Remove the transmission fluid dipstick.
2. Remove the transmission protection (aka skid) plate. Drain the fluid from the transmission pan (24mm) and remove the bolts holding the pan (10mm).
3. Break the seal on the oil pan with a pan remover tool - this can be challenging - and lower it a few cm on an angle - more ATF will drain out of the valve body once air gets in (hint: don't be in a rush to take the pan away or you may end up bathing in ATF).
4. Drain the pan again to get the rest of the fluid out.
5. Clean the gasket surfaces and dry the metal surfaces with a dry solvent such as brake cleaner.
6. Remove the kickdown cable from the injection pump throttle linkage (14mm)
7. DO NOT REMOVE THE VALVE BODY - yes, it says to do this in the FSM, but it's not needed.
8. On the right front part of the underside you can see the cable entering the transmission. Use some tool to rotate the cam that the kickdown cable attaches to so you can get at the bead end and remove it from the cam.
9. Use a side cutters and cut the cable end off.
10. Use a dull tool like a long 1/4" socket extension to push (or gently hammer) the plastic cable end up and out of the transmission. Don't damage the transmission, only push against the plastic end of the cable housing that protrudes into the transmission. Some plastic bits may break off the cable end - don't leave these in the transmission.
11. Cut the plastic end off the cable so you're only left with the housing tube.
12. The cable is secured to the top of the transmission by a bolted down clamp.... there's no easy way to get this off and thread the new cable through it when the transmission is still in the vehicle.
13. Go up to the engine bay and feed the new cable down to the transmission approximating the route the original cable followed.
14. Grab the old cable housing with some strong pliers or vice grips and start yanking it up and out. It's going to take some force to do as the cable clamp does not want to let go. A few strong jerks will often get it out. You can also leave it in place... just tie it out of the way.
15. Go back down the transmission and carefully (no dirt in the transmission!) feed the cable and housing through the hole the old cable came out of. The o-ring that seals the cable to the housing should be lightly oiled with ATF to help it go into place before pushing the cable end into the transmission. The cable end should clip into place and not come back out when tugged gently.
16. Rotate the cam around to feed the bead end of the cable into its hole, and route the cable over top of the cam.
17. Back up to the engine bay again, and clip the cable housing into the metal cable clip/holder that's just just above the starter.
18. Next, attach the cable to the cable holder at the throttle linkage.
19. Gently pull the cable through and check that it moves in and out smoothly under the spring tension of the cable cam in the transmission. Check that the cable is properly following the cam in the transmission.
20. Apply a thin bead of sealant around the cleaned oil pan and replace the oil pan. Don't over tighten the small bolts. Put the skid plate back. Check that the drain plug is tight.
21. Gently pull the the cable until you feel no slack - this is where the supplied bead gets crimped into place - about 2mm forward of the orange rubber boot. Gently crimp the bead into place.
22. Fill the transmission with high quality ATF (I strongly advise synthetic fluid). It will take around 6.5 to 7.5 Litres. Don't over-fill and don't under-fill. The engine needs to be running with the trans in Park to get a good reading of the oil level.
23. Double check all of your work, and make sure there are no leaks. Adjust the cable as per the FSM.

The kickdown cable should have no slack in it, and it should start moving as the throttle on the injection pump moves.

A tighter cable will cause firm shifts that are slightly late (holds on to the gears a little longer before shifting, revs a bit more before the next shift) and a slack cable causes earlier and softer shifts. There's a happy medium - soft shifts cause increased wear on the clutches in the transmission, but firm shifts can be annoying. If in doubt, get help from someone with some real experience and expertise, not just internet/armchair expertise.

If you've recently done this job and you notice that this procedure needs some updating, please send along your suggestions. If your suggestions are used, you'll be given credit.


Cheers,
John

Brilliant instructions. Just fitted new kickdown cable to 94 1HDT with A442F. Not a difficult job at all. All done with valve body and prop shaft left in place. I have a 1” body lift which meant the clamp bolt could also be reached to both undo and refit with the new cable.

 

[petegangies]

mine must be very stretched, as I've tightened it even more and it's still got some slack. I've also noticed that it's now a bit rougher when changing gears, I think between 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd. It'll kick when changing up or down gear, and seems to be isolated specifically to those gears. I'm not sure whether to adjust further, or loosen it off again. I will get the cable replaced when my automatic transmission is due for servicing, but the fluid in it is only 2000km old, so wasn't planning on doing it anytime soon, unless of course this is going to cause premature wear, and if so, I'll get it sorted sooner rather than later.

It's never had a full proper flush, but dad religiously dumped out what he could from the drain plug and refilled it with fresh fluid often.. so it always had fresh fluid circulating with old. Would appreciate your thoughts... given the amount of fluid these take, a service with pan drop and cable replacement is going to be very expensive here.

 

[bug616]

mine must be very stretched, as I've tightened it even more and it's still got some slack. I've also noticed that it's now a bit rougher when changing gears, I think between 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd. It'll kick when changing up or down gear, and seems to be isolated specifically to those gears. I'm not sure whether to adjust further, or loosen it off again. I will get the cable replaced when my automatic transmission is due for servicing, but the fluid in it is only 2000km old, so wasn't planning on doing it anytime soon, unless of course this is going to cause premature wear, and if so, I'll get it sorted sooner rather than later.

It's never had a full proper flush, but dad religiously dumped out what he could from the drain plug and refilled it with fresh fluid often.. so it always had fresh fluid circulating with old. Would appreciate your thoughts... given the amount of fluid these take, a service with pan drop and cable replacement is going to be very expensive here.

Insufficient line pressure due to the cable being too slack will result in premature wear of the clutches and ultimately gearbox failure. For the price of a new cable and the relative ease of fitting one I would strongly recommend just do it now.

 

[petegangies]

Insufficient line pressure due to the cable being too slack will result in premature wear of the clutches and ultimately gearbox failure. For the price of a new cable and the relative ease of fitting one I would strongly recommend just do it now.

was already on the phone to my transmission guy yesterday, he's calling me back today to book it in..

 

[Radd Cruisers]

mine must be very stretched, as I've tightened it even more and it's still got some slack. I've also noticed that it's now a bit rougher when changing gears, I think between 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd. It'll kick when changing up or down gear, and seems to be isolated specifically to those gears. I'm not sure whether to adjust further, or loosen it off again. I will get the cable replaced when my automatic transmission is due for servicing, but the fluid in it is only 2000km old, so wasn't planning on doing it anytime soon, unless of course this is going to cause premature wear, and if so, I'll get it sorted sooner rather than later.

It's never had a full proper flush, but dad religiously dumped out what he could from the drain plug and refilled it with fresh fluid often.. so it always had fresh fluid circulating with old. Would appreciate your thoughts... given the amount of fluid these take, a service with pan drop and cable replacement is going to be very expensive here.

Be careful with the stretch.

I have seen cables that were fraying and separating inside the cable housing- ie: they will grow as long as you want until you pull the entire cable out of the housing and no amount of adjustment will take up that kind of slack.

The cables are not expensive compared to a transmission, so it's far better to replace the cable sooner rather than later.


~John

 

[petegangies]

Be careful with the stretch.

I have seen cables that were fraying and separating inside the cable housing- ie: they will grow as long as you want until you pull the entire cable out of the housing and no amount of adjustment will take up that kind of slack.

The cables are not expensive compared to a transmission, so it's far better to replace the cable sooner rather than later.


~John

I'm surprised mine is so stretched after only 150,000kms, a bit ordinary!

 

[jostinakex]

Brilliant instructions. Just fitted new kickdown cable to 94 1HDT with A442F. Not a difficult job at all. All done with valve body and prop shaft left in place. I have a 1” body lift which meant the clamp bolt could also be reached to both undo and refit with the new cable.

Where’d you get your cable if you don’t mind me asking? Not sure where a good source for these are. Just need to buy the part now that I’ve it ripped out

 

[bug616]

Where’d you get your cable if you don’t mind me asking? Not sure where a good source for these are. Just need to buy the part now that I’ve it ripped out

I ordered via Amayama. You could also try Partsouq

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Where’d you get your cable if you don’t mind me asking? Not sure where a good source for these are. Just need to buy the part now that I’ve it ripped out

I have these for sale on my eCom site. www.shopraddcruisers.ca
I don't make up my own part numbers like many other places do, so it's very straightforward for most items to use the search box to find parts.

~John

 

[Kernal]

@Radd Cruisers : which 80 Series Throttle ("Kick down") cable(s) do you have? There's a difference in length and design
between the earlier and later models.

AFAIK these numbers should be correct for the FZJ80:
35520-60111 (92-95)
3552060140 (1/95-1/98)

 

[Radd Cruisers]

@Radd Cruisers : which 80 Series Throttle ("Kick down") cable(s) do you have? There's a difference in length and design
between the earlier and later models.

AFAIK these numbers should be correct for the FZJ80:
35520-60111 (92-95)
3552060140 (1/95-1/98)

I am currently only stocking the diesel 70 & 80 series cables, however I would be happy to also stock the cables for the FZJ80s.

I will add those to my eCom site and bring inventory in asap.

35520-60140 = no longer in production

~John