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- #361
Builds Just bought my 1st BJ42... never restored anything before, this should be interesting. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BjGirl
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I've taken to vinegar soaking parts for rust removal cus it's easy but it's hard on paint and it will destroy aluminum. Works amazing on bolts though. They need to be degreased first but you can turn a pile of junk into very usable stuff. I never throw away bolts as hardwear is pretty expensive. I use Pickering vinegar cus it a bit higher percentage of acid. Just get it from the grocery store. I'd like to make an electrolysis tank One day though.
A nurse I work with in the OR just had to have a chunk of metal drilled out from his eye. He said the distress of looking at a drill comming straight at his eye was only second to the pain he was feeling from the shard. It was just barely on the edge of his cornea. He's restoring his 67 beetle.
A nurse I work with in the OR just had to have a chunk of metal drilled out from his eye. He said the distress of looking at a drill comming straight at his eye was only second to the pain he was feeling from the shard. It was just barely on the edge of his cornea. He's restoring his 67 beetle.
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Its not a bad as it sounds. It's more like a small battery operated dental burr. It removes the rust ring. Don't we hate rust?
Hah! Pansy, I'll have to call him on it.
I was looking into a simple attachment to hook up to my pressure washer that acts like a sand blaster for the tub and frame. It's like 100$. It's pretty forgiving on sand quality as long as you screen chunks out if it. Harbor freight and places like that have them.
I was looking into a simple attachment to hook up to my pressure washer that acts like a sand blaster for the tub and frame. It's like 100$. It's pretty forgiving on sand quality as long as you screen chunks out if it. Harbor freight and places like that have them.
You can never have to much CFM when it comes to blasting. Our big blaster uses a 175 cfm unit which is a huge difference over the screw compressors. I use to bank teo IR T30 units into a 500 gal tank and it was ok but u still run out.
As far as dustless / aqua blasting the video above is wet blasting but with dry media and with a hose that long etc any moisture will clog it. I note they are using glass not sand for this reason. Garnet / wall nut / soda etc all the same get em wet get it stuck. If u want to do ur own wet blast I suggest making a slurry pot and using a diaphragm pump to push the slurry up to the ventury. This eliminates the need for keeping it dry and is much more effective, u can also regulate the flow and use a smaller presure washer.
I tried the Harbour Freight (HF) pressure washer blaster and was not impressed at all. Mixing water with it makes a huge mess and my reasonably sized gas pressure washer was very slow going. Fast forward to recent times and I now have two 5HP air compressors (old quality Gardner Denver and newish Ingersol Rand T30) each at 18 cfm. Having 36 CFM is actually enough to run a typical sand blast pressure pot from HF with the compressors only occasionally turning off. The best purchase I made for sandblasting is a full setup of the Bullard breathing air, compressor, hose, helmet etc. With that thing on your head (two layer face shield for safety) and ear plugs in you almost forget you are blasting. I do any parts I can in my cabinet, anything too big for that like hoods in a small tarp shelter. I also use 30-60 grit cruched glass mostly because my yard is small and it has less silica which causes silicosis. Having close neighbours makes it tough to blast at home. If you can find someone with reasonable charge rates and a machine small enough and level of care required to blast sheet metal then it is always good to take the parts to them. I got my tub roll cage and a few other big parts blasted for $400 even though I could have done it at home. It took them 2 hours. The big blasters will warp the sheet metal and ruin it. Last, air compressors are about 4 cfm/hp so that $1700 unit with two 3HP compressors is probably only 24 cfm (not 28) and in my opinion would be a great unit for home. It is annoying when you have to wait for the air to catch up while you work. Better to have the compressor cycle on and off. Have fun with the build.
myquestoyota
SILVER Star
We have, in our sawmill saw grinding shop, that the new diamond cutoff discs last so much longer than the resinoid ever shrinking cutting discs. A 4 1/2" disc that stays within your shield/guard lasts longer than trying as someone suggested using a 5 or 7 inch disc in a grinder designed for a 4 1/2 inch disc. With some intelligence you can usually use the guard in most places and you can also do what I have done and reduced the size of the guard to just protect my face while still using glasses and a full face shield where I can. I Have had 1" grinding wheels and 700 degree babbitt blow up in my face and respect the s*** that will prevent me from enjoying my eyesight and activities. An ounce of prevention.....
Enjoy the madness but row away from the rocks
Enjoy the madness but row away from the rocks
- Thread starter
- #370
So I’d be totally fine using that set up to blast sheet metal?
Make sure your careful of flash rust. Vinegar and wet blasting will cause this. Wet sand blaster pros use a solution to prevent this, not sure if the solution is readily available.
Food for thought. I use a blast cabinet for smaller parts, and outsource the bigger things. A lot less mess.
Food for thought. I use a blast cabinet for smaller parts, and outsource the bigger things. A lot less mess.
- Thread starter
- #372
I just found out that the compressor I am looking at has been converted from 3phase motors to single phase 220 volt motors.
The man said it like it was a good thing. I’ve been reading about it and everything I’m reading seems like the 3 phase is the more powerful and efficient.
Am I completely out to lunch here?
The man said it like it was a good thing. I’ve been reading about it and everything I’m reading seems like the 3 phase is the more powerful and efficient.
Am I completely out to lunch here?
- Thread starter
- #374
That’s what happened to my truck after I washed it!! I swore it looked worse after I washed it than before. Like the rust spread instantly!
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
That’s the right frame of mind ... just get the notion of any budget out of your mind right now ... because... you know you’ll not be able to stick to it
Nice progress btw ... don’t collect too much stuff however... you’ll make the cruiser hoarders angry at you encroaching on their territory lol
Don’t worry about those neighbors they will stay away... my perfect defense plan IS rust ... they are petrified to get anywhere close to my property out of fear of getting tetanus
Enjoy
If I clean up stuff with vinegar it does flash rust if you leave it out unprotected. Quite quickly too. If they are bolts that are going to be seen I dump them into a container filled with white gas until I paint them ( white gas is great at removing oils before paining) other wise if there just regular old bolts I leave them to soak in diesel to get it into the pores and dry them off later. Once oil seeps back into them they don't rust easily. Painted is better but who has time to paint bolts? Bahh.
Sort of out to lunch .. but not really
If you have 3 Phase you will love buying machinery for the simple reason most businesses don't shop second hand and most "home Shop Guys " don't have 3 phase so you are not competing with them and they usually spend more than stuff is worth as single phase quality is hard to come buy on the used market .
So by converting the 3 Phase to Single phase he has increased it's market appeal as more people can use it and as a seller that is a good things as it is if you only have single phase.
Being 3 Phase or Single Phase has little impact on the size and rating of the engine so he may have pulled a 3HP and Put a Single Phase 3 HP back on BUT usually this will see an increase in the amps needed to run it which isn't really a huge issue if you have a circuit that can handle it.
You said you had all the power you need to run stuff so I am guessing you have a 3 phase 200 AMP service or something similar which is AWESOME for you as you can buy real machinery much easier an cheaper than other.
Power is king, like CFM but it is only any good if you can use it and distribute it so just make sure if you are gunna start setting up a shop you pay attention to circuit loads and wire gauge etc. There is a very good reason I have a 400 AMP feed to my shop and 3 Sub Boards
- Thread starter
- #378
That’s a relief! I probably know less about electrical than anything else that I’ll be dealing with thru this process.Sort of out to lunch .. but not really
If you have 3 Phase you will love buying machinery for the simple reason most businesses don't shop second hand and most "home Shop Guys " don't have 3 phase so you are not competing with them and they usually spend more than stuff is worth as single phase quality is hard to come buy on the used market .
So by converting the 3 Phase to Single phase he has increased it's market appeal as more people can use it and as a seller that is a good things as it is if you only have single phase.
Being 3 Phase or Single Phase has little impact on the size and rating of the engine so he may have pulled a 3HP and Put a Single Phase 3 HP back on BUT usually this will see an increase in the amps needed to run it which isn't really a huge issue if you have a circuit that can handle it.
You said you had all the power you need to run stuff so I am guessing you have a 3 phase 200 AMP service or something similar which is AWESOME for you as you can buy real machinery much easier an cheaper than other.
Power is king, like CFM but it is only any good if you can use it and distribute it so just make sure if you are gunna start setting up a shop you pay attention to circuit loads and wire gauge etc. There is a very good reason I have a 400 AMP feed to my shop and 3 Sub Boards
I was worried that this was another axle debacle. Lol
- Thread starter
- #379
Haha! The kids alone are enough to keep the neighbors at bay with all the diseases they carry. Add tetanus on top of that, we will be seen as the neighborhood carrier monkeys.That’s the right frame of mind ... just get the notion of any budget out of your mind right now ... because... you know you’ll not be able to stick to it
Nice progress btw ... don’t collect too much stuff however... you’ll make the cruiser hoarders angry at you encroaching on their territory lol
Don’t worry about those neighbors they will stay away... my perfect defense plan IS rust ... they are petrified to get anywhere close to my property out of fear of getting tetanus
Enjoy
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
There are a few “how to” test compressor cfm’s on youtube. Hopefully you can see the thing run and double check cfm.
Having an Oxygen/Acetylene torch will come in handy. Kevin Caron has some good oxy torch pointers on youtube. You’ll want to heat every bolt you remove to glowing red in order to break the rust bond. A huge time eater can be snapped bolts, so take your time and work the bolts back and forth. If you don’t have metric taps, you’ll need some. Left handed drill bits are great for removing broken bolts. Be carefull using bolt extractors, they are hardened, thus brittle and snap easy.
Sounds like you will soon have the ability to run air tools. As you probably know, a moisture removal system is a must with air tools. An air grinder will be easier to grip and less weight than electric. If you do buy an electric angle grinder, try to find the slimest grip possible. A thicker grip grinder is more challenging to hold on to. Not talking about the handle(I removed mine), but the body of the grinder(motor housing) itself.
One of my favorite shop tools is a dremel. They have a flexible wand attachment that is very handy. The pink chainsaw sharpeng stone is tough and very handy, EZ lock cutting discs (two thumbs up), EZ lock “coarse”buffs, flap wheel, and wire brush.
Not sure if you’ll need a spot weld cutter, but if you do you’ll be glad you have one.
My first 40 came to me fully disassebled, bare tub, rolling chassis. Boxes upon boxes of parts. Thankfully the PO labeled all the small stuff. I highly recommend taking a bit of time to do that. As you unhook the harness label what goes where.
Having an Oxygen/Acetylene torch will come in handy. Kevin Caron has some good oxy torch pointers on youtube. You’ll want to heat every bolt you remove to glowing red in order to break the rust bond. A huge time eater can be snapped bolts, so take your time and work the bolts back and forth. If you don’t have metric taps, you’ll need some. Left handed drill bits are great for removing broken bolts. Be carefull using bolt extractors, they are hardened, thus brittle and snap easy.
Sounds like you will soon have the ability to run air tools. As you probably know, a moisture removal system is a must with air tools. An air grinder will be easier to grip and less weight than electric. If you do buy an electric angle grinder, try to find the slimest grip possible. A thicker grip grinder is more challenging to hold on to. Not talking about the handle(I removed mine), but the body of the grinder(motor housing) itself.
One of my favorite shop tools is a dremel. They have a flexible wand attachment that is very handy. The pink chainsaw sharpeng stone is tough and very handy, EZ lock cutting discs (two thumbs up), EZ lock “coarse”buffs, flap wheel, and wire brush.
Not sure if you’ll need a spot weld cutter, but if you do you’ll be glad you have one.
My first 40 came to me fully disassebled, bare tub, rolling chassis. Boxes upon boxes of parts. Thankfully the PO labeled all the small stuff. I highly recommend taking a bit of time to do that. As you unhook the harness label what goes where.
