Key cylinder stuck in Acc position and key won't go in fully (1 Viewer)

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Nov 13, 2006
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Sunnyvale, CA
Hi all,

I am teaching my daughter driving. Somehow she managed to pull the key out of the LX while it was still in the Acc position (without turning it all the way to lock). Now the key won't go back in fully so I cannot turn it at all. It goes in almost all the way in except maybe the last eights of an inch. I have a feeling that whatever mechanism prevents the key from coming out normally gave way or broke and that is now preventing the key from being fully inserted.

This is a 2003 LX with 200k miles. Never had an issue with the key or the lock cylinder before now. I did a search on the forums and found a lot if info on the broken rod / free spinning key as well as keys getting jammed in there. I saw the videos of taking out the barrel and the cam/rod mechanism to replace them. However before I go diving in there wanted to know if there was some simple trick to get the key fully inserted (assuming the mechanism is not broken - but just blocking the key somehow).

Any suggestions on repair also welcome!

Also learnt that we cannot take anything for granted - I should have taught her clearly that the key can only be pulled out in the lock position!
 
You might try to gently rotate the slot for the key back to the 'off' position with the tip of a flat blade screwdriver partially inserted. If you can get it back in the 'off' position, you may have a chance at being able to insert the key fully and possibly determine whether the rod is broken. If the rod is broken, the key will likely move through the various positions without activating them or possibly activating them out of normal sequence. I just went through the broken ignition rod experience less than two weeks ago. The key has to be inserted to be able to push in the pin that allows the cylinder to be pulled out, so it may be difficult to even disassemble to get to the rod if you cannot get the key fully inserted. Young drivers are sometimes tough on the delicate plastic key fobs, and not so robust ignition rods in the LC/LX. After my oldest daughter shattered a fob housing on her first time driving, I tried to emphasize to my kids and wife to make sure the steering lock is not in a bind before applying anything more than a very gentle twist to the key in our vehicles. It is worth keeping a spare key fob housing with key already cut and an a spare ignition rod. Keep us updated on what you figure out and best of luck.
 
You might try to gently rotate the slot for the key back to the 'off' position with the tip of a flat blade screwdriver partially inserted. If you can get it back in the 'off' position, you may have a chance at being able to insert the key fully and possibly determine whether the rod is broken. If the rod is broken, the key will likely move through the various positions without activating them or possibly activating them out of normal sequence. I just went through the broken ignition rod experience less than two weeks ago. The key has to be inserted to be able to push in the pin that allows the cylinder to be pulled out, so it may be difficult to even disassemble to get to the rod if you cannot get the key fully inserted. Young drivers are sometimes tough on the delicate plastic key fobs, and not so robust ignition rods in the LC/LX. After my oldest daughter shattered a fob housing on her first time driving, I tried to emphasize to my kids and wife to make sure the steering lock is not in a bind before applying anything more than a very gentle twist to the key in our vehicles. It is worth keeping a spare key fob housing with key already cut and an a spare ignition rod. Keep us updated on what you figure out and best of luck.
Thanks. Will try what you suggest today and report back...
 
Tried a lot of things today with the key and various flat head screwdrivers and small picks. But could not get the keys inserted fully not get the cylinder to move in any direction. Still stuck in the Acc position. It does depress a little bit - like what you have to do before putting it into the lock position but does not move in either CW or CCW directions. I'm going to start removing panels etc and try and dissemble it. I realize it might not be able to get the cylinder out of the barrel if the key is not inserted. So any ideas on what all might I have to remove /replace?
 
This happened to me just once. IIRC, I just really jammed the key back in as-is and applied a scary amount of pushing and twisting force until it gave way. Nothing broke. YMMV.

I have a foggy memory of trying it with the tranny in N, and that *may* have been part of the solution. Getting old sucks.
 
Not sure if this is the same problem. Try at your own risk.

 
Not sure if this is the same problem. Try at your own risk.

Thanks for this. I tried it but did not help me. My problem is that the key is not getting fully inserted - the last 1/8" is still staying out. So I cannot turn it any way. I finally called a locksmith. He struggled with it for a couple of hours. Finally said the old ignition will need to be drilled out and replaced with a new ignition. Waiting for the parts. I will end up with two sets of keys. The original for opening the door and the tailgate and the new ones for the ignition and the remote. It seems that whatever it is that prevents the key from being pulled out when it is not in lock has fallen in place and there is no way to push it back so the key can be fully seated.
 
This may sound silly but have you tried wiggling or holding the steering wheel to one side or the other while turning? When I first got my LX I grabbed the wheel to enter and this caused a sort of security lockup of the ignition and it wouldn't turn, called the local dealer and he suggested the wheel strategy and it worked. Different cause but worth a shot.
 
Will the key go in properly if you put the tranny in N via the lockout button?
 
With in ACC, you "may" be able to remove tumbler.
IG switch 00 LX (2).JPG
 

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