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- #381
Great information!There are a few “how to” test compressor cfm’s on youtube. Hopefully you can see the thing run and double check cfm.
Having an Oxygen/Acetylene torch will come in handy. Kevin Caron has some good oxy torch pointers on youtube. You’ll want to heat every bolt you remove to glowing red in order to break the rust bond. A huge time eater can be snapped bolts, so take your time and work the bolts back and forth. If you don’t have metric taps, you’ll need some. Left handed drill bits are great for removing broken bolts. Be carefull using bolt extractors, they are hardened, thus brittle and snap easy.
Sounds like you will soon have the ability to run air tools. As you probably know, a moisture removal system is a must with air tools. An air grinder will be easier to grip and less weight than electric. If you do buy an electric angle grinder, try to find the slimest grip possible. A thicker grip grinder is more challenging to hold on to. Not talking about the handle(I removed mine), but the body of the grinder(motor housing) itself.
One of my favorite shop tools is a dremel. They have a flexible wand attachment that is very handy. The pink chainsaw sharpeng stone is tough and very handy, EZ lock cutting discs (two thumbs up), EZ lock “coarse”buffs, flap wheel, and wire brush.
Not sure if you’ll need a spot weld cutter, but if you do you’ll be glad you have one.
My first 40 came to me fully disassebled, bare tub, rolling chassis. Boxes upon boxes of parts. Thankfully the PO labeled all the small stuff. I highly recommend taking a bit of time to do that. As you unhook the harness label what goes where.
