Builds Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread

[katit]

This thing takes some time... I got it leveled yesterday (had to re-index left bar back by 2 tooth) and pressures is pretty much good now. However, it's sitting about 1/4 to low upfront, need to dial sensors on control arms. Dealer finally got sway bar parts.

Next up: Get heights correct with pressures, get all suspension torqued down. Then drive around and come back double-triple check heights and pressures to make it as accurate as possible. Ordered 2 more AHC fluid bottles. Bled more, almost no air but I will get it through to make sure it's as good as possible. Should be ready for alignment this weekend. In time because my other car is getting sold tomorrow..

 

[pegdrag]

Great thread, I've read it and taken notes several times.

 

[Str8Razor]

Great thread, I've read it and taken notes several times.

This…. Lots of helpful tips, about to do front end ans brake work on my 2003 LX470…
Thanks @katit

 

[katit]

Ok. So close and yet some issues...

Got heights and pressure all dialed in to where I like them - all in a middle of specs. Next step - get eyeball "alignment". There was visual toe out (about 2 inch when measured on tires) and sitting like \ /
Also, was little low. Some sensors adjustments, upper arm adjustments and all look good.

Next is to get control arms tightened at proper height (to avoid bushing twist). Well, that didn't go well. I don't know the proper sequence, but bolt (with red arrow) on lower arm need to be held by cap with second wrench from spinning. And you cannot do it with torsion arm in place. Bummer. I did tighten up what I can and had to put it back on lift and loosen torsion arms once again so I can properly torque that bolt.

While doing it - I got real "intimate" with torsion bars because it's probably 4th time I had to loosen them between indexing, removing and removing again for this stupid bolt. This time I put marks on them and counted turns to loosen so I don't have to readjust. Interesting observation - left arm is exactly 20 turns to remove pressure where right ram is only 10.

Next test drive. Drives great! And surprisingly tracks straight with straight wheel before any alignment!

Now the BAD part. I have leak from power steering pump I rebuilt. I don't know yet where it's coming from exactly but not hoses. Might be that lower pressure hose connector with o-ring. Or maybe even seal which is worse. Anyways. Need to remove to inspect. At least air intake and belt. After shutting down truck I have about 2 inch puddle right under truck.

I already sold my second car, so now it's my only car which I don't drive. I have motorcycle, but it supposed to be for "fun" only. Now I really experience what it is like to have motorcycle as the only transportation

 

[katit]

Another question to front hub "gurus". I drove truck for about 10 miles and front hubs got up to ~45 degree C. Is there common "normal" or it's expected temperature? Brake rotors about 90C

No difference in L/R sides, I think it's OK but just in case. I did put bearings on a "tight" side at 13-14 or so.

 

[katit]

PS pump is out. Didn't leak from seal. Didn't leak from fittings. My verdict: It's middle gasket. It's metal gasket with rubber lip. And my guess I messed it up.
Nu during install, but using paint - solvent got into joint and messed up rubber. I though about it for a second when painted but this is the only explanation I have.

Will be installing Autozone unit with lifetime warranty (their best non-reman unit)

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Excellent job on the suspension rebuild. Thanks for sharing your experience with rebuilding the vane pump, I think buying a reman is the way to go.

I also had to re-index the TB this weekend, I was surprised by the left one needing more turns than rthe right too!

I think having 100 as your only vehicle is a bit brave! This is my second 100 and I don't think these 20 year old trucks are up to the task of being the only car in the stable.
Reliability issues aside, the fuel and maintenance costs make them suboptimal for daily duties.
I have learned to have a reliable Japanese car for daily grind and have a 100 as a hobby vehicle.

 

[katit]

Reliability issues aside, the fuel and maintenance costs make them suboptimal for daily duties.
I have learned to have a reliable Japanese car for daily grind and have a 100 as a hobby vehicle.

I thought this is what 100 is

Honestly - I have no doubts in 100 as far as reliability goes. All the items already been taken care of. I carry couple spare coils but that's it. Everything I do to this car is not repairs. I took it to long drives all the time with no issues or concerns.

It's not easy to have it as only one vehicle if things like suspension need to be done, that's true. But all remaining stuff I might do is easy/quick and can be taken care of in normal use course.

I live 6 miles from office and gas is cheap here in MO. Fuel economy is not a problem either.

 

[katit]

New pump in. I did clean everything as best as I can. And yet - some drips after running engine Bummer. Maybe there was some fluid trapped in frame members below. I got literally 10 drips. Ran truck more and seem to be not dripping anymore but I am not 100% yet. More cleaning and driving to prove it's not leaking.

50/50. If it does leak - the only way it does it - from O-ring on pic. New pump came without coupler. But if it does leak - that means my pump/rebuild was just fine and I bought extra pump

 

[katit]

Coming back together. Tacking bunch of small items as I go.

AHC: 2 more cans and I have clean and clear fluid coming out. Height, pressure, ride - all checks out!
Power Steering pump - no more leaks. So it was my rebuild issue.

Mid woofer which interfered with buttons panel on driver door slightly repositioned

 

[katit]

Replaced bushing in steering wheel control motor. Don't forget metal clip!

 

[katit]

Got rid of this luxury rattle. I had it during cold startups and sometimes under certain acceleration conditions. Heat shield rusted around bolt. Put couple tacks and now it sounds mean and no rattle!!!

 

[katit]

Another thing which I decided to knock out. I was hoping on installing bigger sub but amount of fabrication just kept this project on backburner.. So, ordered Dayton sub which will fit (not exactly) an proceeded.
1. Sub had to be trimmed to make it not round. Some angle grinder work and it mounts to the stock holes.
2. Sub box bottom needed some dremeling as well to make sub sit flush and not touch
3. New wire "in" plate

I am happy to report it worked well and it sounds just fine with my 3 way componets

 

[katit]

Some news. Good and bad.

Good. Truck aligned, passed inspections, all is great. Drives nice.

Some issues:

- Need to adjust front height again (via sensors). I guess when they aligned they had to move upper arms and it was just enough to make truck sit about 20 1/4 high compare to target 19 3/4. This should not be a big deal to adjust.

- BAD!! Brand new OE axle leaks. Not sure what it is yet, but looks like factory bad part. Probably damaged boot during clamping. Did anybody have this issue? What is my options now? OE reboot kit?

I thought I am done with everything

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Some news. Good and bad.

Good. Truck aligned, passed inspections, all is great. Drives nice.

Some issues:

- Need to adjust front height again (via sensors). I guess when they aligned they had to move upper arms and it was just enough to make truck sit about 20 1/4 high compare to target 19 3/4. This should not be a big deal to adjust.

- BAD!! Brand new OE axle leaks. Not sure what it is yet, but looks like factory bad part. Probably damaged boot during clamping. Did anybody have this issue? What is my options now? OE reboot kit?

I thought I am done with everything

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Sucks about the cv. My experience with the Toyota parts have been pretty horrible unfortunately. You can source some stronger boots from an outfit called CVJ in Colorado. Or can get just the boots from Mr. T and reboot them

 

[katit]

Sucks about the cv. My experience with the Toyota parts have been pretty horrible unfortunately. You can source some stronger boots from an outfit called CVJ in Colorado. Or can get just the boots from Mr. T and reboot them

Last I expected defective oe parts. Probably going to reboot with OE. Wondering what is the chance it’s a bad clamp? Probably zero chance with so much leaking. Got to be damaged boot

 

[daohaus]

Another thing which I decided to knock out. I was hoping on installing bigger sub but amount of fabrication just kept this project on backburner.. So, ordered Dayton sub which will fit (not exactly) an proceeded.
1. Sub had to be trimmed to make it not round. Some angle grinder work and it mounts to the stock holes.
2. Sub box bottom needed some dremeling as well to make sub sit flush and not touch
3. New wire "in" plate

I am happy to report it worked well and it sounds just fine with my 3 way componets

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So how's it sound? More bass fill the cabin?

 

[katit]

So how's it sound? More bass fill the cabin?

Yes, it’s good description. Keep in mind I don’t have stock amp. Change in sound very minimal, just more “fill” if it makes sense

 

[daohaus]

Yes, it’s good description. Keep in mind I don’t have stock amp. Change in sound very minimal, just more “fill” if it makes sense

That's what I wanted to hear. The factory "sub" is seriously inadequate and you definitely don't fill it nor does it fill that cabin. I have an 04 so if I wanted to change things out would be more

 

[katit]

That's what I wanted to hear. The factory "sub" is seriously inadequate and you definitely don't fill it nor does it fill that cabin. I have an 04 so if I wanted to change things out would be more

Hm. I didn’t reference stock sub. I’ve been driving with only components in front doors for a while. Adding this sub helped. But I can’t tell you how different it’s from stock

currently it is definitely better than ML I had