Jzilla's FJ60 to BJ60 conversion

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Used a flapper wheel to smooth out the casting ridges. You can see that the first two ports have been cleaned up a bit already, the last two have not been touched.
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Manifold was ceramic coated 50,000 kms ago in BC.
Anyhow I took it to a very reputable shop in Edmonton and was told that it probably was not done properly. The owner explained all the steps required to do it right (he does all the ceramic coating personally). He said they have never had any come back looking like that. He said if it ever happened I could bring it back and they would redo it. He assured me though not too worry as they do a lot of high powered diesels and race cars and have had no issues. I also went with a black finish that is supposed to hold up to higher temperatures. Pictures of that to come later...
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jzilla said:
Decided that I may as well paint the rear wheelwells as I had already done the front...pressure washed them with steam cleaner and then wire brushed them. Some water got into the truck after washing them, not really surprised as the sealer is from 1984, so I scraped it all out and re-seamsealed with some proform seam sealer that I had laying around.
One picture has the old sealer, the other picture has it scraped out...
View attachment 555761View attachment 555762
Click to expand...
I learned from a long time land cruiser mechanic, the seams where the wheel wells join the quarter panel and the wheel wells are NOT totally sealed. This is why this area of the body is famous for corrosion. Seam opening is the width of a finger nail.
 
BTW is there a engine paint that can take the test of time and hold up its shine under the heat and hydrocarbons ?
 
FJ62 clip should be attached exactly the same as the FJ60 clip as far as I know.

I redid all the seams in the rear wheel well area. Also made sure there was a drain hole in the rear quarter panels for water to run out of. There is an area that water can run out of but it is usually plugged with factory seam sealer. I learned about that in the 60 series section somewhere.

Yes those are the cam bearing shells.
36mm socket and some 1/2 inch extensions and a hammer were used to remove and install.

The Plastikote engine paint seems to hold up well. I used the engine primer, engine paint and engine clear coat on basically everything. Wait until you see what I did with the cylinder head with that paint... So far it has held up to the heat :).
Everything else on the engine was done with Plastikote, all the aluminum covers and the engine block.
 
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How long did it take to get the head out of the truck and on the bench? I'm pretty sure the head is cracked on my BJ60. Its starts almost instantly, but bumps around and puffs white for the first 30 seconds. It uses about a litre of coolant every 5000km and has been doing so since the mid 1990's so I've never worries about it.

It also has the original injectors and glow plugs. Hmm..
 
Not long at all, leave the manifolds on so you have handles for removal. The time consuming part is loosening the headbolts in stages and in sequence. I did not time myself but maybe 2 hours? Let the coolant drain before you start and that saves some time.
Hey if you plan to do it let me know I would love to come by. Also contact me about a new cylinder head and any parts you need.
You got my number still?

Bumping and puffing white on startup is pretty normal. Other than a coolant leak it could be the head gasket or head. Old head gaskets were fiber and now they are MLS.
 
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kim said:
They are not identical. The FJ62 clip has different headlight mounting brackets.
Click to expand...

Oh well yes of course, two square headlights vs one round :)
I thought he meant does the FJ62 clip mount to the inner fenders differently or something like that as the headlight difference is obvious to most of us...

Kim thanks for your reply, I don't mean to come across as rude or anything.
 
No worries. Yes, other than the obvious differences in light mounts, they are identical. :)
 
I've pulled 2 heads & they were both cracked when I went for a valve grind. Pre cups were all cracked too. 1 was off a former DD that ran great & 1 was from a junk yard rescue.
 
No cracks in the head were visible, had it magnafluxed and it tested fine. This head is the most recent one that Toyota made for the 3B so maybe that made a difference... or it is my driving style...who knows :meh:.

Will update with more details and photos soon...I was really hoping by now someone would have commented on a certain post I put up that makes no sense at all. I threw it in there for fun to see if someone would catch it, sadly nothing :(

Either no one is really reading this thread that carefully or no one cares :doh:

Or maybe someone saw it and was like what is wrong with this guy? :D
 
Haha! Thanks for noticing :)
Thought that someone might be like wait a minute... is that a 3B? :confused:

Those are some pictures from a 4 cylinder Kubota engine at work, thought it would be interesting for people to see some pictures of what happens when valves seize. Always fun to look at engine damage when it is not your own...
 
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