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Second, what with the hate Jon? Cruiser envy perhaps?
Daisy

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Over an 80? Ya, envy. That's it. To quote Ali ...

I don't think we'll get Jon into a FZJ80 after what he saw today. :frown:

:beer:
 
Come on folks, can't we just all get along?
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It doesn't matter if it is a 40, 60, 80, 100, white, green, red, it still is a CRUISER! OK group hug
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just no groping alright.
 
welcome! i have a disk front axle from my '77 FJ40. it's a spring over set up though. you could switch it back, though it's a bit of a hassle.

Thanks for the offer, but after doing some reading I believe I will go with Pappy's recommendation:
"Disk Brakes: Mini-truck/FJ60 on the front with FJ60 vented rotors and mini-truck V6 calipers. For the rear I would get one of the Monte Carlo/GM rotor kits."
Now I need to read the FAQ to figure out what I need and how to do it. I am leaning toward the FJ60 axle replacement; as I have a tear in my front axle.

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Nice to know those much-hated 80s will last past 150,000 miles. Does it have a tilt steering wheel?

Pretty sure it doesn't but I don't remember for sure. It's a '91 FJ80 in base-model trim.


WOW. That's a lot of head gaskets.

I betcha it's the original.

The head has never been off of the mighty 3FE. In all those miles the radiator, alternator, thermostat, and an oil pan gasket have been replaced. Oh, and the air injection rail melted through the #1 injector wires after the plastic hold-off petrified and crumbled. It still ran on 5 cylinders until I fixed it. I'd get in that truck today and drive it across the country with no worries.
 
I am leaning toward the FJ60 axle replacement; as I have a tear in my front axle.

That's not a tear. That's sheet metal bracket welded to the top of the axle housing to locate the U-bolts for the spring pack. Because of the offset differential, the u-bolts have to be different sizes on that side. To keep the one closer to the diff. in position, that sheet metal bracket keeps it from sliding down the slope and keeps the distance between the two u-bolts correct. It's supposed to be there and it's supposed to look that way.

The axle from a 60-series is a few inches wider than a 40 series. I think what was intended was that you can use the disk brake parts from a 60-series front axle to convert an older 40-series front axle to disk brakes.
 
That's not a tear. That's sheet metal bracket welded to the top of the axle housing to locate the U-bolts for the spring pack. Because of the offset differential, the u-bolts have to be different sizes on that side. To keep the one closer to the diff. in position, that sheet metal bracket keeps it from sliding down the slope and keeps the distance between the two u-bolts correct. It's supposed to be there and it's supposed to look that way.

I was to quick to assume the "tear" was the cause of a bent leaf spring as shown here: http://www.source3.com/photos/main.php?g2_itemId=341

The axle from a 60-series is a few inches wider than a 40 series. I think what was intended was that you can use the disk brake parts from a 60-series front axle to convert an older 40-series front axle to disk brakes.

That would be great if I can just swap out the disk parts, I was just reading a post about having to move the hanger to accommodate the wider FJ60 axles and was becoming nervous. If I just swap out the parts, don't I still have an issue with the weaker 1972 axle? Maybe I should take BionicCruiser up on his offer. I am so confused which way to go:

  1. FJ60 axle
  2. BionicCruisers 1976 axle which already has everything.
Perhaps option 2 is best. What can I say, I am a newb with so many options to consider. At least with option 2 I would be able to put money saved toward other mods!

Thanks for identifying that it is not a tear!
 
I am so confused which way to go:

I would suggest listening to folks like 2manycruisers, pappy and Bionic. They have a lot of 40-series experience and knowledge. Also, start reading a bunch in the 40-series tech section. Don't commit to any particular solution too soon until you've learned all about them.
 
I was to quick to assume the "tear" was the cause of a bent leaf spring as shown here: Bent Front Leaf Spring - Right Side


That is a serious bend! I would guess that it was probably caused by the tire or axle on that side of the truck impacting something hard at a decent rate of speed (curb, big rock, big hole), shoving that end of the axle backward and bending the springs at that weak point.

I imagine your truck pulls to the right pretty bad and requires a lot of toe adjustment just to get to almost go straight.
 
If I just swap out the parts, don't I still have an issue with the weaker 1972 axle? Maybe I should take BionicCruiser up on his offer.

I don't think there is much, of any, difference in the years. I know the very early were different some way, but I think 1969 up are mostly the same (except for disk/drum, and birfields).
 
the inner axles are the same strength. The birfields in Shawn's axle are stronger than your '72 drum birfs. The birfs in the fj-60 axle (or mini-truck) are stronger yet. You can use the knuckles out on either shawn's or the fj-60. If you use the fj-60 axle, you have to pop the long side (IIRC) birf off and swap to your inner shaft--all the length difference is on one side or the other, so you can use one stock 60 axle shaft complete, the other you have to swap. you don't want to put the complete fj-60 axle underneath, it is too much work.

The bent leaf isn't all too uncommon since the fixed end is at the rear of the spring. If the shackle was in the rear, it would be much less likely. I bent a couple of those on my old spring-over 60.
 
the inner axles are the same strength. The birfields in Shawn's axle are stronger than your '72 drum birfs. The birfs in the fj-60 axle (or mini-truck) are stronger yet. You can use the knuckles out on either shawn's or the fj-60. If you use the fj-60 axle, you have to pop the long side (IIRC) birf off and swap to your inner shaft--all the length difference is on one side or the other, so you can use one stock 60 axle shaft complete, the other you have to swap. you don't want to put the complete fj-60 axle underneath, it is too much work.

Thanks for the clarification about birdfield strength. After reading 1973Guppie's post on axle swaps a few times, I feel a lot more comfortable about an axle swap. However, I will PM Shawn and take him up on his offer. After spending the last three days consumed in MUDD threads, I will save the FJ60 axle swap for later and put the money saved toward getting the FJ40 in a state where I can go wheeling.
 
OME 2.5 Lift Install

Thanks to Dan (DanS HJ45) and Onur (Beno), we installed my OME 2.5" lift last Thursday; thanks guys for helping. I am creating a build thread and will post pics there. But here are the changes in height.

Increase of (in inches):
left front: 0.5
right front: 0.5
right rear: 2.5
left rear: 5.0

I ordered Poser's rear disk conversion parts: rotors, mounting plate, and tombstone tabs; for my rear disk brake conversion. Will find the calipers locally. Poser may have some fine spline birfs that I can put in Shawn's (BionicCruiser) 1977 front axle (FJ40) for my front disk brake conversion.
 
Why so little lift? Did you already have a lift of some sort? Looks like the rear gained the most benefit.

Glad you went with the Steve's bracket and parts. You won't be sorry. What are you doing for the brake lines? Call me before you purchase anything. I might also have a few extra birfields sitting around too. I know they will work, but don't remember the details. There is a length issue which might require Aisin hubs.
 
Pappy:

I do not know what is up with the lift numbers posted above. I measured from top of rim to bottom of fender. However, the overall difference, just by judging having to climb into the FJ40 and from the ground to the rocker panel (I have no idea what it is called but it is the panel that lies horizontal, is triangular in shape, can be used as a step, is just below the side doors; I think yours is painted black, Steve does not have one, blah blah) is approximately 3 to 4 inches.

About the birfs: if Poser has some fine splines laying around his shop he will include them in my order. Otherwise I will PM you. FYI: I have the Selectro hubs.
About the brake lines: there is a place down on 2nd street that can make some that will have the correct measurements, including the different diameter nuts (or whatever you call them, the end that screws into the brake). Sorry, just do not know the correct terminology yet. But as you stated, I will call you first to pick you brain.
 
About the brake lines: there is a place down on 2nd street that can make some that will have the correct measurements, including the different diameter nuts (or whatever you call them, the end that screws into the brake).
That's PECO and most us have used them for one thing or another. All you do is take in you old lines and say "I want a line with these ends that's 6 inches (or whatever) longer". They'll take the fittings off the old hose and braze on new ones with whatever spec hose you want. Just don't let the old guy behind the counter give any sh*t.
 
Andrew, the brake lines I have are stainless lines from Downey. They have the banjo fittings on one end and the 10mm flare on the other. They are for the rear and should work with your conversion. I wasn't able to use them because I went spring over.

You won't be able to use the Selectro hubs with the new birfields.
 
Pappy:

If you believe that the brake lines will work with my SUA, Poser's tombstone tabs, and Monte Carlo Calipers, I will buy them from you.
 

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